Just got a new mould from rcbs. This thing is covered in some kind of sticky oil almost like cosmoline! Whats your preferred method of removing this junk?
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Just got a new mould from rcbs. This thing is covered in some kind of sticky oil almost like cosmoline! Whats your preferred method of removing this junk?
Brake cleaner from Autozone
I have used kerosene and solvents to remove most of the heavy oils in new moulds. Wash and scrub in a container then replace with fresh and repeat last a scrubbing in hot water and dish soap to remove any residues.
The first solvent removes most but is carrying enough that it leaves a film. The second solvent wash removes the left over residue then the dish soap wash removes the rest. This leaves the mould almost ready to use. Remember to lube the sprue plate and pins before using.
Dawn dish soap
Brake cleaner here too!!
CW
I use carberator cleaner. It isn't much different than brake cleaner, and run a Q-tip, and a old tooth brush around on it too.
I tend to avoid having carberator cleaner around the garage- it dissolves plastic. Brake cleaner doesn't.
Loren
When doing welding repairs on oil impregnated castings the only cleaning method that works every time (in my experience, passing x-ray inspections) is heat cycling above 250 degrees Fahrenheit followed by acetone cleaning. A minimum of two cleaning cycles, three is better.
Aluminum is worse for absorbing oil than steel.
Here is what I do. I wash my mold with hot water and dish soap. Then I cook the mold on my hot plate. Two heating cycles with a solvent wash before, in between, and after should work on all molds. It’s most likely overkill on steel molds unless there is a lot of oil and gunk in the threaded holes that can get into the cavities once the mold gets hot. So I do it to all molds I buy now. Of the ten molds that I’ve bought this year only one was ready to cast right out of the box.
Don’t start a fire. You have to let the mold cool a bit before introducing the solvent. If you can touch the mold with a bare hand it shouldn’t start a fire.
I’ve also heat cycled and used brake cleaner. It works.
I’ve also heat cycled and used denatured alcohol. It works.
I’ve also heat cycled and washed with soap and water two or three times. It works.
Lee molds also get Comet and a toothbrush, it gets the burrs off.
I also smoke aluminum molds the first few times I cast with them, after that they don’t seem to need it.
JM
Brake Cleaner or Acetone.
Always used brake cleaner and a toothbrush.............save the Dawn for dishes.
Winelover
Brake cleaner and/or acetone, scrubbing with a GI toothbrush, usually the acetone. Like it because it evaporates quickly.
I start with Dawn and hot water(not boiling) and a toothbrush. Since I use an electric tooth brush, I have a lot of used replacement brushes. Don't know if it is better but it is easier. Follow that with boiling water to make sure that all the moisture is gone.
I then spray it good with brake cleaner. I usually stock up when the local NAPA has a good sale. After this, I cycle in the toaster oven a couple of times. As mentioned, aluminum usually retains a little oil but it is gone in a couple of pours.
Dawn, hot water and a toothbrush then dried in a warm oven has worked for me.
Soaking the blocks in acetone will draw out most of the oil from machining .
I soak 12 - 24 hours ... after that you won't have to worry about heat driving more oil out from the pores the first time you cast .
I don't like water around my blocks...water just promotes rust and in Louisiana we have enough humidity in the air ... no sense adding more to the rusty mould problem .
Gary
Brake cleaner and an old tooth brush have worked for me.
Acetone.
1 Quart from a hardware store will last a long time. It's inexpensive, an excellent solvent (although you do need to be careful with the materials you expose to it) and it dries quickly with no film.
I use a small can of goof-off and Qtips
Brake clean and a toothbrush, followed by heating on a hot plate. Cool, then hot water and dish soap.