Want to use wc872 in a few different cartridges but have notice that many members are using a drop tube.
What are you making drops out of? and how long a tube would be needed, for say the 30/40 krag and 7x57 and maybe the 45/70.
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Want to use wc872 in a few different cartridges but have notice that many members are using a drop tube.
What are you making drops out of? and how long a tube would be needed, for say the 30/40 krag and 7x57 and maybe the 45/70.
I used some scrap wood and an old arrow shaft, with a funnel epoxy'd to the top to make my drop tube. Mine's about 24" and does what I need it to do for BP loading. The wood part is basically a [ shaped device, with holes drilled through the horizontal parts to slightly slip-fit the arrow shaft. That way I can move the shaft up and down and still have it stay where I put it.
Not high tech engineering.....just figure out how to mount a tube, any tube, that will fit in the case mouth of the cartridge you're loading. IMO, 24" is enough....others use longer.
I use drop tube for BP , why use it for smokeless ?
Edward -- With many powders, and loads not in the "compressed load" arena, I just drop charges with whichever measure I have at hand (e.g., Harrell, Ohaus, RCBS, and ubiquitous on 550b Dillons), but for some loads -- using these measures -- the powder charge drops a tad too high. Hence, if I use a drop tube, the combined velocity attained by dropped powder does in fact compress it enough to lower its height in case. I initially tried clear plastic tubing, but observed the static electricity "slowdown" did not provide a significant result. My older son had an old aluminum television antenna out for trash, and a few of the tubing-made elements followed me home. I only use the aluminum drop tubes made from the old antenna for a couple of loads -- but, it does afford noticeable compression.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward
geo
Thanks got it [smilie=s:Quote:
Originally Posted by georgerkahn
WC872 is a ball powder so I don’t think you will gain anything with a drop tube. Many smokeless powders don’t fill the case at a full charge so you wouldn’t gain anything there either.
The purpose of a drop tube is to get a little more powder in a case than you could just dispensing it from a measure, most commonly used with black powder, where some compression is common.
Wc872 is such a slow powder that loads for every cartridge I load must me compressed
Quote:
Originally Posted by brstevns
Ok, this is how I did it. Home depot had the aluminum tube, 3 foot. I used it as it came. Rcbs funnel fits it fine. No static at the top pour. Just made frame with wood, screws, clamps, ect. Take a look at a post I think I did on the projects thread about a year ago or so. All specifics there. This is the 1/2" outside diameter tube.
https://i.postimg.cc/HLBtC2T3/20180331_165556.jpg
I use soft copper tubing, it's easier to flare. Length of tube doesn't seem to matter as much as how slowly your pour the powder through the tube. 12 inch tubes work as well as longer tubes for me.
what size tube? 1/4 id ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Peabody
I have used WC872 in 30-40 Krag and 30-06. I use an electric pencil as a vibrator to settle the powder down.
Have fun,
JCherry
Electric pencil ?Quote:
Originally Posted by JCherry
Attachment 248927Quote:
Originally Posted by brstevns
My guess it IS an "electric pencil" -- like this Harbor Freight version, used to engrave, say, one's name on tools and similar.
geo
OK Got it.Quote:
Originally Posted by georgerkahn
Arrow shafts, brass hobby tubing, copper tubing, aluminum tubing all will work for a drop tube. I saw one made from glass medical / laboratory tubing once that was very nice. Online metals offers a lot of tubing's in 1 ft or longer lengths at some what reasonable prices. A wooden frame can be made from 1X 2 and or 1x4s. Pine will do but a hardwood is nicer and finishes out better. Another little trick with long tubes is set them up to overhang bench front and drop below 8-10" so you don't have to reach as high when dropping charges. It may allow you to stay seated and comfortably reach both ends.
A simple E frame with the tube sliding in holes in the upper to legs is all that's needed. On one with overhang a piece on the back of the E to clamp to bench is added. I also add a stop collar or o ring to the tube to limit travel. I have turned small funnel ends got the case end and a simple bushing for a gunnel on the top. The last I made I used a 300 wsm case with the head cut off. This set in the case mouth with the shoulder centering it. Works really well. A piece of 1/2 od tygon tubing 3/8" Id makes the bushing for the rcbs funnel in the top. A piece of this tubing makes a nice grip and limit stop for the tube also.
several things to do are
1) clean tube well before using. A cleaning rod and brush or cotton swab works well. I have even done a light polish on the inside of the tube.
2) polish outside of tube lightly for looks and to aid in sliding freely in frame. I drill the holes 1/4" large and use epoxy to make form fitted bushings in the frame. makes a nice free sliding fit with little play.
3). you can use a flaring tool to make the small funnel end if you have one work it slow and heat it some to get a good clean flare.
4) simple glued joints are strong enough but a couple dowel pins in them really look nice and add a lot of strength.
5) break all sharp edges and lightly bevel them. Not only for looks but for comfort also.