Want to go to the range tomorrow and haven't shot my Swedish rolling block yet. Have the Lee .515 sized to .510 but thinking about loading up a few to try her out. Thinking 40gr 2f, cornmeal fill and boolit. Think that will get me started...
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Want to go to the range tomorrow and haven't shot my Swedish rolling block yet. Have the Lee .515 sized to .510 but thinking about loading up a few to try her out. Thinking 40gr 2f, cornmeal fill and boolit. Think that will get me started...
I think it will get you started too. Are you using a reduced load because you do not want to deal with the recoil?
It will just be the first shots I've taken with it and just maybe being to careful but I can go up from there. I think the guy I got it from his friend tried to fire form 348 brass to make 12.7x44. My buddy said they bought 3 at the time 2 were the 8mm and one was purchased as a 50-70 some at some time it was probably rechambered which is what I've read some importers had done. The guy who had shot it has passed so can't talk to him. Sure it's fine but want a few reduced loads just to pull the trigger.
Many moons ago at a BP shooting in Sweden i noticed a guy with a RB and he used mouse fart loads, i mean 25grains of powder!
Said he couldnt take the recoil but man could he shoot.
And btw i have shot thousands of reduced loads with no fillers and have yet to see an ill effect.
It's a problem with short seated bullets in frontstuffers not in cartridge weapons.
I just took some measurements to check gun. Seems like a long way for the bullet to travel but the chamber is at 50-70 length and the rim fits perfect. I dropped the boolit in chamber than chambered the brass and it just grabs the end of the boolit and pulls it out. This might be normal but I've never really checked this stuff out before. Should I just seat at crimp groove or set it out.Attachment 207477Attachment 207478Attachment 207479Attachment 207480
That long jump may not be the best accuracy wise but will work and may be accurate enough for getting started. I agree, it looks like a very long free bore and not a Govt chamber, assuming the bullet is full diameter.
Maybe you could try seeing how far an unsized bullet will seat out. That might be the better diameter until you really see what you have there.
Can you pan lube unsized bullets?
Shh, you will incur the wrath of the keyboard experts.Quote:
Originally Posted by 17nut
Factory and arsenal both produced reduced loose powder rounds in untold amounts.
But, do we really want to go here? I guess I just did. [smilie=1:
I shoot muzzleloaders if I have to I'll smear lube on the outside before I shoot. Sized the boolits I had cast so will have to cast up some more. I know the chamber is long on the 8mm I have and still don't have that one dialed in yet. That one they seat the boolits bearly in the case may have to do that with this one. So the adventure begins....
Filler will serve a purpose,it cleans some of the fouling from the barrel each shot.It will also seal if the bullet is undersize for the bore.All military BP guns have plenty of space in the throat so you can still be shooting after firing 50 rounds.Which is the point of having a gun,not a sword.Plenty of BP lube ,and it doesnt matter where the bullet is seated,provided the case chambers ok.
The more i learn, the less i know!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill Wills
Made a trip to the range today but didn't have stuff loaded up and didn't want to get in a hurry and make a mistake. Hopefully tomorrow...40gr 2f elephant and 16cc lee dipper cornmeal.Attachment 207544
Our old friend Pachyderm powder is a reduced load all by itself. :grin: It was good powder but low energy. I still have some too. I like it for some things.
I'm confused!
Are you shooting .50-70 cases? (case length should be 1.750")
And your cases are 1.770" long? Is that right? That's 44.9mm.
With some/many of these Swede m/1867 its easy to tell if they've been rechambered to .50-70 by viewing the rim cut-out for fresh steel, as opposed to old blackpowder stained steel. Wish I would've kept the photo of the one that was re-chambered as it was clear as a bell it had been "cut" with a reamer recently.
Seat your bullet down into the case, not sticking out like that. You want to have some powder compression. Also use magnum primers.
I've shot .515" bullets with no problems in an unmodified m/1867. I've shot up to 75 grs FFg in mine.
Dutch
Who made your brass? That headstamp is huge. My Starline 50-70 brass headstamp is much smaller.
Brass is Dixie gun works from a long time ago. Thanks for the information Dutch always helps. The pic of the chamber above shows as much as I could get pictured. I measured to the step in chamber that's the 1.770 the case probably is 1.75 if you notice the gap between case and calipers. Not sure why I posted it that way probably because I've never really messed with this stuff before. Sure my terminology isn't even correct. After these rounds I plan on bumping loads up. Not supposed to rain here in nor Calif Sat so going to try to hit the range.
What range do you go to? I'm in Yreka.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lethemgo
Dutch
I live in Marysville so I usually shoot at the Oroville range. I do have a spot at a guys orchards that I can shoot at which is much more enjoyable but can't shoot as far. I'd love to come up and meet and shoot with you in a few months after I get a good starting load worked up for this Swede and my other 8x58rd.
Took the swed out into the orchards today. First time out with it and what a hoot. This load seems to be pretty go for a all around plinking round. Was just shooting a clay pigeons which took a while to hit but once aiming was a little figured out finally hit one or two. Shot really consistency by the trench that was dug by the misses. Can't wait to get out again and shot her for accuracy and put on paper.
The 12mm ( 50-70ish) are a lotta fun to load and shoot. Usual load for me is about 60Gr 2F and the Lee 450Gr sized to .510 ( that rifling still makes it come out looking like a Hex shape ). Oroville, I used to live way up north in Osoyoos