Some thoughts on why Lee pots (sometimes) drip.

When I bought my Lee pot I was convinced that this potential dripping would not be a problem. The first time I used it I had to rethink things. I cast roundballs, max size .490, so I need a slow stream from the nozzle (otherwise it just goes everywhere!). When I tried to set it to a suitable pour rate it kept running/dripping when I released the knob [smilie=b:. I had to wriggle it or knock it down to get it to stop. Figuring more weight on top would help, I made a knob from round steel stock, tapped a hole and screwed it to the top of the metering rod. Didn't make much difference, and at this point I was beginning to regret buying it.

So I drained the pot to see why it wasn't closing. I noticed that the bottom of the rod wasn't centred and was touching the left side of the nozzle. This constant friction, coupled with the small up/down movement of the rod was obviously stopping it from closing. As the rod is rigidly attached to the handle bracket there was nothing to adjust to centre the rod. The extra weight on top made no difference, because due to the design of the heavy handle weight being attached halfway down the bracket all that weight is transferred sideways and pushes the rod to the side.

The RCBS handle design has a pivot at the top of the metering rod and another at the end of the handle, so the rod can "hang" with a little bit of free-play thus allowing it to centre itself. So I duplicated the RCBS handle, and for good measure fitted a spring on the side to put extra constant downward pressure on the metering rod.

Of course, after I did all this it occurred to me that if I had simply replaced the steel handle knob on the side with one made from a piece of dowel, while keeping the heavy steel knob on top of the metering rod, it may have worked adequately without building a new handle assembly!! By adding extra weight directly on top of the rod, and reducing the side weight to as little as possible it should allow the rod to centre itself more easily and also reduce the side friction.

Oh well, it was an interesting project.......
Attachment 105019

Very nice. Filed in my cerebral junkdrawer in case I need it one day. May do it simply because it seems that handle is less likely to get hot.

A good mod for a nice new pot like the one I have in a box out in my garage. Thank you for posting. Would be kind enough to add addition pictures for clarity for those of us lacking in imagination? :-?

Thank you,

Dave

A few casting sessions ago my Lee pot had a good drip going. I emptied it to scrape and clean its bowl out. Good as new again.

pmer, I don't think there's any doubt that these pots are highly susceptible to crud causing a problem with the pour nozzle. If you use a high flow rate, as in casting big boolits, then it may tend to be a bit more self-cleaning I reckon. I still think that placing the heavy knob on top of the metering rod and using a very light handle on the side (or none, just a screw with a lock nut) will make it operate better.

Dave, there's more photos in this post - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...9-Lee-pot-mods. If you need any other views, let me know. As for the base/support replacement, openNRG on here does a very nice kit. My method is a lot of work!

My Lee pot drips the RCBS doesn't. It's just the way things are.

couple things that will fix a lee, and are easy . First is to take the drop pin and run some fine sand with a drill to "seat" it correct. Next is to add a little weight to the Knob,I used a 3/8 U bolt.If you put any steel on the knob it gets too hot. 3 is keep the lead clean and do not let it get to bottom.
If you are not going to use it for a while, Dump the lead and let cool and spray inside with WD40 or the like. to keep it from rusting.That will burn off on next melt
They are still the best buy and the rebuild kit is the cheapest of any. I bought a kit 10yrs ago for like $15 and have yet to use it .Pot is 30+yrs and still works good. and dont drip IF i dont let it get low and mess up the valve .
OH as for RCBS I have one and it WILL drip too . the spring deal works but dirty lead is the problem most times

Nice modification.
If mine gets the drips I usually open and close it rapidly into the stainless steel condiment cup I keep handy to place under it. That has proven to clear the dripping crud cluster.
I have left it simmering and come back to a silvery art form much like a silver plated cow pie in shape.
I haven't fired it up in a month of Sundays because I have so blessed many .30 and .45 "ingots" prepped that there is little reason to.
That's what happens when you get a roll on speed casting and water dropping pounds and pounds of alloy. Hundreds of pounds.
Somebody is going to find or inherit an amazing hoard of BRTL. (That's: Bullets Ready To Load) ;)

I turn the screw with a screw driver held between my hand's ala like a fire starting stick.

I just learn to live with it, it's going to happen and I'm tired of trying to stop it.

Slim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zuke

I turn the screw with a screw driver held between my hand's ala like a fire starting stick.

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YEP! Use a battery operated screw driver About 15 seconds every 15 minutes.

Mine dripped one session after years of non-dripping blis... I drained the pot and found what I believe to be antimony built up in the hole on one side (it was a pain to get out and would not melt with my torch) but after finally removing it no more drip... its the price we pay for using antimony in our lead, If it hardens in the pour spout its a pain to get out.

Doc

Mine drips a bit after several sessions of none. I can reduce by adjusting the rod, goes away for a while but comes back. Think I'll empty and clean next time.

I broke out some firelapping grit (600), put some on the shaft and spun it using a drill to fit it to the hole.
Never had a drip I didn't induce myself.

CPL Lou