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Well I bought one multiple years ago and fired 1 shot. I didnt want to lose the brass since it flung it across the world. I later realised that without the rubber(?) buffer behind the recoil spring that I could damage something.
I really want to change it, but I saw videos and people are seriously struggling to get the big spring back in. Do you guys have any easy way to align everything?
There is a member here named Battis... shoot him a PM, if anybody here knows... he knows. He has quite a few of the WSL's.
I still have a space in between the washer and receiver. Some people say the Buffer is still good if there's a space so im not sure what to do...
https://i.imgur.com/RI2wSMR.jpg
Kev, get a copy of this book, there are illustrations and directions to make most tools from hardware store materials in this book. I have it somewhere, I looked but cant find it. Lot of good info in there:
https://www.forgottenweapons.com/boo...g-351-caliber/
Here's a link to a thread on this forum that describes a method to change the buffer. I like the idea of a pin in the end of the rod better than the nut that I used but either will work.
If you can pull back the spring in your gun enough to inspect the buffer, just make sure it's intact and not crumbled. But, there's no telling just how strong the spring still is. Wolff Springs has the springs for the .35 and .351. Numrich sells (or used to) the buffers.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Recoil-Spring
I bought Speckin's book on the rifle and actually spoke with him on the phone before I changed my first buffer. His method works in the .32, .35 and .351 but not in the .401. Basically his method involves pulling the spring back with a pronged tool made from a fork as you force it in, but I think the method of preloading the bolt and spring is closer to the original factory method.
If you have any problems, let me know.
Thanks I lread the whole thing. I can imagine having the forked too would be alot of help. If I would see one Id try to make a homemade version.