Patching well into ogive area.

I often wonder? patching higher/taller beyond whats needed at barrels rifling opening. Any plus's or draw backs in doing?

What troublesome situation/s can such a longer wrap (up onto a boolits ogive) cause?

I observed a few individuals pix's here & there on the web wrapping their cast very tall and wondered if such paper extended wrapping has a possibility to cause unwanted problems at muzzle and down range.

I have recovered patches that have not cut through on the ogive wrap. Good or bad? I don't know. On the other hand, I have a particular boolit in a particular alloy that shows distinct bore contact forward of the patch even though the patch wrapped slightly over the ogive. It turns out that this is being caused by boolit swaging in the bore. I would thing the nose did not simply squeeze forward due to the acceleration but the patch was being squeezed into the boolit and the nose bit expanded into the bore.

I have always been told that if the rifling isn`t engaging the patch as it goes down the bore, don`t have hopes it will `confetti` away at the muzzle. My patch work is set to just below where the ogive starts.Robert

All of mine are patched over the ogive to prevent any possibility of lead-to-barrel contact. These patches get blasted off the boolit very handily and I've never noticed a downside to this practice. Early in my patching experience, I had some with less coverage up front and too soft an alloy, resulting in sufficient obturation that lead did contact the bore. Not enough to cause problems apparently, but I didn't need lead deposits fouling the bore in front of the patches, so I patch them long. One thing this will affect is seating depth. Some folks leave part of a bore-riding nose exposed as a method to meet their seating depth requirements. To patch them longer will mean earlier rifling contact and some details will need adjustment for comfortable chambering. Patching over the ogive can have a very positive effect on some designs like military style spitzers. The noses are often too long to be able to get accuracy beyond modest velocities because the nose is an unsupported mass prone to deforming unevenly when fired. Patching them farther up the ogive increases the engaged length of the casting, effectively shortening the unsupported length of the nose, hence allowing accuracy at greater velocities. I have an old H&G mold which casts a copy of the 173gr US 30 cal FMJ. It looks like the Ferrari of cast boolits, but that long slender nose never did very well with anything but tame loads, even when cast of linotype. Once I started paper patching, it has become a favorite in the 8x57. Cast of quenched WW, patched to .327-.328, sized .325 and backed by 48gr of Rel 15, it will do 2.5-3" at 100 yards out of a Yugo M-48, even with those odd sights on there.

I always patched to the ogive but no further until I bought a 500No.2 double rifle that came with some patched boolits and loaded rounds with the patches well past the ogive.
They shot so well, I am now of the opinion that it only really matters at long ranges, say, past 300yds.
I would say that if the possibility of not making the patch confetti is of concern, just make a few longitudinal slits in the patch leading edge with an exacto knife.
In fact, a boolit fully enclosed in a paper patch tube would surely shed its patch if there were a few relief slits in the leading edge. Then there would be zero possibility of the lead touching the bore.
May need to try that myself.

I tend to patch over the orgive enough that the wrapped paper is of bore diameter or a bees willy smaller.
I was getting some leading and I figure it was the patch was being pushed back bunching up sometimes being caught in the leading rifling.
I tried to taper it by a single wrap with a gap then the second wrap longer to seal it.
Some long nosed bullets of the bore riding type were the culprit.
Seem to come off easy though at the muzzle.
But it may be a good excuse for my odd flyers anyway.

But mostly I found if the paper doesn't shrink and tighten up real neat on the nose then you can get the ripped fingernail snaggy effect on the way into the starting block.

I think the need for nice, even slicing of the patch by the rifling can be exaggerated. I have seen a .308 jacketed bullet crushed hard against a .312 groove barrel by centrifugal force, enough for the rifling to be engraved to full depth on one side and stripped on the other. Lead and copper are a lot heavier than paper, but that resulted from getting a couple of thousandths off-centre, and the patch is about .2 in.

I think it would shed satisfactorily just by tearing. Slitting it on the ogive is likely to cause it to be shed and jammed between still-accelerating bullet long before the muzzle, and perhaps more on one side than the other.

In fact that might happen even without slits, if the ogive doesn't upset enough to trap it like the cylindrical part of the patch. I'd only do it if bullet expansion causes lead to touch steel. It is worth recovering a fired bullet to find out whether you have rifling engraving forward of where the patch was. I have an excavated Martini-Henry bullet which feels softer to the thumbnail than it ought to be, and you can see the imprint of the front end of the patch running across the grooves.

One of my patched boolits with the patch ending at the nose cone start ended up with the patch squishing the core forward and out to contact the bore.

https://s19.postimg.org/7wwsih2bj/SM...UMP_UP_003.jpghttps://s19.postimg.org/rc7kbkvlr/ca..._tests_008.jpghttps://s19.postimg.org/ti1v62z27/SM...UMP_UP_011.jpg

Nose damage on impact is obvious but the expansion in front of the patch can be seen to have occurred within the bore. I have others pics somewhere in which the bore contact is clearly visible. This does not happen with harder alloys though.

Patching to the Ogive changes my COL. I have a tight short throated Savage Axis. Patching to the driving band allows me to keep the same COL and has not affected anything. I have patched to the ogive and the boollits looked pretty but the seating depth put the boollit to deep into the case. I paper patch .270 Winchester.

I use too patch where as all the overlapped edges were square and equal to the first wraps leading edge and lay the patch quite away's higher into the bullets ogive. Don't follow that procedure anymore. Leading patch edges are now all {slightly staggered} from each other and patched to where the leading patch edge barely touch's its rifling. Such staggered edged patching seems to funnel its patch into its rifling which initiate full shred at muzzles end.

On the other hand.
I found patching higher into ogive area to accommodate a patches {forced} starting. Undoubtely left a forward band of patch paper that doesn't ride the bore and didn't shred into confiti by muzzle end as well as I would to see. I'm pretty sure those older rifles that shot patched well had a longer tapered chamber to rifling match. Quite unlike todays chamber and much shorter forcing cone with abrupt ending at rifling.