Does anyone have a source for mould block to handle screws for H&G moulds?
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Does anyone have a source for mould block to handle screws for H&G moulds?
I had a similar need a while back, and removed the needed screw from a mould I had. Took it to a local Tractor Supply Store, and first threaded the screw in their little thread-checker to find the size and pitch I needed, followed by seeking a plastic bag in one of their many drawers for the correct length. In my case, the choices were a tad too short -- nogo -- or, a tad too long which was remedied with a few hack-saw strokes upon getting back home. Worked for me.
I believe several vendors also purvey these, specific to moulds. I'd check with a VS on this site, KAL (Red River Rick ) if he may have some, too.
Good luck!
geo
It won't be original but a 1/8 X 3/4 in roll pin and a 10-32 X 1/4 in set screw will work. Another member suggested this as an alternative to the original screws interfering with my mold guide.
I did what Lightman suggested for a 4 cavity mold. the old screw heads protruded from the bottom of the mold. The roll pin and set screws tool care of that.
Does anyone know what the thread size is on those screws? Red River Rick might be able to help.
I have a few 10 cavity H&G molds and would like to have a few new screws if anyone can find them. About 5 years ago I looked everywhere I could think of for these. I believe they even have a special name. Seems like they were more common in years gone by than today. If anyone can locate a source please PM me.
Thanks,,,,Floyd
Floyd:Quote:
Originally Posted by floydboy
I am looking to work with Red River Rick (KAL) on the Vendor Sale part of the board. Go over there and leave him a note also. maybe we can get together and he can do a run of them? Kind of like a group buy?
The sprue plate hinge screw is 5/16 but a finer thread than NF . The handle screws I'm leaning towards maybe a 12-24 ?
I just worked one over and this will give me an excuse to turn the handles over .
I make mine from 10-32 1.5" socket head machine screws I get at the Home Depot. The barrel shape of the socket head will chuck up in your drill. 2 nuts locked on the thread will limit the travel of your file. The minor diameter of the thread is the same (or close enough) as the smooth end of the handle to mold screw. Just a hint of the oxide coating on the smooth shank will be remaining. Cut the minor diameter shank to .7" long. With a 1.5" screw you probably only need to file a little off the end. The remaining threads should be about .45" long. I cut the head off the screw with my Dremel so there's about 1/8" of the major diameter screw shank remaining so I can cut a slot for the screwdriver. Each screw takes about 10-15 minutes to make depending on how steady my hand is. Those Dremel cutoff wheels can be a pain sometimes.
I have a number of the original round head screws I could cut down but save for the next caster. If they're buggered up they are fair game for modification.
I put a small amount of copper anti-seize on all my mold screws and pivots for future removal. When my molds get doused with WD-40 for storage the baked on copper anti-seize doesn't get washed away. I've had a heck of a time getting screws, setscrews and pins out of molds. Separate pins are fine unless they get damaged somehow while in the mold.
I have several H&G molds because I think they are as good as you are going to get. One mold I acquired had the handle screws broken off. I was able to successfully remove the broken screws from the mold. However that left me a good mold, but no way to attach the handles. I have been unable to find replacement screws so I decided I was going to have to make my own. Since then I have been replacing all the mold screws on all my H&G molds with stainless screws.
The changes I have made are replacing the proud handle screws that protrude from the bottom of the mold so they are now flush. Flush the set screws that hold the sprue screws. Changing the sprue bolt to a hex cap screw. Changing the sprue shoulder stop screw to an aircraft spline flange screw, so there is more bearing surface on the sprue plate.
It's no quick process as I am altering existing screws. The handle screws have to be turned down to fit, and the sprue stop screw is an expensive aircraft screw, which very hard stainless. I have only one US made die that will cut the stainless threads and when it dulls or breaks it was too expensive to replace and the Chinese stuff won't cut it. I can help a few fellow casters out if you need a set of 4 cavity H&G mold screws. I would guess about $16 would cover expenses for a set of screws if you are interested just PM me. But please understand I have made screws for my H&G molds and they fit great, but this grand old company was in operation for a number of years and things changed. The mold blocks I have seem to be uniform, but that may not be the case for everything. I will also be doing stainless screws to replace the screws on my H&G 2 cavity molds, in the near future.
I did exactly as lightman said on my H&G 4 cavity molds.
Drop a 1/8 X 3/4 roll pin through the handles and secure with a 10-32 X 1/4 set screw.
It works perfectly. No protruding screw head.
My largest H&G mold is a 4 cavity. I`m not sure if the handle screws for larger molds are the same....dale
Hensley & Gibbs sure made some purty screws....
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