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What do y'all do to rusty traps to get rid of the rust? My mentor said that he burned them to keep rust off. I painted mine but it don't last. I am talking about conibear style traps that are used under water on muskrats, otters, etc. BTW, my mentor passed away recently before I had a chance to pursue this question. If any of you burn them, what exactly do you do?:confused:
I have always just dyed and waxed my traps, even connibears, but i have never used them underwater, only legholds. Logwood dye is supposed to keep them from rusting, then a layer of beeswax to protect and lubricate and protect. Just melt some wax carefully, dip the whole trap in it for a minute or so to warm the trap up so only a thin layer of wax stays on them, then hang them up to cool is how i was taught to do it!
Hope that helps you!
same here i used to make a walnut dye in the fall from walnut hulls
i picked up in the park. and waxed them get a big pot fill with water
bring to a boil with the hulls. put traps in and wax in will float on top
let soak pull traps out
To dye and wax a large quantity of say 25-30 dozen would take a 3 day weekend for my brother and I. We would have at least 2 30gal. barrels of water 3/4's full with about a 1/2 5 gal. bucket of green walnuts boiling to be able to do that many the first day with wood fires. Second day would be for inspecting and repairing. The third day we would wax then. Same 2 30gal. barrels with clean water boiling with the white wax melted on top surface with wood fires. Put 2 or 3 doz. traps in at a time, heat them up and pull out slowly, hang to cool and dry for a day or 2 then start making $$$$$$$$$. The dogs and triggers would have to be cleaned but we did that as we sat them out.
Thanks, I know it isn't going to be as easy as it is written.
I do not worry about rust on conibers you use in watersets. Take a wire brissle brush and clean them up before season and after, if you try to burn them you may take the temper out of the steel. For the matter I do not worry about rust on any of my traps,I use the dye that you mix with gasoline and a light coat of rust is good for the dye to stick to!
do like is stated to not burn them .conibears just do as stated to dip them and then air them out and foothold dye and wax .Quote:
Originally Posted by jnovotny
Youcan dye your conibears but dont wax them or youll be scrapping the triggers alot on the conis i use the trap dye you mix with gas just dip and give them a few weeks for the smell to go away and your good to go .Or use walnut hulls or logwood dye.
Citirc acid from canning section of your local grocery will tear that rust upo and wont hurt the metal.
im getting into trapping this year so im buying peoples well used traps. some have dye on some dont. some are rusty. i dont have a shed yet for trapping probably next year if i like it. but i think im going just to paint my traps this year. going to be mostly be doing coon trapping on land.
Paint does wear off, but its a quick fix. Dye lasts soooooo much longer on traps.
[QUOTE=farmallcrew;2250471]im getting into trapping this year so im buying peoples well used traps. some have dye on some dont. some are rusty. i dont have a shed yet for trapping probably next year if i like it. but i think im going just to paint my traps this year. going to be mostly be doing coon trapping on land.
Alot paint there conis and dye and wax there footholds. As for me I drip my conis in gas mix and dye and wax my footholds. As for buy used traps check the springs to make sure they have some life still in them otherwise you will need to replace them .and have some rust on them will not hurt if you dye and wax them that way the dye and wax will hold better. make sure you clean the dog and trigger on the contact point other wise you will not be able to set the trap . You do not wax conibears . you paint or cold dip them.
Way back when I trapped for a living when the season started a rusty trap was a scent free trap. Rust was not an issue.
We would boil the newtraps, then let them dry , then while still hot dipt them into very hot water with a layer of beeswax on the surface of the water (or beef tallow if we were trapping coyote).
The rust on the older traps did not seem hurt the function of the traps. I still have some of my traps after 45 years and they still work very well.
Do a Google search for "electrolysis rust removal".
Easiest/safest way I know is what I use. Soak 'em in white vinegar and the rust will come right off. Regards, Woody
i do a lot of blacksmithing, dont burn them that is like dipping them in salt water it just encourages rust. metal car lasts for decades bbq grill 2 years if you have good luck! i dont set mine in the water just on game trails and in the mouth of hollowed out logs/tree stumps, i paint them and sand/polish the latch area real good. seems like the ones with some rust are the more productive ones any way as long as ya keep the dawg/latching point smooth- a little WD40 on the dawg and latch point doesnt hurt
As for rust removal, if you live in areas with lots of hardwood trees , if you can find old mud holes with the rotted leaves of hardwoods in it , just bury your traps in the black muddy water for about a week , the acid from the leaves will shine the rust right off in short order.. doesn't cost you a penny, then dye and wax as usual. If you can't find the blackwater mud holes just rake up a bunch of hardwood leaves and submerse in a bucket or barrel of water and when the water takes on a black tint, put your traps in the mix and keep checking them for the desired finish.
Absolutely foolproof, best method....Quote:
Originally Posted by woody1
If you really want them rust free, I would not myself. Buy some molasses at a feed store or feed mill. What you buy at these places will contain sulfur and do the job much faster than what you buy at the grocery store. A 8 parts water to 1 part molasses solution will work great. I would make a 5 gallon bucket of solution if you just have 110's and small leg holds, a large tote or half barrel would be needed for larger traps and or larger amounts. Wire all the trap chains together so you can agitate the traps once a day until rust free. It will take three days I would guess. I preferred petroleum based dye for my traps, but would due this after season so they had all summer to air out. This solution does not go bad so keep it if you will need it. I have heard of people just keeping a barrel full of it and keep the lid on sealed when not needed.