Printable View
Waiting on my form 4 approval and I have a few questions. My can is a Griffin recce 7 mod4. It's not user serviceable. I was wondering if shooting powder coated bullets would be an issue with build up in the can? The powder I have on hand is cfe black. Was looking at palmetto projectiles but any suggestions are welcome.
If the coating stands up to being pushed down the barrel and slammed into a target, I don't see why it would be a problem passing through a can.
Post removed by user
Your going to leave more powder residue in the can than any pc. Don't worry about it.
Welcome to CastBoolits Jdutton24
It sounds like you'll get along great with us reloading addicts.
Love 300 AAC subsonic, no hearing protection required. I prefer shooting a single shot, it saves on ammo [smilie=l:
Just make sure the powder-coated boolits pass the smash test (smash the boolit on an anvil or chunk of steel with a hammer or? and if the coating doesn't chip or flake off you have covered your bases for the best possible result with PC.
Just got done converting a bunch of 223 brass into 300 AAC (there are several brands of brass that are to thick so do your research first)
Headstamps you may want to avoid:
ATI , PMP, CJ, NPA, PPU, MKE, S&B, FNB, FNM, S&B, IMG, RORG, RWS, TAA, CJ, Amerc, PRVI, HRTRS, KFA.
I found that almost all factory (once fired) brass cases are short, thinner and inconsistent in length.
For military brass, I recommend Lake City. I've never needed to thin the necks on 300BO that I've made with those.
I am looking at Leatherhead bullets. 220 gr. Those quality bullets? I contacted Griffin armament and they said as long as they are stable it should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grmps
Post removed by user
8.5 inch barrel with 1-8 twist. muzzle velocity around 1050. elevation is around 6-800 feet depending which town i shoot in.
I use a Lane serviceable suppressor and I found that when I shoot cast powder coated bullets I get some powder coat residue in the initial blast chamber of the can and a little bit less PC residue in each of the six baffles in succession. I'm not shooting subsonic so the results may very well be different if I were. Being that I can open her up and clean her out while I'm doing the gun clean up after shooting it's not a real problem if I get any residual powder coat sticking to the inside walls of the can. It's fairly easy to clean out with this type of suppressor. In fact, I bought it for the sole purpose of being able to shoot cast lead without having to wonder if the insides of the can was being caked with lead dust.
I'm thinking that at subsonic velocities you should be OK unless you shoot a whole lot of PC'd lead. Even subsonics are bound to leave something behind over time.
HollowPoint
I shoot subs thru a can out of a 10.5 AR platform.
No issues using hytek
I’ve run 500 or so soft-cast (12-14) powdercoated rounds through my Noveske 8” SBR with a Silencerco Hybrid (non-serviceable) in both semi and full auto. Inside of the can looks great. No worse than shooting FMJ (in my case, anyway). Whenever I finish with the coated bullets in .300, I swap uppers over to a .223 and run off a mag of full power FMJs with the giggle switch on. Cleans the subsonic powder fouling out of the can that you always end up with after shooting the slow stuff.
powder coating should not be too big an issue as it can just about be blown out with an air hose and a little solvent.. now if you was using the wax/Alox lube, now that can be a big problem.. easy to get a good 1/6 to 1/8 coating on the interior of the blast chamber after a couple hundred rounds with the wax stuff..that needs to be melted out if you cannot get into the can..
i soak my 5.56 can in a 75/25 mix of gm top end motor cleaner and shooters choice copper cleaner. Doesn't get it sparkling clean but keeps it from building up anyway. Learned my lesson though. No more cans that cant be taken apart to clean.
where can one get a mold like the one that is shown above by leather head?
Post removed by user