-
Ruger P95 won't eject
Not sure if this should be here or in the gunsmithing section, feel free to move it if necessary.
I have a Ruger P95 that does a partial eject every cycle(just about). I have cleaned the gun head to toe per the instructions and oiled it up. The slide move freely with no hang ups or hesitation and the gun is accurate as all get out with 124 grn boolit. Love shooting it, even if i have to cycle every round. A picture is worth a thousand words. So have a look at what its doing.....
Any suggestions before sending it back to Ruger?
http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/IMAG0442.jpg
-
What loads are you useing? Factory or if handload, what are the components you are using?
-
i had a problem similar to this with mine , then i sold it to buy a 1911 but thats another story.
anyway i solved it by locking my arm tighter , and loading the rounds just a bit hotter.
-
Sound to me that either you are shooting with a limp wrist or your load is too light. Try more powder.
-
Limp wristing or too light a load would be my guess. Is the ejector damaged also?
-
I have checked the extractor and it seems correct, but i have nothing to compare to.
As far as loads go, I have tried Winchester White box rounds from walmart, I tried brass cased blazer, and my personal fav, 124grn boolit over 4.4 grns of Unique with a CCI 500 Primer.
The gun is extremely accurate with the cast boolit with zero leading. The thing that I noticed however is that the primers seem to be flattening which is typical of over pressuring but according to my lyman book they tell me to start out at 4.2 grns.
I have let three other people shoot the firearm, it has done it to all three. I even clamped the lower rail in a gun vice and squeezed one off, it did it then too.
-
First thing is the limp wrist, work on that first. The Ruger sits a bit higher in your hand and is easier for people have the issue than some other handguns. your hard clamp test rules that out so we will move on.
Next is to make sure your recoil spring is installed in the correct direction. There is a smaller end that should go on to the rod. If you have it on backwards the small end can bind on the end of the guide rod and slow the slide to the point where it will cause issues.
Next you need to look at the ejector. the ejector is the small piece that you have to tip down to take the slide off/ install at the rear of the mag well. it should be a piece of stamped metal that has a protrusion that goes forward. The extractor is not an issue as seen in your picture it is doing its job. The ejector did not kick the case out. Make sure you have not bent the ejector.
I had a P89 that was a great shooter and highly reliable, I just felt like a brick to hold. I passed it on, but learned a bit about the workings while I had it.
What you experience is a common thing. I will put a link up for you to let you see others get to go thru this also. Or you can do a google search for Ruger P95 or P89 ejector issue.
-
-
That was a good read. However it isn't the issue i am having. I always check the orientation of my guide rod by compressing it while in place. If its installed incorrectly it will stick out past the slide, if not, it just compresses.
-
Did you check the condition or alignment of your ejector? Can you feel the slide end it's travel when you fire it, i.e. is the slide traveling fully to the rear? Did you put a shock buffer in it? Anything else that is non stock ( i did not read anything that would indicate no stock parts, but thought I would ask).
Also did you make sure the recoil spring is in the proper orientation? the tight end goes on the guide rod.
Have you detail stripped the gun? If you have you might take it all the way down again and put it back together.
This is really sounding like an ejector issue. Look closely at the end of the ejector to see if you can tell if it broken or bent. Maybe on of the members with a known good one can measure for you to compare.
Can you take a picture of the ejection port with the slide open and no case in place? or a picture or the ejector with slide removed?
-
-
One caveat is that I am recalling most of this from memory and do not have one to look at.
as to your pictures and comments, they help alot. See the cap on the guide rod muzzle end, is the spring tight on that end and loose on the chamber end? If it is the recoil spring is backwards.
The ejector will run in the slot on the left side of the slide, closer to the center. With the pistol unloaded and the slide locked back you should see the ejector protrude in that little step and extend past the slide face where cartridge is located. That little step shown on left side of bottom picture above is where the extractor contacts the case and is all that kicks the case out.
If the ejector does not run close enough to slide it will not contact the case head. The ejector can be bent when pushing it down to disassemble ( with too much force applied with slide in locked back position with out full retraction of slide). One needs to pull the slide all the way back and then push ejector down.
do this check and get back to us.
-
Any news on what you found with this one?
-
J-
Had exactly the same infurating problem with mine. Wonderful pistol but what a pain in the *ss. I was ready to throw it into the river. Solution: send it back to Ruger, it did. Now it is like new and will digest everything from light 115's to heavy 147's and 155 gr. LRN as well. I don't know what the problem is/was but they apparently are aware of it and know what to do.
-
I took it apart again check all the parts for burring and flashing they all look and feel fine. Put it back together and took it back to the range with some factory new Winchester rounds and the same thing is happening. Guess my hands are tied on it, off to Ruger it goes..
-
jlucht01,
can you take a picture of the pistol with the slide locked open? the picture needs to show the face of the slide and the ejector. can you take a close up of the ejector?
The ejector should protrude past the face of the slide and is should be close to underside of slide in the proper channel. it is a small area of the case where the ejector contacts the case.
Another test for you. feed a fired case or dummy round and watch as you retract the slide. watch under the cartridge at the lower side (you may have to work at being able to see under the cartridge. If the ejector is bent down and not contacting the case head you may be able to see it go under the cartridge.
I think this is and issue with the ejector. if you hand cycle the slide and it ejects it is an issue with the recoil spring/guide rod/loads. if it will not eject by pulling the slide all the way back by hand, it is an ejector issue.
-
I can tell you its an extractor issue. Here is why. Manually cycling the fire arm the extractor drops the round have way out of the barrel head. When this happens it don't come in full contact with ejector causing the round not to eject properly. I wish I had a high speed camera and I would just frame by frame it and it would show the problem real quick..
-
so you are saying the extractor is not holding the casing on the way back? did you check to see if you have brass/junk/crud in the extractor hook? I was under the impression that the extractor was holding the cartridge case all the way back. if the extractor is dropping the case before it gets to the ejector, you have an extractor problem. check to make sure you don't have junk stuck behind or in the extractor hook. also check to see if you can see a broken extractor.
-
The Extractor is clear of debris and the spring is functioning as it should. I hit it with an air for good measure and worked the spring for a good 10 mins. Everything seems as it should be.. it just don't work. I will be calling ruger on my lunch and getting an RMA number and hopefully get the gun in the mail today.
-
Your call to Ruger sounds like the best medicine. Let us know what happens.
