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I'm looking at two different molds from accurate molds that look similar to the maxi ball mold. I'm wanting to shoot maxi ball in my traditions Shenandoah rifle in .36 caliber. These are the two bullet designs. Has anyone used these from accurate molds. Bullet design 37-130M and 36-130A. Pics with dimensions attached.
Attachment 291459.Attachment 291460
I can tell you that bullet fit is key to good accuracy.I cast for the 54 cal. version, although it is a t/c mold, but this exact shape. If i use pure lead, accuracy is so-so. But of I use lead with a tiny bit of tin and antimony, the group cloverleafs.
I have found that the Harder Bullets are harder to load.
But in most of my rifles that I used them in , the accuracy improved.
I've cast slugs for my .50 and 45. I use pure lead. Anyone use the above molds
Just looking, If I was to pick I'd go for the 130A. It looks to have a little more bearing surface, too they both appear to have the same size lube groove down by the base. I only lube that groove not the whole boolit
I've had the exact opposite result in 50 and 54 caliber. When cast of pure lead, they start shooting really well at higher charges of powder. With 20:1 alloy, I can't get them to shoot as well no matter what. Maybe if I went up to some crazy powder charges like 150-180 gr, it would work. I've tried with and without a felt wad. Pure lead, and heavy powder charges 110-120 gr shoots like a house on fire. Seems to shoot the same with or without a felt wad. 20:1 alloy, might get 3" groups at 100 yards, which isn't bad, but not as good as pure lead, which will average 1 1/2" with a scoped rifle.Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerhappy243
Concerning bullet fit, I've got a TC mold for 50 and 54 caliber. The 50 caliber is perfect. The bottom two bands just slip fit in the bore, and the top band engraves plenty. The 54 caliber has slop in the bottom two bands, and the top band barely grabs. The 50 shoots lights out, the 54 not so much. I also bought some 54 caliber maxi balls from TOTW, and they were a perfect fit, and shoot lights out. So yes, they have to fit at least half decent.
If you can, measure at least your bore diameter of your barrel. You want the bottom two bands of a maxiball .001" or so larger than bore diameter. Right on, or even .003" over is ok too. The top band ideally would be close to grove diameter, maybe a bit larger. That 36-130A is NOT a muzzleloader maxiball, or at least not something that will work well. I don't own a 36 caliber rifle, but assuming it has a .360" bore, and .004 deep or so rifling, so about .368" groove. So that 36-130M is likely a very good fit.
This is a 3 shot group I did several years ago. The bullet did have a tiny bit of antimony and tin in it. 1% approx. It was tight going down the bore.Quote:
Originally Posted by megasupermagnum
That's the one I'm leaning toward.Quote:
Originally Posted by megasupermagnum
36 cal as it appears is kind of rare according to what I've read above. As far as molds I have not purchased a Accurate mold of that 36 cal description.
I know they are rare. And when they do show up on places like ebay it'll be cheaper to get one from accurate molds. I'm leaning towards the 37-130m. I'm going to attempt measure my bore this weekend. You can adjust the mold demensions on his order page.Quote:
Originally Posted by OverMax
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Since the 36-130A boolit appears to be longer/heavier than the other, the only thing I can add would be to see which boolit weight your rifle prefers.
The 37-130M is closer to T/C maxi ball dimension with the top band being slightly larger . I only have experience with T/C .
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If Tom says they both weight 130 grains, you can pretty much take it to the bank. Whatever program he uses is dead on.Quote:
Originally Posted by pietro