My ctg’s are creating tar on the cases make extraction difficult.

Not sure where to post my problem in the Lube area or here in BP Ctg.

My 45 Colt cartridges are creating dots of black tar like fouling on the outside of the cases. Cases have been annealed.
This tar substance is acting like glue on the cases making extraction very difficult and sometimes the cylinder must be removed and the stuck case pushed out with a wood dowel.
I’m loading 35 grs of GOEX 2fg and sometimes 35 grs of Old Eynsford 3 fg in Starline and Hornady cases.
My bullets are a RNFP from a SAECO mold # 955, they drop at ~264 gr.
I lube the bullet with homemade Emmerts Improved lube.
50% beeswax, 40% Crisco, 5% EVOO, 5% lanolin.

I shoot these handloads in 2 Ruger New Vaquero revolvers.
After about 3 to 4 full cylinders have been shot, the sticky extraction problem starts and gets worst if I continue firing and more tar accumulates. I’m sure the tar in also building up in the chambers but I can’t see it directly through the powder fouling lining the chambers walls.
Fired cases from my M1873 are not experiencing any sticky extraction but the rifle has a much bigger chamber. Fired cases from the M73 will only insert half way into all the Ruger chambers.

I don’t shoot enough smokeless powder to recall if I get this sticky extraction with this bullet & lube with smokeless.
I don’t know if it was just yesterday’s weather conditions, it was very hot and so were the Rugers.
Has something gone wrong with my lube?

The hot dry conditions may be contributing to this. Most BPCR shooters wipe with a damp patch between shots or blow tube to get added moisture in the barrels. Another may be you need a little more compression on the powder to get the cleanest burn from it. Last Im not familiar with that bullet but it just may not carry enough lube to do the job. A 1/16" grease cookie under it may help here.

Is the barrel fouling staying soft and greasy or is it hard crusty feeling also? What is evoo? I make and use Emmerts improved the only difference in our recipes is I use 5% canola oil and just a small drop of murphies oil soap. The fouling in my rifles stays soft and workable thru a string. If the evoo is a petroleum base it may be part of the problem

EVOO =. Extra Virgin Olive Oil. That’s what it says on the bottle I grabbed from kitchen.

That should be fine then. O should explain the Murphies oil soap also, I use a very small amount to help blend the ingredients together. By small I put a drop in a butter knife and let it spread the drip back into bottle what sticks to blade is all I use.

Just curious, what do you clean the cylinders with after a shooting session?

I clean the revolvers at the basement laundry tub, running water through the chambers and base pin holes. Bronze brush spun with a cordless drill and pumped back and forth till the water runs off clean. Dry with paper towel and oil with an oily patch push through the chambers.
Base pin hole gets the same brush treatment with a 26 cal. brush. Dawn dish detergent is squirted on all the parts an the brushes during cleaning.

Remove the grip panels, the frame and barrel go under the running water. A short cleaning rod and brush cleans the barrel. Bronze and plastic bristle weapons brush cleans inside the cylinder window and outside barrel and frame.

Water get shaken out of the frame lock work area and 99% alcohol is squirted into the lock area to collect water droplets inside. The alcohol gets well shaken out, frame is dried and oiled inside and out. Cylinder base pin and holes (frame & cyl) bushing surfaces (frame & cyl) get greased during assembling. Currently my gun oil of choice is Lubegard Universal Lubricant, and the grease is Rand H.A.W.G. Grease.

Next time I goto the range I am going to dry patch all the chambers to see if residual oil in the chambers is causing or contributing to the creation of the dots of tar that’s gluing my ctg. cases in the cylinders.

1 ... not enough lube
2 ... wrong oil after cleaning
3 ... as you surmised ... too much of the wrong oil left when shooting begins

In really dry conditions I have even lubed over the boolit after loading the revolver. This helps soften fouling as it gets shoved up the bore in front of the boolit.

I am not familiar with your boolit either ... maybe it is lacking enough lube as mentioned above. Try rectifying one thing at a time to discover the problem .

Another thing might be happening as well. If the boolit is small in diameter ... it is not sealing the bore ... thusely not enough pressure to obturate the case so as to seal the case mouth to the cylinder wall.

Might fall back on a known black powder lube like SPG. Ballistol straight does a pretty good job of oiling after cleaning AND is compatible with black powder. .454 inch boolits will seal most revolvers even if they call for .452 inch.

Check your cylinder chambers for roundness and tight spots as well as smoothness.

Good luck ... please do report your progress .. both success's and failures. This is what helps others out.