Really Really dumb thought...

I sprayed my drywall screws with Dillon case lube just to see if they drove easier... I 'thought' they did.... Anyone else try this?

Maybe wax is better?

PS...I didn't know where to put this so.......

Yes, lube helps a lot --- I use bee's wax -- I have also used plain bar soap -- I expect any lube would help - oil may be a bit messy though --
my ha-penny
I should add I use both dry wall and construction screw for all sorts of wood projects --

Don't get any on the screw head if you plan to paint or otherwise finish the final project. I have just always used wax on the threads. I have used soap in the past also.

Over the years in construction & and particularly as a finish trim carpenter, I used toilet rings wax on my screws that I was putting into hardwoods. I just stuck the screw tips into the ring when I thought they would be needed to be lubed. (Not all situations required the lube.) Never lubed any other screws, to be put into softwoods, including many gypsum board screws(sheetrock screws), with only the exception of end grains/end of board situations..

{Personally if I am just putting up gypsum board/sheetrock ("sheetrock" is a brand) I am not gonna waste the time. "Time is money", when it comes to installing the stuff & one more step + the additional cost of lube doesn't warrant the lubing of the screws. Maybe for a little project to humor yourself it is OK & suit yourself. But if you are doing la large project like "Sheetrocking" a home or a basement, I think you are "peeing in the wind" doing it. LOL}

There is a lot to be said about fine & course threads, length of the screws, wood density & thickness, going with the grain or not, pilot holes or not, etc.. It is really gonna depend on the project you are undertaking. If ya want to be "safe" use the lube. If you are finishing up an expensive project, like perhaps assembling hardwood cabinet(s), or attaching hardwood stair components together, then it is wise to use lube. With any end grain/"end of board" fastening, it is usually a good idea. ( So are pilot holes to prevent splitting. ;) ) Hanging a shelf on a wall though, for example, it would not be necessary, nor putting up a towel rack, since you are usually attaching to a softwood like SYP, etc.

( Although some newer homes are using "gluelam" type studs now a days & older homes may have used oak, elm, whatever hardwoods as studs. Gluelams I do not like as I am old fashioned & there isn't really a grain to them , as is OSB, they are basically the same thing. And if the studs are hardwoods as in an old home, you will know right away when ya try to fasten & will likely need both the lube & pilot holed drilled to fasten screws or nails. ;) )

I could go on with more specifics, but suffice to say that using it all the time won't hurt, but it is not needed in many applications & in softwoods rarely needed.

Maybe I wasted my time trying to type this out, but I wanted to try to help. I kind of rambled, but I spent many years in construction & even though I am semi-retired, I still like to try to share. Even if I get long winded & verbose, I figure it is the effort that counts. LOL ;)

G'luck with your projects!
:)

Thanks to All for the Good Answers!

Dale

let me add ..while working ,as in me grandmas house, which had full 2 be 4's a pilot hole works wonders, in old dried out 60 yr old houses, being in the trade of fine woodworking the old school euros had a hole in their wooden hammer handle filled with bees wax

I found gyproc screws too brittle and easily snapped off on many woodworking projects. I like to use the proper wood screws for most work. Piolet holes, wax or soap all work well.

I assembled my deck with 3/8 lag screws into treated lumber. I twisted off the first 2 then started lubing them with bar soap and they went in with out twisting off. I was driving them with a 1/2" drill. SO yes the lube does help

Pilot holes and some type of lubrication for the screws is what I've always done. Nothing dumb about that castalott!

huh, learn something new every day. Seeing as I'm working with studs and lumber from '59 this will be quite handy during the reassemble. Thanks yall.

My house was built in 1905. 2x4" petrified white pine [emoji268] studs. Nothing goes in that without a close sized hole! Bends 16 penny nails every time!!


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Still had knob/tube with cut off wires in basement rafters!


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