Differences between Lube-a-matic and lube-a-matic II

Hey guys,

I am a long time handloader and cast bullet shooter. However, I am a complete novice at the casting game. I have been reading this forum and browsing catalogues looking for equipment. I came across a used RCBS Lube-a-matic and was wondering if I should just go ahead and buy a new Lube-a-matic II. What are the main differences or improvements with the Lube II. Also, I am going to try to make a batch of the Felix lube. Will this lube work with either of these two pieces of equipment. I saw in the advertisement where it said the RCBS equipment used a hollow stick and from reading posts about the Felix lube it sounds like you just pour it in.

Now to furnaces. How many ladle casters are out there versus bottom pour. All the talk about clogging and maintenance of the bottom pour units makes me think simple may be better. I was thinking of a Lee 4-20 as far as a bottom pour. But, there again I don't have enough experience to really know what I would be happier with.

I will be casting several different handgun bullets to start with and then I want to get into the rifle end after I get my feet wet.

I really enjoy reading this forum and have to say that the knowledge and sense of humor you guys bring is outstanding.

Oh, bye the way, I was reading about how much everyone pays for WW. Somebody said they take a sack of doughnuts with them. Well, it worked for me. I went to a large local tire center and they were talking in the neighborhood of $15 for a full 5 gl. bucket. I walked in with a dozen doughnuts a couple of days later and they were so surprised, they gave me the WW at no charge. Got the price down from $15 to something like $3.85 for the doughnuts. The guy said to come back anytime.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Differences in the 'I and the 'II are related to ease and economy of manufacture. If CarpetMan was out of bed yet, he'd gladly explain that the 'I is better than the 'II, because it has the ratchet operated lube feed mechanism while the 'II has a simple continuous feed turn screw. It works just as well, I think he gets off on the ratchet sounds...Probably pretends he's tightening the thumb screws on a cat. If you prefer the type I, RCBS will gladly give you the parts to convert it. Or you can send it to CarpetMan's genius gunsmith, who is also his mailman... Either unit is fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eka

Hey guys,

I am a long time handloader and cast bullet shooter. However, I am a complete novice at the casting game. I have been reading this forum and browsing catalogues looking for equipment. I came across a used RCBS Lube-a-matic and was wondering if I should just go ahead and buy a new Lube-a-matic II. What are the main differences or improvements with the Lube II. Also, I am going to try to make a batch of the Felix lube. Will this lube work with either of these two pieces of equipment. I saw in the advertisement where it said the RCBS equipment used a hollow stick and from reading posts about the Felix lube it sounds like you just pour it in.

Now to furnaces. How many ladle casters are out there versus bottom pour. All the talk about clogging and maintenance of the bottom pour units makes me think simple may be better. I was thinking of a Lee 4-20 as far as a bottom pour. But, there again I don't have enough experience to really know what I would be happier with.

I will be casting several different handgun bullets to start with and then I want to get into the rifle end after I get my feet wet.

I really enjoy reading this forum and have to say that the knowledge and sense of humor you guys bring is outstanding.

Oh, bye the way, I was reading about how much everyone pays for WW. Somebody said they take a sack of doughnuts with them. Well, it worked for me. I went to a large local tire center and they were talking in the neighborhood of $15 for a full 5 gl. bucket. I walked in with a dozen doughnuts a couple of days later and they were so surprised, they gave me the WW at no charge. Got the price down from $15 to something like $3.85 for the doughnuts. The guy said to come back anytime.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

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Welcome EKA

I Am a Newbie as well to this Cast'n Hobby as well the advice I can Give you is RUN AWAY as fast as you can!

Because this Hobby is EXTREAMLY addictive!
Well I guess U decided not to Run..
I use the older Lube-a-matic. Got it real cheap and it works
sizes and everythang
I am going to make some Felix as well. the dim. on the sticks
are 1" diam. 4" long and the hole is 1/4 " u can make some mould's for them out of 1" pvc pipe with dowell (wood) rod
held in the center. (you can find the post for that here on this board).

As far the Melt pot I use the bottem pour method.
because I feel safer that way. that ladle thang for me is to much. and I can Cast More faster.
but this is a person pref. thing as you will find methods
that work the best for you.

also if your married? dont cook the lube in the house or use her best pot. if you do "Well you find out."

Welcome to the forum you brave soul.
and may your Boolits Fly Straight.

P.s. Cast Boolits in my Guns Shoot more accr. than ANY store boughts. "I feel Like I have NEW guns"

Good Luck
chuck

EKA, headin' down the slippery slope, you are. Welcome aboard. Can't answer your question about the Lube II, but I have 2 of the older model that work okay. Both were used when I acquired them for cheap. I keep FWFL in cup cake papers (gotta use a muffin tin when pouring them) and put them a Pyrex measure cup (peel the cup cake wrapper first) to melt in the microwave when needed (heat ONLY enough to liquify and no more). Then simply pour it in the reservoir leaving enough space on top to seat the plunger. Advantage in doing this over the lube sticks is that you get little or usually NO air trapped in there.

Way to go on the WWs!!! Another tactic that sometimes works if the shop has some fishermen is to offer some sinkers (if you already have sinker moulds). Of course that means giving up a little of what you went beggin' (oops, 'bartering' I guess is a better word) for in the first place.

Can't help any on the bottom pours. I dipper and laddle everything depending on the mould. I have a 20 lb Lee pot and a cast iron 10 pounder on the Coleman stove. Both get used regularly (except when it so steekin hot like is now). My very best match boolits for rifle are all dipper poured, and the consistency is phenominal. Since your just starting into casting you may change tact several times, so expect to make some changes as you progress. Most of my pistol boolits, especially with the 6 banger Lee moulds, and dippered which makes piles of boolits really fast. sundog

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eka

Hey guys,

I am a long time handloader and cast bullet shooter. However, I am a complete novice at the casting game. I have been reading this forum and browsing catalogues looking for equipment. I came across a used RCBS Lube-a-matic and was wondering if I should just go ahead and buy a new Lube-a-matic II. What are the main differences or improvements with the Lube II. Also, I am going to try to make a batch of the Felix lube. Will this lube work with either of these two pieces of equipment. I saw in the advertisement where it said the RCBS equipment used a hollow stick and from reading posts about the Felix lube it sounds like you just pour it in.

Now to furnaces. How many ladle casters are out there versus bottom pour. All the talk about clogging and maintenance of the bottom pour units makes me think simple may be better. I was thinking of a Lee 4-20 as far as a bottom pour. But, there again I don't have enough experience to really know what I would be happier with.

I will be casting several different handgun bullets to start with and then I want to get into the rifle end after I get my feet wet.

I really enjoy reading this forum and have to say that the knowledge and sense of humor you guys bring is outstanding.

Oh, bye the way, I was reading about how much everyone pays for WW. Somebody said they take a sack of doughnuts with them. Well, it worked for me. I went to a large local tire center and they were talking in the neighborhood of $15 for a full 5 gl. bucket. I walked in with a dozen doughnuts a couple of days later and they were so surprised, they gave me the WW at no charge. Got the price down from $15 to something like $3.85 for the doughnuts. The guy said to come back anytime.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

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EKA
I much prefer the LM1 over the LM11. The ratchet handle is not a concern for me and I think the T handle may be better as I have worn out the hex shaft that the ratchet engages and had to replace them. The main reason I like the LM1 is the resivor top just sits on and is a simple matter to pick it up to see how much lube is left. This is important to me because I pour my lube in to fill the resivor. With the LM11 the top is threaded on and is a unit that contains the shaft and plunger. To inspect the LM11 you must unthread the top and with some dificulty pull the plunger up out of the resivor tube just to see inside the tube. Another thing I like about green tools is they replace them when worn out. Now you will likely never where one out but I have done several. They have replaced each one for free even when I have offered to pay replacment cost. The most recent one the person BS Mom talked to on the phone said they would have to charge us something as they could not stay in business otherwise and we cheerfuly agread admitting to hard commercial use, but alas yet another arrived free of charge. One little glitch here though that whenever they replace one it is an LM11 and so begins another search to find a trade for an LM1. At present I have four LM1 units in use. I have other presses in use but the RCBS LM1 by far gets the most use. Hope I have helped with you search.
BIC/BS

.............EKA, welcome to the board. It's a wunnerfull group and a great past time.

"........Now to furnaces. How many ladle casters are out there versus bottom pour. All the talk about clogging and maintenance of the bottom pour units makes me think simple may be better. I was thinking of a Lee 4-20 as far as a bottom pour. But, there again I don't have enough experience to really know what I would be happier with."

I really believe that overall a dipper may prove the most accurate. It seems the guys who are strictly (ultimate) accuracy minded will dipper pour. These being the cast lead benchrest and long range guys.

On the other hand, a bottom pour pot is faster to cast with (less motions involved), and yet you can produce match winning boolits with them. My main reason for using a bottom pour is the speed of casting. Get a bottom pour to start out with. You can always plug the nozzle and use a dipper if you find you like it better, but you can't go the other way.

"............I will be casting several different handgun bullets to start with and then I want to get into the rifle end after I get my feet wet."

You'll find for the most part that peestol boolits are a lot easier to cast then rifle boolits. The pistol ones are short and squatty like a troll. Rifle ones are long sleek svelte creations, and pure artwork in comparison.

"............I really enjoy reading this forum and have to say that the knowledge and sense of humor you guys bring is outstanding."

Heh heh. Won't be too long and you'll be just as whacked out. Just don't become a range snob. Just because you're a member of the cognoscenti and the illuminati is not a reason to look down your nose at the great unwashed.

.............Buckshot

Thanks so much for the info. guys.

I was thinking of converting my WW to one pound ingots in a iron pot and then using the cleaner ingots for my furnace. Would it be crazy to do that extra step? I was just thinking the cleaner ingots might reduce some problems in the bottom pour pot.

Also, will fishing sinkers work for slugging the bores on my firearms? If not what do some of you guys use?

Take care!

EKA, check this out:

http://www.castpics.net/RandD/moas/moas.htm

Be sure to view both pages.

That's Felix and me doing the 'clean the WWs' routine. Highly recommended so you can dispose of the trash and have clean alloy to put in the pot - even on a smaller scale. I have a cast iron dutch oven that I use on the turkey fryer that can handle about 50 lbs at a time. Watch out for wet WWs when adding to the already hot pot. Heating a large batch from the start will usaully drive off any moisture as it heats, but a lid is handy and also keeps from loosing the heat during warm up.

I mentioned before that I do not have nor have ever used a bottom pour. When I dipper pour I still have to ocassionally clean the spout, inside and out. Out side gets a wipe from a clean rag or paper towel and resmoked (do not use a spray release on hot metal). Inside gets a reaming, by hand, with a twist drill of appropriate size. Prior to casting I usually clean the dipper real good and apply a light coat of Midway Drop Out or smoke it with wooden matches especially inside the spout, then preheat by floating it on the melt. sundog

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eka

Thanks so much for the info. guys.

I was thinking of converting my WW to one pound ingots in a iron pot and then using the cleaner ingots for my furnace. Would it be crazy to do that extra step? I was just thinking the cleaner ingots might reduce some problems in the bottom pour pot.

Also, will fishing sinkers work for slugging the bores on my firearms? If not what do some of you guys use?

Take care!

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Fishing sinkers will work nicely. They are usually dead soft lead. There is one type that is even cast in a handy shape to serve our purpose. And when you're done with them, just throw them into the melting pot...

Hey Art,

The liberals have gotten at the fishing sinkers too! They are hard to find out of pure lead. I buy split shot for my trout fishing and I tell you, you have a hard time closing them on the fishing line. I read something about them being made out of harder alloys. One sinker is even toted as being natural as can be because it's made of granite!

Joe

EKA---I started out with cast iron pot and ladle and then bought a Lee bottom pour. I much prefer the bottom pour. Most equipment,I do highly prefer RCBS over Lee. I do think Lee furnaces are a good buy as compared to the cost of some of the other brands. In my books no comparison of an RCBS steel mold and an aluminum Lee. Lee a distant second on that one. I also started out with a Lyman luber and it was inline with the older RCBS in operation. Rather I should say the RCBS was inline with it as the Lyman was around a long time before the RCBS and most likely RCBS copied it. Lymans,old and new RCBS--- all top punches and dies interchange. Other than the RCBS warranty and possibly the RCBS holds pressure a little better,I'd rate the old RCBS and the Lyman about equal. The new RCBS uses a toggle handle vs the ratchet that old RCBS and Lymans use. I much prefer the ratchet. You ask about the extra step of converting ww's to ingots---by all means do that. In fact don't use your furnace to do it. This should be done outdoors as you will get lots of smoke. You will get lots of crud that will stop up a bottom pour. I use a cast iron pot and a Coleman stove and that serves my purposes well. Now once melted,what you use to make ingots is a whole nother post with numerous responses and the true genius of this board will errupt. Me--I use a Lyman ingot mold and the N is backwards. I didnt have all the fun of searching for cornbread makers,muffin pans steel,aluminum,teflon coated,plain,rusted,oiled,and making mine from angle iron,old beer cans--you name it---the only thing I have not heard about someone trying was condoms.

I think I set a record and will make Guineses Book. I posted over 15 minutes ago that I had not heard of anyone using a condom for an ingot mold. 15 minutes and Wills has not posted a link to someone doing such as that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by carpetman

I think I set a record and will make Guineses Book. I posted over 15 minutes ago that I had not heard of anyone using a condom for an ingot mold. 15 minutes and Wills has not posted a link to someone doing such as that.

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http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/3934275.stm

Best I could do

Ray, needing a second ingot mould, I bought an RCBS. It makes four one lb. ingots just like the Lymaz does. Every dimension and every angle is just the same as Lymaz. Quality control at RCBS is better, because none of the letters are backward, even though none of the letters in RCBS are symetrical, affording maximum chance to make a mistake. By contrast, only the first and last letters of Lyman are non-symetrical, and they got one out of two wrong.

Wills--you amaze me, truly you do.

go to www.amazedatwills.com

Thanks again guys. Man I have a long way to go toward getting all this stuff sorted out. I'll just take it slow and get some advice occasionally.