Thought you guys would be interested in how I make my blocks, different then most are made. I have chunks of aluminum that was scrapped at work. I use my bandsaw to rough cut rectangles (takes forever) so I will be able to cut 1-1/2 X 1-1/2 by 1-3/4 high blocks from it. I get five blocks from one. I then rough mill it to square it up and cut out the blocks. I then use a fly cutter to get two sides parallel and to the thickness I want plus enough for cutting and milling. I then drill the pin holes. I then cut the block in half, and mill the insides with the fly cutter. I reverse my fly cutter blade and cut vent lines with a cutter I ground on that side. I make them .002 to .003" deep and only cut them on one face. I now install the pins and adjust them for a perfect fit. It takes two different size holes, one size for a tight pin fit and the other side smaller so the rounded end fits good. Now while clamped together I mill the sides and bottom to get a perfect block. I don't do the top yet.
I made a vice from cast iron risers that screw the sides together evenly with a left hand thread in one side and a right hand thread in the other. I made it to mount to my milling table after I remove the top table. I use the table gibs. I clamp the blocks in each side and they won't move when opening and closing the jaws. Now I mill the top of the block. I center it to the mill head, open the jaws and insert the cherry to the depth I need. It takes only a short time to cut the cavity but I clean chips often. After halfway done, I de-burr it. I never start to open the jaws with the cherry spinning but shut it off first. I take out the burrs by reaching in with a flat tool with fine emery on it. I never remove the blocks for any reason until it is done. I remove burrs 2 or 3 times more and make sure the blocks are clean before they close all the way. I use a spray cleaner and lube with WD-40. The cavity comes out smooth and shiny and the pins are in, no chance of getting out of line by pinning after milling. Most times I am only out of round near the parting line by .0002" or less.
I then mill the handle slots for a set of Rapine handles, drill and tap all holes and fit the 3/16" stainless sprue cutter. These are tough to make and I have to mount it in a four jaw chuck to drill the hole and use a lathe tool to cut the taper for the ladle. Never found a good countersink that works on the stuff. Got the stainless free so I can't complain.
This works so good that I don't have to remove any burrs from the inside edges of the cavity. Boolits drop right out and bases are perfect.
If you guys tell me how to get pictures on here I will post them.
