temperature to anneal Hornady .44 gas checks

FYI - I have a friend who is a glass artisan, and has kilns to make glass products. I've used her kilns a couple times to heat (anneal) my gas checks so that they would resize more easily, without spring-back, onto my Lyman Devastator & NOE moulds. Without annealing, it would be VERY difficult to resize the hard gas-checked bullets in my Lyman 45 lubrisizers. To anneal, I put the entire 1,000 checks into a pipe "nipple", about 2" inside diameter, 6" long, capped at both ends, loosely enough so that I could easily remove the caps with bare hands after cooling. I included about 1/2 sheet of crumpled up 8 1/2" x 14" piece of paper (to take up the oxygen in the air inside the nipple, as it burns - this prevents any black oxide coating on the checks). I let the work sit @ 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit about 1/2 hour, then let it cool naturally. I may not need to heat it up that high for proper annealing. I'm not sure, but 800-900 degrees may be hot enough.

Jimb.

I've never annealed gas checks before, but doing copper gaskets I heat them up , usually a dull red, then quench in water. Is there a way you can heat them all up in the pipe with a cap off and dump them in a bucket?

Just an idea, don't know if slowly heating and cooling them does the same thing.
-Jesse

Dull red sir, but your pipe nipple will heat to cherry red before the copper gas checks will, -unless- the nipple and caps are also copper.. Once you got it dull red it's annealed, it doesn't really matter if you dump them in water or not.

I've been dumping them in a pan, hit with MAPP torch till they change color, let them cool. I can tell the difference in seating and shooting. No black oxide to remove. Maybe not fully annealed but enough to work fine.