Removing stuck case from chamber? How to do??

Savage with broken extractor. Fired case seized in chamber. 6.5 Creedmoor. How to get stuck case out??

Already destroyed cheap cleaning rod trying to knock case out. Have gun at home now and starting to treat with penetrating fluid, PB blaster and WD blue freeze penetrant.

Am I off base to get a .25 solid brass rod to use to dislodge.

How about a "puller" type extractor like Brownells, Redding, RCBS, Hornady, Lyman, etc....

Live in rural area so can make list of parts/stuff to get when go into town or on line.

Any and all suggestions welcome.

Thanks for any suggestions. 10ga

PS: if this is covered here previously just post a link.

Pour the stuck case in the chamber full of Cerosafe.
Than tap it out with a cleaning rod.
If you are really carefully , you can do the same thing with Epoxy.
But put some kind of release agent on all parts except the inside of the case.
The biggest mistake people make doing it this way is by using too much wadding as a stop for the casting material.
That wadding acts as a cushion when you try to pound out the casing.
And be super carefull that you only fill the seperated case with the epoxy.

With just a broken extractor the case should fall out on it's own. Since the case had is not separated cerrosafe or epoxy is not beneficial. The first question is why the extractor failed and why the case is stuck? Normally a undersize brass rod dropped from the muzzle will remove it. If not you may have bigger issues.

I would use a 1/4 in. brass rod to knock the case out. Then I would ask WHY it stuck. Do you have a rough chamber? I have repaired several Savage and Remington new guns with chambers so rough the fired cases would not extract. Was your cartridge a HOT reload? If so you know what to do, back off on your powder.
As said by others your fired case should literally fall out. Need to know why it is stuck.

Larry

Usually a case fired when the extractor broke is easy to get out a rod down barrel or light pull with a screw driver takes them out, most will fall out. I have to ask did the extractor break from use or from an over pressure round? If you can see the case head is the primer flattened or pierced, the head stamp ironed out? The 1/4" brass rod 3'-4' long may do it having more mass to tap with. I usually order brass from online metals, can buy by the foot and comes right to your door. other wise local machine shops, Hardware stores tool shops may have it

The local Lowe's here have brass rods. Around $6.00 for a 3' section if I recall right.

Does the rifle have a threaded muzzle? Saw a video where a guy used a threaded cap with a grease zert to remove a stuck case. Used a high pressure grease gun to fill the barrel with grease and eventually pop out the brass. Look for the video on YouTube under “Johnny’s Reloading Bench”.
On second thought, since it’s a Savage, can’t you just remove the barrel and use the RCBS stuck case remover to get it out?

Really don't need a brass rod if your careful a steel rod (cheap all thread is easy to find)and wrap some tape around it every 6-8 inch the length of it should be just fine ain't like your pounding on it with a 5 lb hammer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RU shooter

Really don't need a brass rod if your careful a steel rod (cheap all thread is easy to find)and wrap some tape around it every 6-8 inch the length of it should be just fine ain't like your pounding on it with a 5 lb hammer

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I second this approach. I used a cheap smooth steel rod wrapped with painters tape when I was doing a chamber cast via the pounding method. I wasnt able to find a brass rod at the time. The Sav 1899 (made in 1907) still shoots MOA or less @100.

SUCCESS! Got the case out easy. Overnite soak with the WD 40 "blue flame" penetrant and some PB Blaster. Applied on case base with muzzle down for a couple hours then same applied in muzzle with muzzle up for a spell. Overnite and this am with 3-4 hour rotation. Got 1/4 inch X 36" solid brass rod from local Ace Hdw 9+$. down bore and 2nd tap the case popped right out. Wipe the chamber and clean up gun and now back to range. Thanks to all for suggestions and insight. 10

I've had success removing cases stuck in sizing dies by placing the whole thing in the deep freeze. The brass shrinks more than steel as it cools down and often pops right out.

Be sure to look at your case and try to determine what caused the case to stick so hard.
Look for shiny spots on the case or visable damage.
Also inspect the chamber really good.

All the stuck cases were from a batch that were "annealed" by a buddy. Had a great mix of many times loaded and needed annealing cases.

Only the Norma and Prime cases have been a problem!!

FC = Federal, Jag, Winchester, Nosler, Herters and Hornady cases = no problems.

Most of my brass is "pick up" from the range. I size and load and when show signs of hardening get them "annealed". I separate by headstamp and track use, once fired, 1st reload, 2nd load, etc.... Batches as small as 10 cases. Ziplock bags make tracking easy.

From now on Norma and Prime will be used to end of life B 4 annealing and then into the brass bin to recycle. No annealing for those brands.

Reflects my experience and opinion. Others will be different. 10

Your buddy needs to learn how to annealed properly.

I need to do it myself. It is a good cold weather indoors winter activity. Do you anneal with a solder torch or in the oven? I use the stand up and tip over system and have had no problems.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 10 ga

I need to do it myself. It is a good cold weather indoors winter activity. Do you anneal with a solder torch or in the oven? I use the stand up and tip over system and have had no problems.

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You can not anneal in an oven with adversely effecting the case head. If that's what your buddy did they are now scrape metal.

Some basic info here https://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

I use this http://www.bench-source.com/id81.html

Also, Dry ice or liquid nitrogen can be your friend :)
Mike