Two lube sizers, how to set up?

Gents,

I have two lube/sizers, a RCBS Lube-a-matic ( You have to love that name... ) and a Lyman 45.

These were given to me by an elderly club member who is giving up the sport and as such came with the RCBS full Lyman 50/50 lube and the Lyman full of RCBS green lube ( I think it's the non Alox based indoor one) for some reason... :D

I would like to load subsonic hunting HPs and a mid range ( up to 600 yards say) target load for my 308, 38 special target bullets for indoor practice and 45 colt/454Casull for range use and hunting respectively.

I am guessing that the RCBS green lube is the best for the subsonic 308 and the 38/45 target rounds and the Alox would be best for the supersonic 308 target load but would appreciate confirmation as I am rather new to all of this.

How best to manage the H&L dies though?

Boil them off before swapping back and forth between lubes or buy a H&L die dedicated to each load?

I would buy a die dedicated to each lube, since you are doing the same caliber at different speeds that you feel can't use the same lube. You'll soon get tired of boiling the die out each time, and an extra die or two isn't a big expense in the long run. If you find that you can use just one die, they usually resale very well.

I don't know if I can use the same Mr Beagle, I am very new to this.

I have some hazily held notions that the Alox is "good to 2200 fps" and that the RCBS green lube is "for indoor shooting where the smoke of Alox based lubes would be objectionable" but I haven't tried these things out for myself and so I am very open to guidance. :)

I do know that boiling dies out is the work of the very devil however, it has cost my good lady one saucepan and myself a fearsome bollocking in connection with the same and so I'm not doing that again... :D

Would the Alox work on with the subsonic 308 load? I could dedicate the 0.310" sizing die to 50/50 if it would.

Someone will be along soon who can help you with those questions. I don't use those lubes mentioned. Best of luck on it though!

Thank you for your help in any event. :drinks:

I'm thinking the green lube could be my TAC 1 lube. Softer lube, no nasty smell, low toxicity, not real sticky, slightly brighter than olive drab. Use it you'll love it.
RCBS lube is separated into pistol and rifle..Don't use the rifle lube indoors

I got some of the RCBS green lube (No. 80008) when I bought my LAM2. I checked in to it at that time and found that it is a beeswax/parrafin mixture and is for low velocity pistol loads. You can use it for your subsonic (under 1000fps) rifle and pistol loads.

Cleaning the dies is not hard. Take them out of the sizer, wipe off with WD40, remove the center punch, use a pipe cleaner to poke the lube out of the holes, and finally clean out the center hole with more WD40. No need to boil them out.

When the pressure nut bottoms out there is still plenty of lube in the sizer. If you are reloading with the same type of lube this is no problem. If you are putting in a different type of lube you will get old lube for a short while, then a mixture of old and new lube, and finally all new lube. It can be 300 -400 boolets before it is all new lube.

I would think abouit keeping the Lyman 45 for softer lubes like the Lyman 50/50 or white label BAC or Randy's TAC and use the RCBS for harder lubes like Carnuba Red for the high velocity loads even though you might need a heater for it.

I agree with C.F. , in my opinion one fer soft(pistol) and one fer hard( rifle). It works fer me. I just pop out the sizers and swap as nessary. Deals on lube sizer dies pop up here often so you might want a dedicated lube sizer die.
Good luck and enjoy the lubbers. Making your own lube will be something you might toy with later on. Another fun part of castin n reloading.

Mike

if all you have is the tubes full of lube and no more, then just using what you have and replacing them with one single lube would be how I would handle it.

that one lube would be modified for the 50-100* days and the other sizer would have it modified for the below 50* days.
you'll find that arrangement to be more than sufficient as time goes by.

I would find a lube that works for the faster of the 2 and rub it in both. Remember a sizer heater is a must with the 45. They have a habbet cracking at the die set screw

I have my black powder/pistol lube in one and my rifle (except BP) in the other.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by C.F.Plinker

SNIP...

Cleaning the dies is not hard. Take them out of the sizer, wipe off with WD40, remove the center punch, use a pipe cleaner to poke the lube out of the holes, and finally clean out the center hole with more WD40. No need to boil them out.

---

A heatgun melts the lube nicely so WD40 or similar solvent (like mineral spirits) isn't necessary.

I'm not familiar with the RCBS green lube, but I'd think it will work well for your 38 & 45 pistol ammo...as almost anything works with those low pressure rounds.

The Lyman 50-50 will work for the 30 cal rifle boolits, surely up to 2000fps...and maybe beyond, but you may have other issues (with speeds beyond that) besides lube.

Thanks all, much useful and practical information to chew over.

I think that dedicating a luber to a type of lube is a good idea to the extent where it seems worth having one machine per lube used; this then begs the question how many lubes does a man need... :D

Would it be an idea to use up or boil out the alox 50/50 lube and replace it with Lars' carubara red ( I have a heater) to cover all HV rifle and carbine work and something like this RCBS green ( I am very open to alternative suggestions) for the low velocity stuff, especially as cleaning the dies out with heat gun and wd40 is a lot easier than boiling the buggers out...?

Thanks for the help chaps.

Here's what I know.

When I acquired my Lyman 45 (Thanks George !), it was full of some sort of black, sticky lube. I cleaned it out, but didn't boil anything - I used a heat gun.

You may be surprised at how little heat it takes to get the lube to just flow out. Do it over an old can, or other disposable receptacle, or save it to use as flux when rendering lead (that's what I did). The rest of the sheen of lube can be wiped out. whatever you can't reach isn't going to bother anything.

Not boiling also saves whatever paint is still on the old machines, saving you another step.

As for cleaning the dies - heat gun, and wipe it off. Some pipe cleaners for the holes. Done - with no flack from The Queen.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Lord Flashheart

I think that dedicating a luber to a type of lube is a good idea to the extent where it seems worth having one machine per lube used; this then begs the question how many lubes does a man need... :D

---

I'm not sure. I will let you know when I get there [emoji23]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/...d9677e26_o.jpg

You should be able to push most of the old lube out. Remove the die and turn the pressure screw all the way down. There will be some residual left over but it will be minor. Here's how it comes out w/ the die removed.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/...6620707b_o.jpg

Snap! :D

I got a box full of bits from the old fellow who retired from shooting and they had been in his garden shed for some time...

Attachment 206961

The Lube-A-Matic ( name still makes me giggle) was even worse:

Attachment 206962
Attachment 206964
Attachment 206963

I didn't manage quite as nice a job as you of cleaning them up but did swear a mighty oath on all that is holy not to boil one out ever, never ever, again... :D

Attachment 206965
Attachment 206966

I'm going to have to sand blast and paint the bugger now because of you, you've put me to shame... :D