Printable View
I’ve been searching and I’m finding different opinions on a wad to fit a particular hull. I need help finding the dimensions of the Win AA CF and the HS hulls in 410. Many have said the wad they use works fine but that opinion varies so I’m looking for dimensions so I can tell for myself.
Thanks in advance for your time and effort.
It's frustrating to buy 250-500 and have them not work out. Maybe a request on the right board for someone to send you a few is the answer?
OK No clue as to where to get the dimensions
Unless you contact maybe Claybuster or Winchester
I do know the HS hulls have a straight hull and the CF ( AA ) type have a taper before the bottom
So I tend to stick to wads by Winchester or Claybuster as Winchester replacements
For their Hs hulls I use Claybuster 410HS wads and the AA hulls I use PC Orange wad
John
I agree with John. I only use Claybuster wads. Check their website for information on wads-to-hull fit. You will need to decide on a payload. If you have any questions, call them, they are an excellent source of information.
I use Downrange wads;
Give them a call Kevin will call you back.
Attachment 310061
Thanks for the info and leads.
I received this info and wanted to share.
The inside diameter of the HS hulls is slightly larger and we modified the CB5050-410HS wad to fit both the CF and HS hulls.
Thank you for contacting Claybuster wads.
Half Dog, I feel your pain. There is NO reference for internal and external dimensions of the various brands of shotgun shells in this high tech world of ours or wads either for that matter. I've been rolling my own shotgun shells since 1962 and in that time, the technology has changed but the documentation to go along with it hasn't. I just went through a "hoop jump" on loading some 20 gauge sabot slugs and was fortunate to luck up on the load I was looking for right off. Now, I'm working on 20 gauge #4 Buck loads and the wad that Lyman specifies is discontinued as well as many of the powders. Now, I can experiment around, waste money and maybe do some dangerous stuff unknowingly because I can't find loads I want. I know "Waaaaah! but it's frustrating.
It looks to me like the shell manufacturers would publish a diagram of their various cases with both internal and external dimensions and at the same time try to keep new loads published to keep up with technology and current powder and wads.
All you get on shotshells is "go by the published data" when you ask. I been doing that for 62 years now and the manufacturers are still acting like their data is Top Secret and controlled by "you know who" in Washington.
The cast and metallic world has advanced so much more that the shogun people over the years it's pathetic.
End of rant!
Hope you find your load./beagle
We compare wad usage in manuals to try to figure out which hulls are close. Get's tedious at best.
I measured all the wads I have with a set of calipers and built a table so I can compare using the manuals. Not precision but helps. Hard to do with hulls.Quote:
Originally Posted by missionary5155
The sad part is that the manufacturers have the dimensions on drawings to make their dies for forming the wads. Easy to publish and no great secret. Too easy to reverse engineer. Same with hull manufacturers. Would help us, the customer out./beagle
Howdy Gents. I have not been around in long time. Life just happens. Having reloaded for a long time now I am wondering what the problem is with wad fit? If it is a tapered hull in most cases you can substitute a straight walled wad. In straight walled hulls using a tapered wad you can simply and easily flair out the cup seal or just over use a thin nitro card over the powder between the powder and wad you are using. Been doing this for over 45 years. Of course I never start out with maximum blow you hair back hot loads. I have not loaded 410 in a while but I reload everything else coming and going down range. IRC Lyman 5th edition in the wad section says it is ok to use straight wads in tapered hulls. If you are concerned about pressures there are places to get them tested before you go into full production mode. Also depending on the powder you choose the powder manufactures web sites are the best place to get up to date reloading data IMHO. email is your friend.