Lyman Lube sizer pressure nut trouble shooting?

My Lyman luber sizer works great until I have to add more lube. I have a terrible time removing the pressure nut. When I turn the pressure screw the pressure nut rises just as it should until its top is flush with the top of the tube, then it starts turning round and around and not rising. This is at room temperature (no heated lube). The only way I can get it out is to jam a screw driver against it to hold it in place and crank on the rachet quickly - it eventually catches and cranks it up high enough so that I can see the O ring and get a pair of pliers on it to hold it still while I turn it the rest of the way and get the nut off the top of the threads to remove the nut and add more lube. Then I have to put it back together knowing I'll have the same problem the next time.... Do I need to replace a piece (buggered threads?) any ideas for work arounds? Am I missing a step in the removal process?

Thanks in advance -

Mike

The pressure nut on my 450 has done the same thing for 40 years but I always just held with my fingers when it starts to turn at the top of the housing both for removal and reinsertion. You should not need pliers IMO. I would try some 3n1 oil on the pressure nut threads.

Mine spin when it gets to the top as well. I just have to hold it and it'll back all the way out if it isn't turning with the rod.

DON"T USE A SCREWDRIVER to wedge between the pressure nut and reservior tube, you'll wreck the tube.

OK, if the threads ARE buggered, it's time to "clean up" the threads or if you don't have the tooling to do so, replace the parts.

If threads aren't buggered.
-clean the lube from the threads
-use a penetrating oil on the threads
-put the sizer in the freezer, cold lube grips better

Lastly, one fix I'm starting to implement on my sizers for this type of issue, is when I have the pressure nut out, I grind a **** into the top, so I can insert a screwdriver to keep the nut from spinning when trouble arises...because, sooner or later trouble will arise again and again...it's the nature of that beast.
Good Luck,
Jon

Be sure not to grind your ****(sic) too deep or you'll get lube coming out of the top of the seal. 8-)

No Screwdriver required, and a bad idea. Here's how.
Grab the reservoir from the back as if to pick it up with your thumb pointed up. When the pressure disc gets to the top and begins to spin, press down on it with your thumb. This is what good/new O rings will do.
I doubt the threads are bad unless they've had a screwdriver treatment also.

Jeff

Replace the O-rings.

I tap the top of it and install small setscrew and hold that screw against my finger to prevent from turning.

The shaft, if it gives me problems and the pressure plug gives me problems I push the plug down then turn the screw from the bottom, if it continues to give me problems I push the plug down until it has pressure against it then turn the shaft, when the pressure plug is loose I use the shaft to push the plug up and out. Do not forget to remove the bullet lube machine from the bench. I have three, two work and one is for parts. It is so old it has Texaco long fiber wheel bearing grease in it, problem, when the grease is cold it is too thick to lube, when it is hot it is too thin.

F. Guffey

I got one of these: http://www.buffaloarms.com/Bullet_Ca....aspx?CAT=4467

Works terrrific in the 4500 and give you something substantial to pull on to add more lube. It also makes lubing more consistent from boolit to boolit.

I just press down on the pressure nut with a finger, that is enough to get it to grip and rise.

Don't think of it as a problem, just a foible of the tool.

Drill a small hole 1/8" deep in the top of the pressure nut and bend a piece of wire that fits in the hole and gives you a handle if you can't hold it with your finger.