Lyman Mold Handles Too Tight

Inherited a set of single-cavity Lyman handles. They look as if they've never been used.

Probably the reason for that is they're so tight it takes a firm pair of hands to pry them apart. Looks to me like they must have come that way from Lyman, decades ago, and the owner didn't bother sending them back.

Today I called Lyman and got the old, "Sorry, we can't help you," response.

I've tried various lubricants, oils and even Kroil. Nothing so far makes the handles any easier to open and close.

These handles are put together with a large stud or rivet that's pressed over. Thought about trying to drill it out and using
a bolt or other fixture but that would be a last resort as I don't know the diameter of the connection and might end up skunked.

Any ideas on a fix?

Thanks
PBSmith

Just a hunch -- nothing more other than what I did and seemed to sort of work with similar handles. I used my oxyacetylene torch, and heated them to just-under-glowing temp, dropping the torch to enable moving handles back and forth repeatedly as they cooled. After cooling, I used Liquid Wrench brand penetrating oil -- Kroil was in cellar, and I was in garage... This did NOT make them as easy to operate as my other Lyman handles... but it sort of worked for me. Much better -- and usable -- than before heat. No promises, OK? But, if all else fails, it may be worth a try. Good luck!
geo

Instead of penetrating oil...try a little silicon spray.

redhawk

Sometimes supporting the handle pivot on a socket or piece of pipe that sets around the head on a solid surface then a few well place taps from a heavy hammer will loosen the head to give free movement. Those heads are more than likely formed hot and shrinkage the pressure all come into play.

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Originally Posted by country gent

Sometimes supporting the handle pivot on a socket or piece of pipe that sets around the head on a solid surface then a few well place taps from a heavy hammer will loosen the head to give free movement. Those heads are more than likely formed hot and shrinkage the pressure all come into play.

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It worked, Gent!

As long as I've got your genius engaged, would you mind disclosing the secret for keeping wooden handles where they belong on the iron extensions? I'm probably the only member on this site who doesn't know the secret. Better late than never.

Thanks George and Red, too, for your input

I drilled an 3/32's inch hole thru the wood handle, chrome shroud and steel handle just big enough to take a paneling nail. I drove the nail thru till the finishing head was flush with the shroud, cut it off on the other side and peened and filed both ends flat. I do this on every set of lee handles I buy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PBSmith

It worked, Gent!

As long as I've got your genius engaged, would you mind disclosing the secret for keeping wooden handles where they belong on the iron extensions? I'm probably the only member on this site who doesn't know the secret. Better late than never.

Thanks George and Red, too, for your input

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Never use them ! Handles will stay just where they should. Otherwise, don't let them overheat, stay back from pot when cooling, don;t pour lead over hinge pin, etc etc. That said, drill and pin them now while they are in place. What I do ? When they fall off, clean out the hole s best I can, file/grind a few notches in the stubs, slobber it up with high temp silicone and slap it together. Used to be able to get a muffler cement that was great. Can't find it in 20 years. Silicone seems to be working OK. LOL

Two part epoxy works for me. If a handle loosens I just switch it out for another, and glue the handle back on later.

Well Im a belt and suspenders guy here. I also do this a little different than most. I fit the handles and mark when seated to full depth with a wrap of tape. I then spot drill 3 blind holes down them on three side maybe a 1/8" deep, a groove cut with a dremil tools will do the same. clean and roughen handle mix epoxy JB weld works very good here. some in the handles hole and a layer on the extensions clan the excess off, but you want a lot to squish out confirms no air pockets. The spot or blind holes or grooves create a mechanical lock on the handles. Stand up handles down and let cure. Then drill for a 3/32" brass pin. Insert with epoxy and when cured peens ends over to a nice smooth head.
You now have handle glue bonded with a mechanical lock where the epoxy filled the blind holes or grooves and a pinned set up. The only way these will come up is if they burn off or split away.They make dry out and get loose from use but the mechanical lock and pin will only allow them to rattle a little

I've used epoxy to glue the handles on, but also have used high temp silicone, if I think I may want to remove them without damaging them. It's been years and the silicone hasn't come loose yet.

I use JB-Weld on all my wooden handles (probably 40 pair). I have never had it fail. Just gob some down in each grip with a popsicle stick and shove em back on the handle. The next day you are permanent.

I do this to Lee handles.

Attachment 230253

Gorilla Glue was recommended on a forum recently.I don't like Gorilla Glue but I bought a container of it and tried it on some loose and cracked Lyman handles.So far it's working.Just messy to work with.