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I'm about to start reloading 40 S&W and would like suggestions on crimping. I have not had good luck with the Lee FCD for handgun rounds. I just purchased the Lee Deluxe die set here because it was cheaper than ordering the three die set but I don't mind ordering a crimp die if I need to. I have seen posts where people have removed the carbide ring on the FCD and had success. What works best for you? Thanks!
Your Lee might work out, give it a chance. I like the Profile crimp die that Redding sells. james
Use the Lee taper crimp die. I use it on all my .380, 9mm, .40 S&W, 10mm, and .45 ACP. The FCD often swages down cast bullets.
Taper crimp die here too. Works great and very easy to set up.
This one Rattlesnake Charlie and flashhole?
https://www.titanreloading.com/40-sw...=taper%20crimp
That will work fine. I have the Redding equivalent.
I use RCBC 40 S&W dies with a taper crimp seater die. I first seat the bullets, then back off the seater stem, and run the die down to apply the proper taper crimp. Then they are run through a gauge.
I use the Hornady Series II dies with the Hornady taper crimp die for 40 S&W on a 550 with great results. I really like the floating bullet alignment sleeve one the Hornady dies and have been replacing Dillon dies with the Hornady.
I use a RCBS die set, but crimp with a Redding profile crimp.
Redding doesn't make profile crimp die for the 40 s&w.Quote:
Originally Posted by LabGuy
The "profile crimp" die is used to make a roll type crimp. You need a crimp groove for that.
They do make a taper crimp die.
I use a Dillon taper crimp die. Works great.
The die in the link is described as a collet crimp die, but the description also states it "squeezes the case mouth into the crimp groove"(?. Do your 40 S&W bullets have a crimp groove/cannalure?). Prolly will work , but a simple taper crimp die will suffice. You prolly have a seating/crimping die in your set, you just have to reset the die after seating the bullets...
FWIW, my semi-auto reloads don't get a "crimp", I just straighten out any taper in the case mouth enough to pass the plunk test...
Thanks guys, this is an awesome forum, so many helpful people here!
I use the FCD to iron out 40 S&W cases before reloading. My SDB has a separate crimping station the works fine for me.
I also use the LEE Taper Crimp die for 40 S&W - never had a problem with it.
Most of the posts complaining about Lee FCD are about bullets being swaged down in straight walled cases. The .40 tapers enough to prevent this.
As far as I know the .40 S&W is a straight wall case the 9mm has a taper.
Yep, I just wasn’t thinking clearly!Quote:
Originally Posted by Valley-Shooter
I use the lee taper crimp die (not fcd)
I have four 40 S&W/10mm taper crimp dies. RCBS and Lyman. Both work equally well, but the RCBS is has a better finish. I have Redding and Hornady too in other cartridges. Whatever is on sale, though. I don't care for the Lee taper crimp dies. It is a quality thing. My experience with Lee is a rough finish that abrades the case mouths. I seat in station 4 of my press and taper crimp in station 5.
A taper crimp die is the right tool for 40 S&W ammo. Use it to just iron out the flair/bell. You don't want to turn in the case mouth into the bullet. A lot of misunderstanding about this.
The post sizing ring in a Lee Carbide FCD is a concept that I have never warmed up to.
And was said earlier, roll crimp or profile crimp is not suitable for this cartridge except for the rare cases of loading bullets with a cannelure/crimp groove and shot out of a revolver.