#2 Remington Rolling Block vs Uberti Model 1871

Do any of you have an Uberti 1871 rifle like this:

Attachment 92478

I've seen comments indicating that it is a faithful reproduction of the #2 Remington rolling block. Besides the stock and brass trigger guard, it looks correct. I'm interested in the internal parts in particular. I have an original #2 that is in typically well worn condition. The breech block and hammer pins are a bit worn and I'm wondering if Uberti pins would work.

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...pse6381d31.jpg

Womack's doesn't show them as available on their web site. If anyone has an Uberti, would you mind measuring the exact diameter and length of this pin? Any other thoughts on parts interchangeability - things like the sear and springs? Thanks - Steve

I just made new block and hammer pins for my #2. Whatever the nominal diameter of replacements are, the wear on the pins and their holes in an individual rifle is going to be unique to that rifle, its use and/or neglect.

Somebody, either here, or on the ASSRA site, found a vendor of those weird springs that hold the #2 trigger and breechblock in place. You'd need to do a search. I got a replacement from VTI for the Uberti Baby Carbine that fits the #2 and works OK. Doesn't snap the block in place as smartly as an original, but it does the job and fits in its place.

Good point about the wear of both parts. From what I've seen on a number of rolling blocks, the hammer or block is harder than the pins and its the pins that wear the most. But I agree that wear can occur on both parts. Glad to hear the Uberti #2 trigger spring works. Mine's ok for now, but that indicates that they did follow the original design. I just saw that Numrich lists new hammer and block pins for the #2 and they are available. At $6.15 each, its worth a try.

I remember reading somewhere that the pins and holes are a different size between the Remington and Uberti. I do not know for sure if that is a true statement or not, but it makes sense to me due to Remington measuring in inches and the Italians using the metric system. Kind of like the inch pattern and metric FAL's.

I have also read that the breech block of the Uberti can be used to convert a Remington to centerfire, so who knows?

I have not heard of anybody actually having both rifles on the bench at the same time to test interchangability.

I would go with pins from Numrich, first choice; or get someone local with a lathe to turn custom fitted ones, second choice. The pins look pretty simple on mine.

I wouldn't mind finding a few NOS Remingtons for about $25.00 apiece.

Robert

Are these just straight dowel pins? If so McMaster-Carr has metric and imperial dowel pins, plus oversize and undersize dowel pins. Something is likely to fit.

Thanks gus. I ordered a set of pins from Numrich, so I'll see how they work. Oddly, the Numrich hammer and block pins each had a different part number. In my experience with others rollers and this one, the pins are the same. Maybe its just for their tracking purposes.,

These are straight pins, but the have a lip at one end to keep them from slipping out.

To really get it right you need to measure both the breech block and hammer and their respective holes and you more than likely will have to make up a lap to get everything round and respectively the same size then you can make new pins out of drill rod. HT and polish to size wanted.

I make em out of grade 8 bolts. turn them down to proper size on a lathe, any machine shop could do it if the ones you get don't work.

I would make them out of something softer then grade 8 bolts or drill rod. I would rather have the pins wear then the hammer and breach block.

You may want to contact John King, gunsmith, in Montana. He built my RB.

I got he rilfe all apart and cleaned up. It was filthy inside. The new pins are on their way from Numrich. Here is the rifle layed out. For any of you who have an Uberti, how do the parts compare visually?

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...ps92f0c28b.jpg


http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psc6c4aef3.jpg

One part I was concerned about was the stirrup for the hammmer that was missing from my #2. It must have broken some time in the past and someone just removed the broken pieces and let the main spring bear against the recess in the hammer. I dug around my parts boxes and found an 1863 Springfield musket tumbler with a stirrup on it. It was too large in all dimensions, but a good bit of filing, measuring and fitting made it suitable for the #2. One less part I have to look for. Its not pretty, but it works just fine.

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8f6458cf.jpg

I would polish until the parts are mirrors, then heat and treat with Froglube. No more worries about rust and lubrication in the future. But that's just me.

Frog Lube ??????

Froglube. A protective lubricant that is FDA certifed safe. Kind of expensive but when applied correctly prevents rust/corrosion while not attracting dirt. This stuff was developed for the the sandbox. Once the parts have cooled and the excess is wiped off, parts are dry so that sand or dirt have nothing to stick to. Yet due the very small molecular structure of the lube, the parts are lubricated because the lubricant is embedded in the molecules of the metal. If you shoot enough to get your metal hot, you will again see the froglube as a wet lubricant until the parts are cool again.

It does a VERY good job on my muzzleloader and my ARs and pistols. Again, rather expensive though.

I have wondered how it would perform as a bullet lube mixed with bees wax?

Drummer, where does one get this Frog Lube , and thanks for the post , concho

Found it on Amazon ! Thanks Drummer .

I have a rimfire #2 that I have most of the pieces gathered up for conversion to centerfire. A couple of them are Uberti Baby Carbine parts and they are the same or very close and need a bit more fitting, but I did not get new pins and don't know if they are the same dimensions.

I wanted one more part from Uberti and found out they are discontinuing the model; so parts availability is iffy now and nil in the future.