For reloading 10mm and 45 Long Colt nickel brass, what type of crimp do you folks recommend using?
Thanks
For reloading 10mm and 45 Long Colt nickel brass, what type of crimp do you folks recommend using?
Thanks
For 10mm in any brass, use a taper crimp, and for .45 Colt in any brass, use a roll crimp.
Hope this helps.
Fred
What he said!Quote:
Originally Posted by ReloaderFred
I don't load either of those calibers, but I don't treat nickel brass any differently in regards to crimping. I trim brass that gets a roll crimp, and nice consistent crimps is the result.
Same as above in regards to crimp. My taper crimp cases seem to last a bit longer when compared to roll crimped nickel brass.
My 41 Mag nickel brass all split by the time I had less than 8-10 loadings on them with a bunch that split by the 3-4 firings. I contacted Starline and they didn't seem too shocked. This was years ago, but I haven't found any benefit with nickel (to me) besides looking oh so pretty.
Nickel brass is good if you're carrying your loaded rounds in leather belt loops, as it tends to retard verdigris. The same applies to dump pouches, but I'm talking old school here.
Some premium ammunition is loaded in nickel brass, along with some in black, etc. I know Jagman does the plating for Hornady, and some others, but Winchester and Remington I believe do their own plating. I don't know about Starline, but if I remember, I'll ask them in January at the SHOT Show. The ammunition companies seem to think that when you're paying over a dollar a round for their defense ammunition, it should be nickel plated. I think at those prices, it should be gold plated.....
Hope this helps.
Fred
treat it exactly the same as unplated brass.
Lee Factory Crimp dies for both.
I don't treat it any differently.
But I try to put the least flare and crimp possible to make cases last longer before they split.
Not sure why, but nickel plated cases don't seem to last as long as all brass ones do.
Thank you all very much for your help, I really appreciate it!
I'm going to order the Lee Factory crimp dies for all of them.
Autoloaders: Taper crimp;
Revolvers: Roll crimp.
That's how many roll
I'll toss in here and say what others have said ;
Taper Crimp for autoloaders that headspace on the case mouth (9mm, 45 ACP, 40 S&W, etc.)
Roll Crimp for revolver cartridges (38 Special, 44 Special, etc. )
Nickel plating has no significance regarding the type of crimp.
I will also say that nickel plated cases tend to split after fewer reloading cycles than plain brass cases.
Nickel plated casings are used to help reduce verdigris as stated above. The chemicals used to tan leather will accelerate the formation of verdigris and the nickel plating helps prevent that. It was a bigger problem back in the days of revolvers, leather gear, cartridge loops and dump pouches.
Nickel plated casings are also slightly slicker than plain brass and may feed slightly better in dirty chambers, another plus when used in self-defense applications.
Some people claim the nickel casings are easier to see, which may be an advantage for hunters that police up their spent casings.
Because nickel plated casings tend to endure fewer reloading cycles, I prefer using plain brass casings. However, I will utilize nickel casings when I encounter them. They are useful as a visual designator for certain loads.
Nickle plated cases in 45 Colt last longer if I use my steel sizing die and skip the carbide die.
A taper crimp also works better as does just using the roll crimp to remove the flare from the case neck.
I used to make the crimp so it looked like a steel band when I loaded the cases with 2400, or H110, or Win296.
I now have a 454 Casull to load that way for the planet wrecker loads. Of course these cases only last 3 or 4 loads and the rim's split, or they split right up the side when carbide sizing them.
The regular 45 Colt loads are hot enough for me these days.
And the steel dies without carbide if you can find some work best for case longevity and the same goes for the crimp die.
Always crimp and seat separately.
One more thing is trimming all the cases in the same batch to the same length so you can set your crimp die to just remove the case flare.
Cases that are all different lengths will never be as accurate shooting since the bullet pull will differ from case to case.
Another thing you can do is to anneal the case necks every three reloads to make the cases last also.
Lotta extra work to turn out quality ammo, but worth it to me.
All IMHO.
All the above certainly applies to brass cases as well and will help them to last longer as well.
Using the above methods, I have reloaded nickle plated cases till the nickle plating has worn off in some places.
You just have to learn to massage those cases gently, but firmly and you'll have a more favorable outcome.
Also, if you are a speed demon, load em hot, clench that tite crimp around the neck and run those cases thru those carbide dies and you'll be going thru cases like they were made of kleenex.
You pay your money, you make your choice.
There's nothing else really to say here, what everyone else said. Nickel plate has a shorter life span and taper for autos and roll for revolvers. All I got.
What happens if you use a taper crimp on revolver rounds?
Just curious.
You could get the bullet creeping forwards under recoil (In heavy loads anyways) resulting in the revolver locking up, which wouldn't be ideal.
Hi...
I always taper crimp autoloading pistol brass and roll crimp revolver brass. No special treatment for plain brass or nickel plated.
I have never had an issue with nickel plated brass splitting any quicker than plain brass, but then, I have only been reloading for about 35 years so I may not have enough experience.
To be truthful about the only handgun brass I have experienced splitting with is plain brass .45Colt and that is only after multiple reloads. Some of my .45Colt brass has been reloaded more than 10-15 times over the years. It doesn't appear to be specific to s particular brand of brass...really pretty random across Remington, Winchester, Hornady, Speer and probably a couple others in my bulk load general purpose brass supply.
Groo here
I have used a ton of nickle in many guns.
I tend to use brass for general shooting and nickle for SD ,hunting and special [read hot or heavy] loadings...[aka Groo monster maulers!!!]
The nickle stays slicker as as to load and unload easier.
As brass last for several [aka till they split, the primer gets loose, or you can't read the headstamp] I don't care how long nickle last.
Usually loose them first...
PS I have had squib and hangfires before [not fun!!!] so ALWAYS use heavy crimp..
Just as Saint Keith said to.....