AR15 trigger job help

Back quite a few years when I started shooting HP with the AR I remember doing a cheap no cost trigger job on my first stock rifle and want to do this again on the one I just got . I did the takeup set screw in grip screw hole that helped but she's still a very heavy pull I remember bending the legs on one or both of the springs but can't remember which ? Can anyone point me to a link or picture or walk me through it once again . I remember it helped with weight of pull greatly and didn't cause any light primer strikes at all . I googled trigger jobs but most tell to clip the one leg off the hammer spring and I know that's not what I did back then .

Thanks, Tim

Tim,

Bending both legs on the trigger spring will reduce the trigger pull. It will also reduce the reset. Don’t bend too much. A 30 degree bend is a good starting point. Start the bend about where the spring bottoms out.

Same for hammer spring. A slight bend where it sits over the trigger pin.

Keep the trigger and hammer tension in balance. You want good positive reset every time you release the trigger. A better way is to just spend the $10 for JP reduced power spring set, or the maker of your choice.

Lightly polishing the engagement surfaces with a fine stone to remove burrs helps some. As does lightly chamfering the sharp edges on engagement surfaces.

A milspec trigger can be made to work well at CMP service rifle limits. It’s takes effort and care. The shortcut is to just purchase one of the many superb after market triggers or send it off to a good shop that specializes in Service Rifle. Compass Lake Engineering and White Oak come immediately to mind.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rigger-job-diy

Get the JP reduced spring set. A take up screw and the reduced spring set can make a remarkably nice trigger pull.

Clipping springs is not a good idea. Besides the spring set is only something like 11 bucks and you can change them back and forth.

Not a big fan of messing with trigger mechanism on an AR, much more on clipping springs. Bending at some minimal degree may work fine but polishing (not grinding) contact surfaces will more likely to produce crispier trigger. Drop-in trigger assembly or spring set are always an option.

Agree
"Drop-in trigger assembly or spring set are always an option"
Why make a science project when there are many good and affordable options ?????
Said options are typically more reliable, and that must count for something.
Notwithstanding the better trigger which was the original goal.

:popcorn:

Thanks all I polished it up and tweeked the legs onthe trigger spring some that helped a good bit pull is still "firm" but crisp better than she was for sure .

Tim

I bought one of those jigs that you put your trigger guts into that lets you see the operation and measure the trigger pull. I polish the parts maintaining the same angles as they were new which generally results in a 1-1.5lb reduction in the trigger pull as measured before and after. I'm a firm believer in the Joe Bob stainless steel dual allen screw set that removes a heck of a lot of play.

There are other options...save the stock trigger parts put them in a zip lock bag and simply drop in a complete unit. I have done both and have both in my AR's.

best trigger job i did https://www.larue.com/category/parts...arts/triggers/

Trigger sets come in all shapes and sizes it just depends on how much you want to spend. Keep in mind to keep a stock trigger setup for when it hits the fan here.

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Originally Posted by 6bg6ga

Trigger sets come in all shapes and sizes it just depends on how much you want to spend. Keep in mind to keep a stock trigger setup for when it hits the fan here.

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I agree ft it was a competition rifle I would spring for a good trigger but it's a 350 dollar carbine so being the cheap skate I'm gonna make the stock parks work best they can