question about old mold

I have a very old iron mold for a 95gr 32 cal bullet. the blocks and handles are all one piece and the mold # is 313226, no other writing on the mold. Throws really nice bullet's and very accurate bullet's but hard to get the bullet to drop from the mold single cavity mold. Must be some trick to getting the bullet to let go? I've tried cleaning, but probably not with the right stuff. I've also smoked it. Just got done doing it again, cleaning with Hoppe's #9 this time. I love Hoppe's, I have bar soap scented with it! :-) Any other thing's I should try or just get a new mold? Lee make's a double cavity but it's a 311 dia. Thinking about trying it.

Normally its a simple burr or raised edge thats holding the bullets. Wipe the edges of the cavities with a q-tip if fibers pull of there is a possible area of issue. Rough surfaces can also cause this. Off center cavities can be a culprit also. Is the bullet sticking in the same half every time? Sometimes smoking helps use a match or butane lighter to do this its a drier soot than from a candle. Is the mould getting hot enough you didnt give alloy temps or how bullets are being poured. I would look over the mould with a magnifying glass ( cavites and faces) for rough surfaces and burrs. Then check with q tip along edges and cavities. Look at the grease grooves to make sure they are square or angled in the right direction. Under cut will hold bullets. Burrs will hold bullets. off center cavites will hold bullets. Depending on value of the mould ( some antique rre moulds are pretty valuable) a light lapp or polish with flitz or other very fine metal polish, ( not a lapping compound or abrasive) simichrome or even toothpaste on a bullet may help some. Take 2 good bullets and drill 3/16 hole in center of base blind hole dont break thru. glue a pin into hole and let cure. Coat this bullet with polish lightly and evenly. Insert into mould closing carefully in alighnment. with a t tap handle rotate like tapping a hole 1/4-1/2 turn back and forth 3-4 times, rothat 1/4-1/2 turn and repeat dothis for 2 rotations and try mould if better repeat with a new cast bullet. Watch the size of the bullet the polish will remove a small amount of material and .001 removed by the polishing ( thats alot of elbow work with the mentioned polishes) is .002 dia on the bullet. Polishing like this will change very little but does smooth rough areas and remove sharp edges and burrs.

Thank you very much!

That is a great design, I have a DC and use it in 32 S&W Long and 32 H&R Magnum.

Use a cotton Q-Tip and run it over the mould edges, any burrs will snag the cotton, if found , carefully remove. Clean the cavity with acetone , this will remove any residual oils, then spray the cavity , mould top and underside of sprue plate with Liquid Wrench DRY LUBE , it comes in a liquid also and can be applied with a Q-Tip...let dry a minuite and you will be amazed at how they release...just try it once. This works on Lee aluminum moulds too. Important...use the Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant NOT liquid wrench penetrating oil.
Gary

If you try the Q-Tip trick and get cotton fibers sticking use a magnifying glass to look closely at the area. If it is just a metal burr like a wire edge on a knife blade and simple lapping should remove it. Country gent has described lapping and more info here:

http://castpics.net/dpl/index.php/th...4-mold-lapping

well there would be if the plug in worked! Anyway, there is a good article on mould lapping. You really do not want to increase size, just remove any burrs.

If you see a "ding" in the edge where the cotton sticks then you may need to use a very fine jeweler's file or diamond hone to carefully remove the "ding", then lightly lap.

Burr removal should make a world of difference to the casting with that mould. That's my bet anyway.

Good luck and go slowly and carefully!

Longbow

Quote:

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Originally Posted by longbow

Country gent has described lapping and more info here:

http://castpics.net/dpl/index.php/th...4-mold-lapping

Longbow

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+1
I've used this method quite a bit. Put the nuts on the mold with the sprue plate out of the way, pour though the nuts and let them cool.
I've used a number of things on them: toothpaste, Clover 600 grit, rubbing compound (not sure this one did much)

I'm do the offending cavity, clean the mold with air and a stiff brush (let cool a bit) and try it again. Repeat as needed.

I find the casting session usually is just for this 'fix' and not for volume production but it is a quick and easy fix for me

I contacted Wiljen about the plugin not working but so far no fix it seems. I downloaded the info a long time ago though so could e-mail if you are interested. If so send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send a copy.

I have normally used this cast through the nut method for turning by hand or if I had a "lot" of metal to remove then I drill the boolit and run in a wood screw with the head cut off and use an electric drill to turn the lapping boolit.

In this case, casting through a nut and using a wrench to turn the nut/casting boolit would be appropriate if the mould just has burrs.

Longbow

One item not mentioned to have bullets drop from both halves is: take a razor blade and scrap all the vent lines