Lee 6 cav. pins coming out

The forward alignment pin in a Lee 6 cavity kept coming out on me this morning. Anyone know of a permanent fix?

when I run the newer Lee molds real hot(which I like) I have trouble with that and I started keeping them cooler and it has helped.

If it's a brand new mold, and it wasn't a hassle, I'd consider sending it back to the vendor. Lee has acknowledged some QC issues with hole size for their alignment pins.

If they were to make it a hassle and/or the mold is older, I'd consider fixing...
If the pin can be easily driven all the way out, I'd consider giving the pin a bit of redneck stippling and then stake the pin back into the mold.
my 2¢

I have one doing that also, going to drill and put in a roll pin. When I get a roun-to-it !
be sure to get it seate well against the "socket" before locking it into ***.

The pins can be peened up slightly with light tapping with a small ball peen hammer. support pin on shoulder in a piece of steel with hole drilled to clear alighnment portion, set on a solid surface and lightly tap back edge square and even checking size often .001-.002 increase in dia should cure the issue. A small set screw ( 6-40 or 8 40) could be installed to lock pin in place also. Remove pin and layput where hole needs to be drill and tap for set screw. Reinstall pin and lock in place with set screw. On moulds I have made from scratch alighnment pins are light snug fit backed bu a set screw ( makes setting and adjusting pins easier) and locked on a small flat by set screws as described above. Green locktite might wick into and hold but would also make future adjustments difficult.

I may try the drill and roll pin idea. This is one of the Kurtz 6.5 custom molds, so would hate to send it back to Lee to mess with.

I made my own pins and knurled them before putting them in. IMHO Lee moulds are kits rather than finished products anyway. If you can't knurl them a sharp center punch should raise enough burrs to hold them.

I had just one (of many) do that and I simply drove the pin out, peened it a touch, and drove it back in. Problem solved. Many times the simplest solution is the "bestest" and fastest!!!

bangerjim

I have a number of LEE tools that I like very well including a number of their molds. I bought one of their first new style mold blocks & shortly thereafter one of the pins holding one of the mold halves to the handles fell out. I repaired that & then one of the alignment pins fell out. Drat!
I bought another of their new style molds & again one of the alignment pins fell out. I never had an issue with the old style mold blocks. That is sad because LEE does cut a nice mold. I just came to the conclusion that I need to wait, save my money & get custom molds from Accurate.

I can't imagine Lee consistently holding -.0002 to -.0004 on the reamed holes consistently. When you try to be the low price leader that sort of workmanship is probably not going to happen unless Lee learns to burnish the holes to size. He would probably have a coronary before he pays over $100 a tool for a roller burnishing tool.

This was a common problem back in the day when we were churning out custom Lee 6 holers. The standard fix was to drill and tap the block for a set screw to hold the alignment pin in place.

Good ideas here...would hate to have to do the set screw thing (again) as I did for most of my sprue plate screws.

Well, I went with using a tension (roll) pin. That worked well. I'll go with a set screw for the cutter.