1/4" racheting wrench to replace Chapman wrench on Lyman lube/sizer

StuBach placed a post in S&S with the suggestion for using a 1/4" ratcheting box wrench in place of the regular wrench in case it is lost. Heck! I never would have thought of it, but I'm going to get one for the advantage of the extra leverage, as the short stock wrenches hurt my getting older hands after a lubing session with my larger boolits. I'll bet the extra leverage gained will be great for me!

I would have mentioned this in S&S, but can't discuss there...

YMMV, but I just thought I'd post this over here. Hopefully with StuBach's permission. His idea to replace, but I really like the idea of the added leverage. I'll pad the open end of the wrench. Looks like StuBach has given me the answer to a question I never asked!

I’m glad the idea has helped others and I’m pretty sure this is public forum so always feel free to share any ideas posted here.

As a fun side note to the idea, if you have the Chapman screwdriver sets, those bits can be used in one of these wrenches to reach hard to reach screws.

The chapman handle is not very ergonomic for any extended use.. I've been pondering on epoxying a wooden ball bout the size of a golf ball on the end. You might consider doing that to yours or lopping off the open end and doing it to the wrench.

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Originally Posted by Bazoo

The chapman handle is not very ergonomic for any extended use.. I've been pondering on epoxying a wooden ball bout the size of a golf ball on the end. You might consider doing that to yours or lopping off the open end and doing it to the wrench.

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Great idea about the wood ball. Now, to get the wrench and the ball...

This is definitely a place where there is room for personal preference. I enjoy using the original, but a friend of mine wanted to go fancy so he turned up a nice wooden handle for a Snap-On 1/4" ratchet to power his. Of course his inspiration may have been the original Ideal Lube-Sizer with its non-ratcheting wrench with wooden handle... now that's classy! :cool:

Froggie

1/4" racheting wrench is indeed handy tool. I have used mine to turn screw driver bits and allen bits that fit in a 1/4" bit holders in tight places.

On the stock wrench, could you add a length of PVC tubing on the handle?
You can make the tubing as long or as large as you want. If the tubing size you want to use is much larger than the handle, just wrap with tape till the tubing is a snug fit.
If your handy with tools you can get wooden dowels. Drill a hole just a bit bigger than the handle of the wrench then glue the dowel on the wrench.
It's not hard to file and sand the dowel to look how you want it. Once you get it where you like it, finish it.
Leo

The older gent I got my lyman 450 from put a piece of rubber hose over the handel of the stock wrench.Makes it nice and fat eazy on the hand.i have several 450s now I use the same wrench on al of them.

I've used the original but also found it is tough on the hand when doing large quantities of bullets. Went with a cheap 1/4 drive ratchet wrench with a socket. Easier on the hand and good leverage to reduce the force needed to turn the handle. Garage sales and flea markets are your friend for items like this.

I use a mini 1/4" breaker bar (non ratcheting) with a 1/4" socket. I like to back off the pressure nut after lubing. This method of course requires lifting and replacing the socket every 3rd or 4th boolit. Zero stress on your hand and not really an inconvenience.

I use a "Maxcraft" 1/4" drive dual socket bit driver mini ratchet, it has a comfy rubber coated handle, found it years ago for $6 on Amazon or fleabay?

https://kk.org/cooltools/14-inch-dua...atchet-driver/

You can buy the wrenches direct from CHAPMAN TOOL, Online.

Since I bought a Lyman Heater when they came out, 20+yrs ago, I've never had a problem. Use White Label Lube BAC.

[smilie=s: Still have the original Chapman wrench that came with my Lyman back in the late 60`s.Works great too.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

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Originally Posted by BudRow

I use a mini 1/4" breaker bar (non ratcheting) with a 1/4" socket. I like to back off the pressure nut after lubing. This method of course requires lifting and replacing the socket every 3rd or 4th boolit. Zero stress on your hand and not really an inconvenience.

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Interesting that your post goes UN-noted. Backing pressure off between bullets prevents the lube from getting under the bullets base. Sounds slower but is faster overall.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BudRow

I use a mini 1/4" breaker bar (non ratcheting) with a 1/4" socket. I like to back off the pressure nut after lubing. This method of course requires lifting and replacing the socket every 3rd or 4th boolit. Zero stress on your hand and not really an inconvenience.

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This is my preference as well. I use a 1/4" box-end wrench in place of the ratcheting wrench that came with my 450/4500 machines. LSS Carnauba Red is in the 4500, 50/50 Alox/BW in the 450. Both lubes flow easily when warmed to temps they like. Both expand significantly when warmed, too--so back that pressure screw off a bunch when you stop a 'run' of bullet-sizing, or you will have an unholy mess to clean up when you re-warm the machine. Don't ask how I learned this.
:-)

ETA--Chill Wills is EXACTLY RIGHT concerning lubed bullet bases, too. I squeeze in the lube, then back off the pressure about 1/3 turn after each bullet. Much less mess.

Over the years I’ve seen about 2-3 wrenches that were color case hardened... it seems like they were even marked Ideal instead of Chapman. That’s kinda classy. ;)

Froggie