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Can I get some advice and opinions on what kind of lube to use on moving parts of the lock. Especially, the screw that the sear pivots on. Maybe different things in different places. I’m into precision shooting, so want to get as smooth as possible. I have been using castor oil, partly because I have a free source for the amounts I use. Also works great for case lube.
Thanks
I use Super Lube, have the pen type dispenser. Easy to apply where you want it. Suspect any good lube would work as well.
I use Kroil. Thin and gets everywhere. Timney Triggers suggests washing with white gas and lubing with lighter fluid. Choice is yours. Check out L&R Locks to see what they recommend in a side lock. Good shooting.
Bob
I have a friend who says he uses nothing, but a little grease where the main spring rides on the tumbler. Does that make any sense ?
after a range session the flint lock gets pulled and set into a pail of plain tepid tap water, whilst i work on the gun's tube. later, the lock is removed from the water, excess water shaken off, towel patted dry, spritzed all over with wd40 which is then towel patted off. then, all the moving parts get a very tiny pin drop of quality high speed fishing reel oil (i use quantums "hot sauce" that has a needle applicator), the moving parts are exercised, done.
I can tell you've done this before...
I wash it in warm water and Dawn. Then blow it off and douse with WD-40. Then I let all of that drain off that will, and I hit the moving parts with some 3in1 machine oil from one of those little needle applicator bottles.
Graphite powder.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE
Even locksmiths recommend it for keyed locks because it's a dry lube.
And graphite powder also helps to protect BP lock parts from becoming sticky or gummy from black powder residue.
Does anyone else use graphite? I’ve thought about it too.
all those petros!
Keep it simple, a little bit of crisco or your favorite patch lube on the frizzen spring and lock internals and you're good to go.
There are a mind-blowing variety of good lubricants available for just about any job. I use whatever my hand happens to fall on when I reach for a can of lube. Some are maybe a little better than others in the minds of shooters. But then some like Chevys and some like Toyotas; take your pick.
I learned about it from a poster on another forum who touted using it on the internals of his cap & ball revolvers.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE
He swore by it as a manner of speaking.
My locks are only washed once a year. Barrels are indeed washed after each use.
After a wash & dry a all over cotton swab of Clenzoil in the beginning. Touching up those pins fly & sear once more: Warm months? Break Free. Cold months? Rem oil. A long standing practice with me.
I use Ed's Red.
3 in 1 oil, for my locks and triggers, or Rem Oil, or what ever light oil I have laying around. I’m not picky.
Hey Joe, hadn't seen you post in quite awhile!Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerrancher
Yeah Ric It has been awhile. Lot of Major life changes over the past five years. Most of which for the better. I am still running the 50cal Hawken flinter I got from 45Nut, and the old Northwest Trade Gun, as well as my little 32 cal Crockett. Every time I would go to a match with that Trade gun and beat the pants off the guys shooting rifles, I would remember all the advice I got from you. The last couple years I’ve been getting my butt kicked by a teenager. Younger eyes I am sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by waksupi
Best wishes
Joe
Glad to hear things are getting better. Young people should be required to shoot with their eyes closed to give us old farts a chance!Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerrancher
To get back on subject so far I've taken the lock out when I clean my rifle, scrub the innards with a toothbrush and Moose Milk, and then when it's dry hit it again with a tooth brush and wax. It still shoots quick and I've seen no rust so I guess it works.
I think any good gun oil wil be just fine. If you are into "precision shooting" I think you should be concerned with tuning your lock(s). On any new lock I get, I take it down to the bare plate, then smooth and polish the inner surface. Also round over any sharp edges on all moving parts. I then take a tiny bit off the inner edge of the main spring, sear and sear spring and the inner tumbler surface. The object is to remove as much friction as possible. Overkill? Maybe, but it speeds up the lock a lot! I use bear grease as lock lube because I have a bunch.