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Im looking for a non flammable 50 cal wad to put under a Lee REAL Boolit so i can start pushing the powder charge for elk season. I shoot in alot of dry brush and would like to avoid starting any fires. Was hoping someone could point me to the best material, ideal thickness, and what I should be lubing her with.
As long as the wad is lubed, does matter if its felt, veg fiber or whatever, if its lubed it should no smother.
circle fly -if it was me, I'd try he over the powder card in the correct diameter - goggle 'em.
You could melt some of your lube in a plastic dish in the microwave- drop them in and then take them out with tweezers - pat dry with paper towel.
Or - if you have a 1/2" punch - check Harbor Freight- you could punch some out of 1/8"or about that thickness of leather. I do leather work and use a punch to do that with my scraps - I do the microwave melt - toss them in the melted lube and remove and pat with paper towel - put 'em in an old Altoids tin. I use them in my cap and ball revolvers in place of felt wads - never had anise with "smoldering wads", etc.
Just as a side note - I'd probably be more worried about what flame and burning powder is coming out theendof my rifle if hunting in dry tinder conditions. You know the terrain you are hunting in better than anyone though so I'm confident that you take that into consideration.
Good luck with the wads and good luck hunting! :-)
Id had some issues running PRB with too tight a wad and they were smoldering and put a halt to shooting last summer, and also shoot some black powder 12ga and the plastic wads like to do the same but it is used for my winter rabbit gun so no worries there. I just wasnt sure if there was a trick to it before i started lubing felt and loading them, 50/50 beeswax/veggie oil is my lube of choice, is there another grease i should be considering for the wads?
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I'd punch some over powder wads out of automotive gasket material, or buy some pre-made Walters Wads:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...ds-bag-of-1000
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boise - I understand your concern. I have also stopped shooting some summers when it was really dry here in MI due to patches with RB smoldering. I'm just curious and have no knowledge oneway or another, but have you tried the REAL with you heavier loads to see what they do? I have some REAL molds but just have never played with them to speak of. Seems like they would still shoot with no issues with a heavy charge but again, I haven't tried them.
And - depending upon the rifle or smoothbore, some just seem to shoot better with an over the powder card. I have a 20 Gauge Flint Fusil-de-Chasse and my brother has a 20 Gauge Flint NW Trade gun. Same brand of barrel, same size RB. His shoots better with an over the powder card and a patched ball than without the card. Mine? It shoots better with just the patched ball. Go figure . . .
Your lube should be fine. I use a 50/50 mix of Crisco (unsalted) and beeswax and have for fifty years. If the weather is going to be warm, I can always make a small batch and add little more beeswax to stiffen it.
My theory is this - and it may not be worth a hoot - but with patches - you are using a natural fiber that is woven. Even if woven tight and lubed, there are minute spaces between the threads of the weave which, when fired, can "catch" the heat/flame and thus smolder. Also, the circumference of a patch - whether pre-cut or cut at the muzzle has fiber ends that can catch the flame easily and smolder. A "card"- such as a commercial over the powder card or one punched out of leather, etc., has a higher degree of compressed fibers that won't catch flame as easily.
Just because I'm curious - I'd like to hear how the accuracy is out of your rifle with a REAL boolit comparing an un-carded base with one that is carded - using your heavier hunting load.
Good luck!
An old-time favorite is paper from a jug hornet nest. Look for a stump that has hatched, as a full nest is occupied and dangerous. This paper is also excellent in black powder shotguns. Either gun, just wad up a pinch and stuff it on top of the powder. Doesn't burn, and cushions the projectile nicely.
fwiw, i use grease lubed (beeswax/mutton tallow/parffin) patched balls and they can smolder.
you'd want something that's guaranteed not flammable and that means nothing that can burn (any form of wood or most fabric products), which also means no lubes or greases. punched out LDPE wads, as used with BPCR cartridges should work fine.
the notion of the fireball emanating out the muzzle from a hefty load will be of concern as well.
just a TEN grain blank load of 3f ...
http://i.imgur.com/0Kxk1N3.jpg
I use 'blown in' insulation, over sprayed with PAM 'till it's just cohesive. In my .375 bore smooth rifle I use an marble sized wad between two cards, then ball or shot, then card.
Cheers,
R
I put patches behind my R.E.A.L.s when I fire. I find I do not get the best accuracy without. I simply crumple a patch for a round ball, stuff it down the bore, load the R.E.A.L. and fire. To date, I have not seen evidence of burning on any patch. I figuire the patch is ahead of the flame front so any flame contact is minimal. That also tightened up the pattern of the R.E.A.L.s. Brought the group tighter. The first time I shot my castings, I also used Clover for lube compound. I did five rounds with Clover. Made it easier to load.
Try Nomex cut to wads, from my old uniforms lube with whatever. They don't burn supposedly
HDPE
High Density Poly Ethylene
Milkjugs or what not.
Works a treat as a (hard) wad and wont burn at all.
I punch old powder jugs :-)
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