Tumble Lube 9mm questions

Guys,

I know this is probably out there somewhere, but I can't find a thread on it.
I have been casting 9mm in lee 356-125-2r with one lube grove for 30 plus years, and lubing in RCBS luber sizer. Last year I did some tumble lubing of 3030 with a lee sizer after tumble lubing, and I really liked it.
I lubed, sized with gascheck, and lubed again then loaded. Worked excellent.
Way faster than RCBS...so wanted to try 9mm in same manner.

My question --
I have a .357 lee tumble lube die and lee alox and I just tumble lubed some and let dry over night.
I then sized to .357.
The lube grove is full, just like it would be from the RCBS. Lee says to size and lube again then load.
(I did that on the 3030). Since the bullet looks the same as from out of the RCBS I question do I need to lube again?

I guess I can run some tests, but it is winter, and I won't most likely do much shooting til spring and hate to wait that long.

Any thoughts?

thanks all.....
Ron

If you have a lube groove full of Alox, you surely don't need to apply it a second time. That is LOTS more than I use per boolit. I'm surprised that you got it to dry?

When I TL boolits, I apply as little as possible.

The boolits on the yellow lid have been TL'd
the other boolits have no lube on them.
Attachment 211711

Attachment 211712

I think I added an attachment.

I agree the lube was thick. I had an older bottle getting to the end so it was a touch thick.
I assume this is ok, even with only one grove and not the TL groves?

Looks like a lot. You could thin it down with mineral spirits. I mix Lee alox 50/50 with mineral spirits to get thinner coats if I am not using BLL.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by michiganflyer

SNIP...

I assume this is ok, even with only one grove and not the TL groves?

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Groove type doesn't matter, You will be OK, I suspect the only drawback might be they may be more smokey when shooting them.

I'm with JonB, pick your poison, Ben's Liquid Lube, 45/45/10 or something you invent.

It should pour like coke. You don't need much, we are talking drops here for 100 bullets.
More drops of course for bigger caliber, heavier boolits. Fewer for smaller.

I use 2 light coats for pistol and low speed rifle. 3 light coats for higher speed rifle.

I like to add 2% Carnuba wax to the mix. Really leaves bores clean, shiny, and protected. But I'm lazy, I'll admit it. I've used both JPW and straight Carnuba flakes, both work. Flakes were more of a pain, had to heat up my mix until the flakes dissolved.

Think of it in terms of uniformity of coating. If you get even 1/4 of a drop of Alox more on one side of a bullet than on the other. That is going to have an effect when you start spinning that bullet. It can cause a wobble, screws with your accuracy.

But if you can get a microscopicly thin layer uniformly deposited. And repeat it until you build up just enough coat to do the job. It shows in the accuracy.

Like 3 thin layers of spray paint is better than one thick layer that develops a run.

That run is going to screw with you.

Yup same as above, thats a lot more alox than I use. I saved a lot of commercial and poorly coated bullets I made with liberal use of a good tumble lube.

The only real problem you will run into is after loading a certain number(it varies) your seating die nose punch will start to fill with the alox and the boolits will start being seated deeper. You will need to watch for this and either compensate with adjustments or clean out the nose punch.
I use the method you describe to lube and have no problems with leading or accuracy in my 9mm pistols(7 different guns). The extra lube won't hurt anything but will smoke more when shot. Experience.
I use adjustments to keep my oal constant and clean the nose punch after a long run.