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I have a rolling block I am working on, the more I spray it with oil, the more rusty oil comes out. I am going to take it apart, and soak the parts and action, with a solution to hopefully kill the rust. I have had good luck using white vinegar, anyboy else have solution they would care to share.
I'd be patient and keep doing what you're doing, even after its taken apart.
Then just keep it oiled after you're done.
The oil is slowly but surely soaking through, and getting the rust out, loose stuff first.
Its not adding to it.
If you put chemicals on it, sure it'll work.
But it might also come out looking like someone had been hacking around on it,
and destroyed the natural patina that always comes with age, no matter how well was cared for.
Citric acid will kill the rust and wont attack the parent metal .Here in Australia we can get it in the cooking isle of the local suprr market .It will leave a blackish finish which can be wiped off .It will also passivate the surfaces which will leave a grey patina that helps to stop further rust forming .If you are going to reblue ,then you can polish the surface in preperation .
I have use a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and mineral spirits on some rusted items. It seems to work for me.
I forgot to mention, I plan on hot bluing this in the near future, and probably with a matte finish.
I have watched a slew of videos on Youtube by Mark Novak, Anvil productions. He recommends boiling water, and since you have the facility - hot bluing tank, I'd say watch a few of them. Then he uses a carding wheel, not a wire wheel to take the converted rust off.
1. Soak your parts in Evaporust for 24 hours or so. Beware though, it will remove bluing.
2. Make an electrolysis setup with a 12 volt battery charger, washing soda, sacrificial steel and a 5 gallon paint bucket. This also removes bluing.
Each method will completely remove rust. I've done both, Evaporust is my favorite.
Take everything apart, boil or steam the parts then use a carding wheel or 0000 steel wool to remove converted rust. May take a few cycles if rust is bad. Soak finished parts in a diesel or kerosene a day or so. You have just converted the rusty places to rust blued places.
It seems like once something has "rusted" it will continue to rust,, sorta like a cancer.
That is not so,
From a Materials Engineering point of view,, when an item is new, and smoothly finished, it has a minimum amount of surface area.
When that item has rusted, the surface area has increased,, allowing more area to react.
The more surface area, the faster some particular item will rust.
The VERY best thing to do to minimize future rust, is to minimize the surface area.
In other words, sand the rusty area smooth, etc,,,.
(or never let the item rust in the first place,, but, that is water over the dam, if the part is rusted)
"Rust treatments" are actually chemicals that "pre-rust" the steel in a unique way,
converting the steel to a "stable rust", rather than a rust that flakes off.
Stable rust is basically the reason that aluminum seems to not rust, the aluminum changes to an oxide that does not flake off.
So, in conclusion, the best was to "stop rust" of a steel part, is to minimize the surface area of the part.
Thar ya go. Best and easiest solution.Quote:
Originally Posted by LIMPINGJ
I agree with Boiling the parts in Distilled Water.
That will convert the Red Rust to Black Oxcide.
That will stop the rust when dried and oiled..
But the parts may be still pitted or dark color.
But in the bore , you can polish things out to shiney with JB Bore Brite.
But it won't take out any putting.
citric acid seems to work faster than electrolysis ,and doesn't have the"line of sight".But electrolysis is more fun to watch work!