What is the recommended weight hammer and trigger return spring for a better DA pull on a GP 1OO?
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What is the recommended weight hammer and trigger return spring for a better DA pull on a GP 1OO?
My standard recommendation on DA Rugers is to tear down per the manual, flush the guts out, over-lube them with CLP, run it hard for a while, reflush, sensibly lube, and enjoy a near-Python-like trigger; in short, just take a little extra care in breaking in the stock gun. Been there, done that on GP's, SP's, and Redhawks and dig the results.
I bought a Wilson spring kit from Midway when I ordered my GP100 a few months ago. I used the 10 pound springs for both the hammer and trigger return. Much nicer DA trigger pull than with the stock springs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumbcocker
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Sorry I can't answer. There used to be a Ruger trigger tutorial on the web, but it may not be available anymore. Look for GP100 Book of Knowledge.
Mine has stock springs, couple thousand rounds in and everyone who tries it comments on how nice the trigger is. Never had any light strikes either!
+1 on the Wilson spring kit, I’ve found that going with the heaviest trigger spring in the kit significantly impending the DA pull, changing the hammer spring was more difficult and had zero impact. A good cleaning will actively make a big difference, just be careful of all the detent springs in the trigger group, they like to fly off into hard to reach locations
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I changed the hammer spring on my GP with a Wolff 10#er and it made a significant difference in trigger pull. I left the return spring stock as I like a quick reset. I tried the 9# hammer spring but had light strikes so moved up to the ten and it has been 100%. The hammer spring is an easy job.
I think you'll find that different guns respond differently. I Have the 3" SS & the 5" blue model in .44 spec.
One does fine with the 10# hammer spring, but the other required the 11# to be 100% reliable in DA mode.
Check out triggershims.com : they have kit with 3 different strength hammer springs (that's what I did on the last one). I used the original trigger spring & like it.
BTW their hammer & hammer dog shims help also after you get the springs sorted.
Henry
I got one of the spring kits with three mainsprings of different amounts. I don't remember the exact amounts. I first tried the lightest one. It failed to ignite the primer 1 to 3 times per 100 rounds. I replaced it with the middle spring (the next higher amount) and it worked perfectly. It was still a good deal lighter than the factory spring.
Depends on the gun. I got the 3 spring pack and the lightest spring would misfire about once per every 6-12 rounds. Tried the middle spring and it worked 98% of the time. I tried the heaviest spring worked 100%, and its still lighter than factory. This is firing double action.
Firing single action the lightest spring worked most of the time and probably 100% with the middle spring but I shoot DA 50% of the time or more.
I also use the hammer shims to prevent the hammer from rubbing the frame. This helps with both the trigger pull and prevents the hammer from loosing energy before hittign the firing pin.
I typically use the lightest trigger return springs on Ruger's, S&W's or otherwise without any problems.
I bought the Wolf spring kit when mine was new.
I replaced the factory hammer spring with the lightest one in the kit.
I left the trigger spring alone.
I dryfire alot.
I shoot in DA mostly as the trigger is light & easy to stage.
About a year ago, I bought a used (like new) 4" SS GP-100. It has the worst trigger of any (respected manufacturer) revolver I've ever owned. I've had a few guns in the past that I had a gunsmith do trigger/action jobs too. It's usually around $100. I just don't want to put that much into this pistol.
After I read this thread, I got the impression all you fellas did this spring swap yourself?
So, I searched out a few youtube vids, The GP-100 looks easy to do a spring swap. I think I'll give it a try.
Also, I have a couple N Frames that could use a lighter trigger as well. I also seen a unedited 10 minute youtube vid by Jerry Miculek doing a springs swap on a Model 10...that's all it took him, was 10 minutes...He does gunsmithin' as fast as he shoots, LOL. He made it look so easy, I may try to do those N frames myself also.
Anyone have any hints on Shimming?
The triggershim.com site explains everything very well. All you need is a good set of feeler gauges (+ your normal pin pinches & good screwdriver set)
On the S&W the trigger return spring renders the best improvement (I suggest leaving main spring as is on S&W & tighten it all the way). Some loosen the strain screw on the main spring to get a lighter pull, but this is a prelude to a misfire.
My .02 worth.
Henry
+1 for TriggerShims.Com - they are great people to deal with.
I've put a lot of springs in GP-100's and SP101's over the years. Any spring replacement in a GP-100 needs to be accompanied by some judicious polishing of a few key components.
The factory hammer spring for a GP-100 is 14# (the very early GP-100's were even heavier) and the factory trigger return spring is 12#
You can drop the hammer spring down to about 12lbs without doing anything else. If you clean up the action and polish a few key parts, you can go down to a 10lb hammer spring and still have reliable functioning BUT, there's a price to be paid.
The lower weight hammer spring will increase lock time. So, I think a better route is to clean up the action, add trigger shims if needed and only drop the hammer by a couple of pounds. A 12lb spring with a slick action will feel lighter than 12 lbs.
The trigger return spring and hammer spring both contribute to the DA pull weight and those springs work in conjunction with each other.
The reduced power hammer springs come in 12, 10 & 9 pound rates and the reduced power trigger return springs come in 10 & 8 pound ratings. I like a fast and positive trigger reset and I'm reluctant to reduce the trigger return spring below 10 lbs and often I'll just leave the factory trigger return spring in place. That depends on the individual gun and individual user preference.
" Some loosen the strain screw on the main spring "
Many years ago, on a model 57 that I ended up selling, that gun's strain screw would loosen after a box of ammo was fired. The first time it did that, was also the first time I had it at the range, I thought to myself as I was shooting, why is the trigger pull getting easier? and that I thought, What's the deal, "click" ...and NO bang. It turns out that someone "shortened" the strain screw on that gun. There is lots more to this story, I am too embarrassed to tell, but I was just a kid back then and didn't know much about how revolvers worked. Anyway, after a bunch of hullabaloo, I had a gunsmith replace the strain screw, I guess he applied some removable thread locker, as the threads in the frame were worn.
Thanks for the advice about the main spring on the S&W, that'll save me a few $.
This is some great info, Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrol & Powder
I see on the Wolff website they have a 11 lb reduced power hammer spring for the GP100. I only mention it, as after a bunch of reading and youtube watching, I was thinking that is the one I'd order, along with a 10lb reduced power trigger return spring.