Tighten Mold Blocks On Handles?

I have two Lee .358-158RF 2 cavity molds that I bought about 5 years ago. Since the very beginning these molds have been absolute "Rock Stars"! They work perfectly!! Open the mold, boolits fall out, fill, repeat. Using them in tandem it doesn't take long to cast a bunch of boolits, but it is about all I can do to keep up the pace. I'm not complaining!

But, the block-to-handle fit is awful! When open, the blocks hang about 15 degrees off vertical. Left as they are I have to manually align the blocks while closing them. Does anyone know of a way to fix this?

If not really too much of a pain, I'd just leave well enough alone. If they close good and line up on the pins. That's all that really counts.

If it ain't broke don't fix it works for me.

Yeah, you guys are probably right. If all my molds were as trouble free as these two are I'd be in casting Heaven!

Get a 6"-8"pioece of 3/4" angle iron and set on your bench wide vee down and simply lightly rest the blocks on it when closing the straight narrow edge alighns the block nicely and quickly. I do thois with my noulds as it greatly lessens the pin wear on the blocks rough alighning them like this.

On molds with screw on handles, I find a piece of metal shim stock the right thickness and drill a hole for the handle screws to go through.
Easy fix, BUT...The Lees have press fit pins.

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Originally Posted by country gent

Get a 6"-8"pioece of 3/4" angle iron and set on your bench wide vee down and simply lightly rest the blocks on it when closing the straight narrow edge alighns the block nicely and quickly. I do thois with my noulds as it greatly lessens the pin wear on the blocks rough alighning them like this.

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Brilliant idea! Thanks country gent!

I have found that with Lee six-cavity molds and the excess slop between the handles and the blocks, the alignment pins, if not great pain is taken to close the blocks cautiously, the male pins will miss the female side slightly and contanct the soft aluminum of the oposite block instead of centering into the female steel pin. My style of casting is to produce as many bullets as possible in the shortest amount of time (I would rather be shooting than casting). Therefore, caution when closing the blocks slows my production rate. Therefore, I have drilled and tapped the handles between the screw hole and the end of the steel handle on both sides. I have inserted a set-screw and have taken-up a small amount of slop. The handles need some slop in them and the blocks to close correctly, but with the set-screws in place and screwed slightly proud, the excess slop is removed and the male pins always find the corresponding female side without the danger of striking the aluminum block itself.Attachment 204368

I have shimmed my early brass moulds to the handles to remove slop. These blocks were made before the put the steel bushings in for the alighnment pins like they do now. Its easy enough to do and several ways to do it. The easiest is to mount the blocks and use a feeler gage to see how much clearance is there then subtract .005 from this and cut a shim with the screw hole in it I make them the width of the handles and length of the blocks. Another is to measure the handle cut in the blocks and the handles ( measure in several places as most handles are stampings or forgings and may vary a little across the surface. Subtract groove width from handle width and another .005. I have been going to experiment with a flat spring type shim that would allow free movement but due to the shape would hold in position with almost no movement.
I use a flat edge to rest the bottom of the mould blocks on when closing, this pre alighns the blocks nicely for me. A piece of 1" X1" X 8" angle iron setting conviently wide side down works well for this. I use a paint roller pan to catch bullets and the rolled front edge also works very well. Any flat smooth surface works for this and it does help with alighnments.
In use I set the blocks on the rail and close them, close the sprue plate and give the right side handle 2 light taps to insure they are closed. Set over pot and fill.

I was thinking shims too... maybe very thin washers?

I cut mine from starret shim stock I have a selection of it here from my "misspent" youth as a tool and die maker. I have thought about a flat spring bent iin a shallow v but onmy moulds would have to open the slots up for the to have one heavy enough to work right.