Texan Press

Hello All,

After looking around for the past few weeks or so, I realized that there is not a lot of information out there for my Texan press. Because of that, I thought I would share my experience in hopes that someone will find it helpful in the future.

The story:
I actually found my press while cleaning out an empty repossessed house about 10 years ago. There was TONS of stuff left behind in a repo house and the bank hired me to take it all to the dump. Buried under all of this stuff was this beast of a reloading press and some other components (dies, brass, etc). At that time, I was not a heavy shooter but I did recognize that it was reloading stuff and decided to hang on to it. It sat in a closet for a number of years and with the recent spike in ammo prices, I decided to dig it out and try to get it running. There was no markings on it so I posted a thread on cast boolits and the friendly folks here let me know that it is a Texan Model 101-T-2. The company is not around any more so parts are pretty much nonexistent.

All in all the press was in fair shape after I cleaned it up.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/etbll.jpg http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/mna5p.jpg

There were a couple of problems, however....

Issue #1: Linkage
As the original thread discusses, the shell holder was not reaching high enough to reach the dies.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/1znih.jpg

I took it apart many times and tried to figure out what the problem was, hoping it was out of alignment or something stupid. Finally, a member (FLTHC) posted some pictures of his press and it was realized that the linkage on mine was shortened by about 1". I am guessing the previous owner wanted to neck size as opposed to full length size the cases so s/he shortened the throw on the press. Other theories are that it was used for swaging at one point. Either way, I had to get new links.

Well, as mentioned, Texan presses have not been made for some time. Apparently they were made by Rotex Manufacturing for a while. I also read that CH4D was related to them but after discussing this with the owner of CH4D, that is not the case. This meant there was no chance that I would find replacement parts. So I took the old links to a local machine shop (Tri County Precision Machinery) and had new ones made that were the correct length. Here is a picture comparing the new to the old:
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/v58vc.jpg


Here is one of it all back together (excuse the mess, I was still working on it :)):
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/gl93a.jpg

Continued below...

Issue #2: Primer feed
I believe the best description of the primer system was on an old thread that Pressman said: "The auto primer feed is best left to those with a mechanical engineering degree". Not being wise enough to heed warnings from someone who is obviously more acquainted with reloading than me, I decided to give it a go. Besides, accountants and mechanical engineers are pretty much the same :)

My press seemed to have most of the major parts, all that appeared to be missing was the small tube that the primers ride in. It should be noted that I was guessing at this point because I have never seen one with the primer feed completely in operation so I really don't know what is missing. So off to Ace hardware I went to buy some 1/4" brass tubing (for large rifle primers). I cut the tube down to about 16" and stuck it in the the big black tube attached to the press. The problem is, the tube was hanging up on the primer carrier (not sure what it is called, see below) when in use. To remedy this, I had to raise the tube up by putting a washer and O ring at the top (sorry about the blurry picture).
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/xofkc.jpg

With the tube in place, I decided to give it a go. I noticed that there are a few adjustments that need to be done. I was guessing and checking but I think I figured out what the correct order is:

First, adjust the position of the primer carrier so that it slides up into the shell carrier. I want to point out that I started making up my own names for parts as I have no clue what the real name is. Here is a picture of what I am calling the "primer carrier".
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/jjjua.jpg

You can adjust the forward and backward movement by turning the black knob on the front of the contraption.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/6sbl1.jpg

It helps to look through the top of the shell holder to see if it is aligned or not.

Initially mine was dragging on one side, I had to push on the primer carrier to the left to get it to align properly. I fussed with the primer feed and carrier for along time until I figured out that the rear guide rod for the shell carrier was loose, causing the shell carrier to turn slightly when at the bottom of the stroke.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/9h16u.jpg

After the carrier is aligned, you need to adjust its height. Run the handle all the way up (putting the shell holder all the way down) and make sure the end of the carrier is poking through the shell holder.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/jen54.jpg

You can test it by putting a primer in by hand and trying to prime a case.

After the height of the carrier is set, you can now turn you attention to the feeding assembly. There were 2 adjustments I had to make, the height of the outer (black) tube, and the height of the inner (brass) tube.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/r7ky1.jpg

Adjust the brass tube first by moving the O ring up and down to make the bottom of the brass tube about flush with the bottom of the black tube. Now you can adjust the black tube using the nuts on the bottom. You want the tubes about 1/8" higher than the primer carrier when it is all the way back.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/isa3f.jpg

Trial and error is likely to be in order here, put some spent primers in the tube and try it out, adjust the height until it is not binding as the carrier is pushed forward. If the tubes are too high, the primer will land sideways or miss the carrier completely, too low and the primer will bind on the tubes. I recommend using spent primers first because if the primer binds, there is possibility of detonation. Most already know this but just to be clear, once one primer goes off, it is a chain reaction up the tube as the rest cook off. Best case is ringing ears for the rest of the day (like this guy), worst case is you have to make a trip to the hospital and your friends start making pirate jokes about the patch you now wear over your eye.

Now that the tubes are adjusted, cycle it without brass in the shell holder just to make sure everything works correctly.

There is another adjustment that can be done to the spring that keeps the primers from falling out. I did not have to mess with this but it seems pretty self explanatory. If anyone needs help with this, PM me.

Issue #3: Shell Holder (ongoing)
Texan shell holders are slightly different from standard shell holders in a couple of ways.
First, I noticed that my RCBS shell holders would not fit into the shell holder carrier because the lip on the bottom of the RCBS shell holder is slightly thicker than that on the texan one.
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/7ajqi.jpg

This is simple enough to fix, I just took a dremel to the shell holder carrier and made a little more room. This took all of 1 min and I removed very little material. I used a worn out cutting wheel that fit into the shell holder carrier. Here is the final product:
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/t/n4wpy.jpg

After a short celebration and a little wondering of why I didn't do this earlier, I tried it out. I decapped a couple of 40 S&W shells and did a little dance. However, I noticed the second difference when I tried to prime the shells. The hole in the texan shell holders that allows the priming seater thingy to pass through is bigger. This means that I cannot prime when using RCBS shell holders :( I will post the measurements and a side by side comparison when I get home. I noticed this with both the 40 S&W and 30-30 shell holders so I do not think it is just a small primer vs large primer issue.

I figure I have 4 options: Have my RCBS shell holders drilled out (I tried doing it myself with a cordless drill, the metal is too hard), find Texan shell holders (doubtful, I did find a chart for the sizes though, see attached), try to find another brand of shell holders which has a larger hole (hornady ones look big but I have none to compare to), or try to find another primer carrier that is smaller. I will update when I have a chance...

Issue #4: Turret movement (ongoing)
When I am using the press, I noticed that the turret tilts towards the back when pressure is applied. When I tighten the nut on the top of the turret, it no longer tilts. However, when it is that tight, the turret does not spin. I am thinking that I can put a shim under the turret to fix this. I will update as soon as I have time to play with it.

Issue #5: Binding (ongoing)
I noticed that after I tightened the rear guide shaft in fixing issue #2, the shell carrier assembly is not as smooth as before. I will have to disassemble it once again to see if I can get it lined up right.

Issue #6: Spent Primer Tray (ongoing)
This isn't so much of an issue as it is something that I want to improve in the design. The spent primers fall out of the bottom and usually go through the linkage and get stuck underneath the press. It is not a big deal but I want to try to make a tray that catches the spent primers but still allows the primer feed to work. I am thinking of a small cup around the primer carrier that can be removed, that or cut up beer can to at least divert the spent primers from getting underneath the machine.

Well, I think that is it for now. I am going to keep the next few spots open and update as I come across any more issues and [hopefully] fixes.

Reserved 3

So far you are doing great with this project. I'm looking forward to how the rest of it pans out.

Awesome job. I have the instructions for that auto primer somewhere around here. I am sure it's the same contraption that my shotshell loader has on it.

Wow. It is beginning to take shape. I picked up an earlier version of what you had at a garage sale for $2. It has only a steel rod with a primer cup on top. I can't see how to make it like yours. The old beast does have way more mechanical advantage than my early 70's vintage Rock Chucker Jr. I'll be following this thread.

Thanks everyone for the kind words! Sorry I took so long to respond, I have been out of town and apparently I do not have the thread subscription set up right.

Anyway, I am planning on tinkering with it this week and hopefully I will be able to post my progress. I did use it the other day to load up some 30-06 with no problems that I can blame on the machine :) I am still learning so there were some mishaps :roll:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rattlesnake Charlie

I picked up an earlier version of what you had at a garage sale for $2. It has only a steel rod with a primer cup on top. I can't see how to make it like yours.

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Well, I think you got a good deal! As far as the primer set up goes, I believe the auto primer feed was an option that one could add for additional charge. So some had the sliding contraption like mine while others just have the primer holder cup thing. I assume you just have to put the primer on the cup one at a time. Sounds cumbersome but I doubt it is that bad. After all, old turret presses are not much for speed and efficiency! If I am not understanding correctly or you have any other questions, let me know :)

thanks again!

what size reloading dies does the Texans use?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NSP64

what size reloading dies does the Texans use?

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Hi,

Mine uses standard dies. I believe it is 7/8". The same dies fit my RCBS rock chucker.

I hope this helps!

I was given a Texan shotshell reloader today, along with 1,000 very old 209 primers. It is partially disassembled so I would appreciate a picture of one up and running if possible. It's filthy but I think the dust will come off. Haven't checked yet but I'm confident it's a 12 ga. The thing has some kind of tapered expander doodad that's wired for 110. Heated? Thanks. EDIT; A search here turned up a LOT of info! I'll get it running.

Texan made a plethora of Shotshell loaders. I am assuming, since it is pertaining to this post, yours is a "round" Texan with the shovel handle?

The 110 apparatus is for forming/repairing paper shotshells. If you are not going to be loading paper, you can remove, unless you just want to leave it for the historical cool factor.

Thanks for the reply LD. I never heard of a Texan shotshell reloader before yesterday. This one is apparently a single stage type. Been neglected for a long time. I'll clean it up. Found quite a bit of info here that will help me figure it out, but it looks like a simple machine.

Thanks for sharing , I just got a press just like this . I got it from the original owner for 75.00 including all the parts and original instructions .

Hey 1911guncrazy, welcome to Cast Boolits. That is a good price for a MK2 or MK4.

Where in East TX are you? I'm in Tyler.

I have and use weekly four Texan presses, one metallic, one manual shot shell, setup for handicap reloads, and two progressive 12 gauge shot shell setup for trap. They all work flawlessly, are very well designed, heavy and well built. Bob

I agree BPratl ! Many Texans and a lot of other old school equipment is built so much better than what products of today have to offer. And those old presses will last several lifetimes if not neglected.

Lubedude , I am in Quinlan thanks for the welcome . The man I bought this from is selling a lifetime of reloading supplies .

1911- yeah you're a bit West of me.

Man take advantage of the opportunity at hand from that fella and get ya some good stuff and good deals!

That's a great post on your Texan, There is a turret head on the big E for sale if any one needs it.Here is my Texan rebuild project.In process of restoring it hope to have it done soon. will post pics. Thanks