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has anybody used bt snipers 40 to 44 dies to make flat topped bullets ???
i know brian is chaseing speed goats so. ive tried and when i run them threw the die they come out looking good , but you can see the rings from the core !!!
has anybody else used this?
i want to use these in a marlin. might have to go back to hp,s ???
I make a LOT of 44 magnums using Brian's one step die set. Most of them get fired in my S&W revolver. For that I like and prefer HP's.
Brian's die came set to make only Hollow Points. At least the one I got is. To make a flat nose, you need a different insert in the point form die.
Now, my original .40 one step die came with a set of three point form inserts. Flat nose, shallow hollow point, and deep hollow point. The flat nose worked fine.
A couple of tips come to mind in the making of .44 magnum one step bullet for your Marlin.
1) Use pure lead or range lead for the cast cores. Do NOT use anything harder. The bullets won't swell/expand properly otherwise.
2) For best results, anneal the brass before forming
You can make any weight bullets you want for your marlin, and my 250 grain HP's work well in my Marlin. You can go heavier, and the lead core will, indeed show above the edge of the brass. But they will be still very functional. Especially for hunting. If you have a set from Brian which includes a flat nose (versus a hollow point), then you can also make any weight of bullet. The lead will either be exposed or not, depending on how much lead you use in the core.
Any way you can take a picture of what you are getting, and post that for us to take a look at?
i usually just make flat points, then if i want hollow point's i re-run them.
you might need to use the core seater to mash the lead into the case first.
your core isn't flowing inside the jaxket well, and if you can see the rings from the core it isn't filling the jaxket properly.
if you don't have the core seater then a short trip into the point former,an anneal, then a finish trip in the one step die.
or just anneal the cases and go to the softer core, that softer alloy will flow under the pressure of point forming.
Those divots are most likely nothing to worry about. Your shooting FP's to begin with. Not the most aerodynamic bullet out there. I shoot mine in a Winchester 94 out to 125 yards with no issues. A surprising numbering flaws can occur in the nose of the bullet in your range, without sacrificing quality. The base of the bullet is far more important. Your best best would be to shoot some, and see how they do. Most likely, you won't see a problem.
im useing brians die. him and i haven been pm ing back and forth. i know he is out hunting. just thought somebody would know what the problem is ???
pure lead cores , anneled brass . brian just sent me the prep/ seater die. ive been making 44 hp's for over a year now for my 29, but now i was seeing if i could make some 265 gr flat points for the kids .444's
1 other thing is i made a few and went to knerl them and the knerl went in deep ?? it just didnt look right. in going to swap out the flat point back to the hp. see if that makes a diffrence ???
Now I know what the problem is:
When you swapped out the insert, you didn't adjust the working end of the tip of the insert properly. This issue has been well documented in other discussions in the past.
The edge of the flat nose insert needs to be adjusted so that it just meets the end of the curve that forms the nose. If you adjust too far out, it acts like a HP, but messes up the lead (oozes out). And, if you aren't far enough out, you'll get a round cylinder sticking out of the nose.
If you shine a light inside the die, while setting the depth of the insert, you will see when the edge gets to the right place. The reflection changes.
Try that and report back.
The knurling issue is because you didn't properly adjust the set screw that acts as a depth stop for the knurl wheel. Too deep and you will cut through the brass.
the tips looked perfect !!!! everything looked good till i noticed the rib look of the bullet threw the brass .
i was just looking at some of the core bullets that brian sent with the die, and it looks like the bullet groves have been smoothed by something ????
im going to be looking at work to see if i can get a core mold made up ... i found some blocks . but ive been looking at drill sizes and a y brill is .406 dia. might have to have 1 of the guys do some fancy cutting for me ????
You are compressing the brass, making the OAL shorter. You are correct in suspecting that the void is occurring where there is a void in your slug.
just made 10 265 hp's... they came out perfect !!!!!!
i did back off the hp tip alittle. but all i can think is when useing the hp punch it smashes the core more than the flat top ????
going to make 300 up and try them in that .444 this saterday
i did what brian said not to do !!! when prepping the brass not to much presure . i couldnt even get them in the die ..
Glad you got it working...... Let us know how your test firing goes.
well ????? maybe i shouldnt play with things !!!!!!!! i went and backed off the top of the die and put the flat punch back in. GOT IT !!!!!!!!! a 265 gr flat top .
must have been forceing top much into the die ???
now i cant go to sleep !!! i want to make more !!!!
maybe the power will go out at work tomarrow !!!!!!
thanks guys ! when i run into a problem it makes me think more when i have others offering ideas
Mr. Mom,
I'm back from hunting trip. Sounds like you got it figured out? Let me know if you still have any issues.
Good shooting!
BT