Any one have a 1.1 X 12 tap to chase the thread on a 98 action I'm putting together.
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Any one have a 1.1 X 12 tap to chase the thread on a 98 action I'm putting together.
Isnt the old German actions surface hardened?
Yes but I'm only chasing the treads. The barrel I got is just a little tight, I could probably get it on but I think chasing the threads would be better.
That works thanks missed it in my search could only find them for sale.
I would suggest freezing the barrel so the male threads will shrink slightly and at the same time heat the action or whatever you call the part with female parts so that will expand. I would suggest a graphite lube on the male threads so there is no metal to metal contact and all should go together.
Yes it looks like I'll bee cleaning it the best I can with a pick and a brush then put it together, as they only sell and rent 60° taps.
Hi Pusdad, I just fitted a SKS barrel to a tight reciver, it went in just fine after using a thread chaser & a coating of "Felpro-anti sez", Fivefang
I am not a machinist. Having said that, on one occasion when I needed to chase female threads I used a donor bolt and filed grooves perpendicular to the threads. Do you have a take off, junk barrel you could use in the same manner?
Respectfully
Bill
Unless you threaded the barrel there is a very good chance that the barrel threads are 60 degree and not 55 degree as a lot of the manufacturers feel it's close enough.
Excellent idea :goodpost:in post #9
You can use lapping compound and turn the barrel in and out an lap the threads in that way. It's slow but it works.
Yes lapping does work, and it takes a bit of time. I did it when I built my first .35 Whelen, and it will put three Remington factory 200 gr PSP's on a quarter at 100 yards. At lest it did when I had the 3-9X Leupold on it, since switched to a 1.5-5X, anything I am going to shoot with that rifle is big enough not to need a lot of magnification.
Robert
I've been thinking about the lapping compound it's getting better I'm a couple turns off but it's tight so I might apply some compound but I've got plenty of time, it's not like I need this done right away spring should be a nice time to shoot it I think.
Thanks for all the reply's
I'llSecond the vote for lapping compound but I wouldn't use my good new barrel I find a scrap barrel stop or turn and thread a scrap piece of steel to use as a lapi've done this before using a trashed Mauser barrel and it does work very well
My suggestion is to take the thing to someone with a lathe. Have him take a 55 degree tool, pick up the threads, and run them until the barrel just screws onto your action.
Do it right, or don't do it at all. Mausers have 55 degree threads. Make everything fit cofrectly.
I have the tap you are looking for. PM me
Lap it in. There's a tiny inconsistency betw the bbl and recv'r threads and lapping will straighten that out with ease.
Using a tap on the recv'r only assumes that the problem is with the threads in the recv'r and you don't know that.
Could be in the recv'r,,could be the bbl threads,,could be both.
Lapping in the bbl into the recv'r takes little time and makes for a nice smooth fit-up. No jamming to the threads and recv'r when the bbl is drawn up.
JMO of course
The action is indeed likely to be hard enough to blunten the tap, and Reamer Rentals are likely to get ugly about their repair or replacement charge. Lapping compounds can be fine, but the particles aren't of infinitely small size, and you would have trouble getting them into a really tight thread. A Mauser thread die on the softer barrel threads would be better.
I would plug the chamber and paint or tape the barrel shoulder, and reduce the threads with about 10% nitric acid. You can keep rinsing it off and trying the fit until you get the reduction you need.
adding another endorsement for the use of copper bearing colloidal anti-seize when turning barrels. this reduces resistance, assists in getting accurate torque, and allows the barrel to be removed in future. the problem you are experiencing now was caused by an initial installation without anti-seize, and "friction welding" (galling) that is the natural result.