I've not used one of these but I think its pretty cool.
I'm going to make one when my lathe is functional.. soon.
Dutch
http://images39.fotki.com/v1236/phot...3124002-vi.jpg
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I've not used one of these but I think its pretty cool.
I'm going to make one when my lathe is functional.. soon.
Dutch
http://images39.fotki.com/v1236/phot...3124002-vi.jpg
GRIN. I have many of the one-off originals which I made over the winter back when. Took some time to get the right dimensions figured out so it would work for all centerfire cartridges. Glad to see someone who appreciates the simple, yet precision design, and good plan for this patent. Treated me well for many years.....and the good folks at Hornady seem to continue the tradition. Thanks for the post.
Tom (aka Stoney).
What the heck is it supposed to do? Breach seat a jacketed bullet?
I use it to set my seating dies. It gives you the OAL measurement of your bullet to the lands and grooves, then you subtract what ever jump you want to set your seating die. I have the Hornady curved version but would like a straight one as well, but they are kind of pricey so I'll stick to the curved one and use another method to get this if the curved one doesn't work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Cash
Isn't that special !
Seems to be another means of sapping my shooting money for a gizmo that is not needed.
While it looks like a nice piece of equipment and something fun to build, wouldn't it be just as functional to neck size a cartridge so there is light neck tension then seat a boolit or bullet out so that when chambered the boolit/bullet is pushed into the cartridge so setting the max. OAL which can be measured... then required clearance (jump) to lands set with seating die?
I'm a pretty simple old guy though so maybe I'm missing something.
Longbow
I have the original Stoney Point offering and have used it frequently. Really like it. I’ve learned other ways to get the desired results and they work too. When needed though I alway reach for the Stoney Point first.
In a quest for super accuracy.....I spent many hours (as did many others) using a candle to apply a light coating of soot to our bullets.....and then using the slit case method to insert a "dummy" case and bullet into the gun and try to extract this combination without disrupting the interface of the bullet and case to bore. Oftentimes we were left to average some degree of difference in doing this several times.....then go with our best guess of the results.Quote:
Originally Posted by longbow
WHY? ......if you have ever chased the elusive small groups needed for long range competition or prairie dog shooting at extended ranges.....or precision shooting at big game at long range......you may appreciate the need. In many guns bullet seating depth and the resulting "jump" to the rifling is of utmost importance to accuracy. Was then / is now. Breech loading guns have this one "flaw" in common.......that the jump to the rifing can and does make or break many loads. The old saw of "get the bullet seated close to the rifling and the gun will shoot" rings true to many of our experiences. OTOH....get the bullets too long and you may have trouble with sticking rounds in the gun. Not a good thing for a hunting rifle.
Then too.....some of these issues are compounded by tapered cases which may lay on the floor of the chamber....thus making the bullets un-aligned with the bore...and /or they may further be canted in the chamber by the spring tension of the extractor/plunger in the bolt.....and a host of other variables. Rather....a round that is of "proper" length (even though the brass may not be properly sized to fit the chamber) is somewhat "forced" into alignment via the bullet's impingement into the lead of the rifling and the bolt face.....thus affording better concentricity with the bore. A simple improvent for concentricity.
In any event....knowledge of this issue and others is proven to be fundamental to improved accuracy. ( I feel like a politician - grin).
I'm just another simple "old guy" too.......but we all learn from one another.
I've tried the slit case method too, but I always have to do it a few times because the bullet either gets stuck, or when it gets extracted it tilts and moves the bullet. With this tool, you gently push the bullet forward until it makes contact, then you lock the measurement in with the thumb screw. You know, I've never chased the single ragged hole, and mostly stuck with published COALs, that is until I started loading for wildcats. But to be perfectly honest, I like gadgets, even though I know the old school way to do things.Quote:
Originally Posted by longbow
I have one of the original Stoney Point sets and it would be about the last piece of equipment I would sell. I have dialed in several rifle with it and it never fails to give me an accurate seating depth when I do my part. I also use it to adjust my sizing dies. my experience anyway, james
Mine is the Stoney Point tool also, I think they are a great tool for finding Max C.O.L.for a particular rifle. I take three readings with one of these tools then seat a dummy round about .020 longer and see if it chambers. If not, I sneak up on it .005 at a time. I use this tool a lot. GpQuote:
Originally Posted by Ring3
Made my own about 10 yrs. ago. One tool I would not be without!
Larry
Hornady makes one that looks to be built on that patent. I use it to find the seating depth for my bench rest rifle.
Hornady also makes the cartridge case that is used with it.