Bevel base Hensley & Gibbs

A few years ago I bought a very nice 10 cavity H&G #51 BB mold from someone here. I've been using it in my K38 just for plinking and target shooting. It's the only BB mold I own. Are there disadvantages to the BB? I get a slight amount of flashing on the base once in a while and I ant help but think that it wouldn't help with accuracy any, though I have no trouble ringing steel with the gun and boolit. Is there any advantage to having someone modify this mold to a PB version? Or should I not mess with an H&G mold which cast beautifully and perfectly as is? Other than the slight flashing, which could be from things being too hot.


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I'm certainly no expert but have always heard "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

I'd leave it too.
my 358091 is probably a close to exact copy of the #51 but the bevel isn't a big deal, even when I wind it up to over 1-K fps.

if your getting a little flashing you need to check the sprue plate is laying level.

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Originally Posted by runfiverun

I'd leave it too.
my 358091 is probably a close to exact copy of the #51 but the bevel isn't a big deal, even when I wind it up to over 1-K fps.

if your getting a little flashing you need to check the sprue plate is laying level.

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It's having a tendency to get lead "freckles" on the top of the blocks and the bottom of the sprue plate. I'm not sure why. When it cools down I carefully remove them. And then no more flashing. Until they appear again. I'm not entirely sure what's going on. The flashing easily peels off with a fingernail, but it's a pain when sizing.

The bevel would put any deformities on the base away from the trailing edge and toward the center. Makes the boolet easier to start in the case too. If you size pushing on the base, it reinforces the base against damage by the sizer stem.

Most with the older RCBS or Lyman sizers didn't like bevel bases as it left a ring of grease to be wiped off. Using a Star doesn't have this problem.

Some just don't like bevel bases....say they are inaccurate. I have some that shoot ok... YMMV

I shoot a lot of 68 H&G when I picked up a BB mold the std base mold hasn't been taken out of the box it is so much easier to load on my Dillon. I think you my be worrying about something that really isn't a big problem.

the freckling could be controlled with something on top of the mold and bottom of the sprue plate.
I use a lot of nickel anti-sieze, AC-100 Ester oil, or just plain old 2-stroke oil.
a swipe with a Q-tip across the mold top and plate bottom with boolits in the mold will provide enough of a barrier to keep the lead from sticking.

I have a 4 cavity H&G #51 that Erik removed the BB from. It casts beautifully.
The only thing is that most people don't like BB cast bullets. The reality is that you don't have to bell out the brass as much to start a BB bullet into the case. That should make the brass last longer....or so the theory goes.
If you want to cast and shoot all the bullets yourself, keep it BB. If you ever want to sell or trade the bullets, remove the BB. Nobody wants BB bullets.....but they are every bit as good as PB bullets.

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Originally Posted by selmerfan

A few years ago I bought a very nice 10 cavity H&G #51 BB mold from someone here. I've been using it in my K38 just for plinking and target shooting. It's the only BB mold I own. Are there disadvantages to the BB? I get a slight amount of flashing on the base once in a while and I ant help but think that it wouldn't help with accuracy any, though I have no trouble ringing steel with the gun and boolit. Is there any advantage to having someone modify this mold to a PB version? Or should I not mess with an H&G mold which cast beautifully and perfectly as is? Other than the slight flashing, which could be from things being too hot.
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by runfiverun

the freckling could be controlled with something on top of the mold and bottom of the sprue plate.
I use a lot of nickel anti-sieze, AC-100 Ester oil, or just plain old 2-stroke oil.
a swipe with a Q-tip across the mold top and plate bottom with boolits in the mold will provide enough of a barrier to keep the lead from sticking.

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I've been using Bullplate lube in an attempt to prevent this. It works for a few hundred bullets, then needs it again.

I had the BB trimmed off of my LEE 200 gr SWC H&G 68 clone.

Shiloh

If I recall correctly COL Harrison spoke pretty highly of that BB wad cutter. When I get to the shop I will look it up and post exactly his comment on it.

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Here's what I was referencing...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5d086434cb.jpg

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Not a true bevel base.. l shoot quite a few H&G boolits from a 44 GC mold WITHOUT the gas check.. They are quite accurate below 1000 fps