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i have a #1 that was rebarreled by bullberry in 45-70. the bbl measures 1.160 where the forend iron touches it. this brings me to the question. should the bbl be touching the hanger or should there be a little space between the two? i do not have another #1 to compare it to. any suggestions?
Fore-end hanger should not touch barrel.
Common technique to "free float" barrel on No.1 is to drive a wedge between the hanger and barrel to bend it away slightly from the barrel and to pull the wedge out. Adjust bend until you can slide a dollar bill between barrel and wood all the way back. Then glass bed fore-end to the hanger and sand back end of hanger to that you can insert a 0.020" plastic shim (bread bag closure tag) between receiver and butt of fore-end.
moved the hanger so that it no longer touches the bbl. don't understand what you mean by "sand back the end of the hanger so that you can insert a .020 shim between the reciever and the butt of forend"
do you mean to remove wood from the back of the forend so that it does not touch the front of the reciever? other #1 bedding instructions state to bed the back of the forend wood to fit the reciever. a lot of conflicting information about ruger #1 accurizing
I mis-typed, yes, sand wood from the butt end of the fore-end wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by porthos
Believe he ment fore end wood. Don’t want it in contact with the reciever. At least that is what I remember, but certainly agree about the many conflicting “plans”. I had a problem child 243 B model, finally said the heck with it and traded for a 4570!
Oops, I pokey keyboard slow....
The old DeHaas fix for the Ruger #1 to increase accuracy was to drill and tap the end of the hanger for a 1/4-28 screw so you could tension the hanger to the barrel. The hanger touching the barrel isn't as Ruger built them, but that doesn't mean it wont shoot well touching the barrel. It might even shoot better!
I'd probably try it first, before removing wood, or moving the hanger away form the barrel. Then if it doesn't group well you can start floating things.
There is also an aftermarket piece that fits on the end of the hanger and negates having to drill and tap for the screw. You do have to make room for it in the forearm however.
ETA: It's called a Hick's Accurizer
i don't mind drilling and tapping the forend hanger for a set screw; but where will i drill and tap?
I'd have to check DeHaas' book, but if I recall it was out near the end where there's an open spot that has room for a 1/4" screw. He used a setscrew with a jam nut to lock it. Once you've fired the gun for groups, you slightly tighten the screw until it touches. Then shoot 5 round groups, and adjust tension between each group. Wherever the groups get the smallest, you tighten the locknut and keep it there.
But I'd still shoot it before I did anything, so you have a baseline. Heck, it might shoot great as-is, and save some work.
MARLINMAN"s fix is the ONLY way I ever got a #1 to shoot to its potential. Did it on (2) 220 Swifts, a 25/06, and a fore end that a guy brought in. W
instead of drilling and tapping the forend iron; wouldn't inserting shims of various thickness between the front of the iron and the bbl. do the same thing??
porthos,
The shims can work, but in my experience, they can come loose. Also the threaded screw gave a more precise method of increasing tension. A 1/32 turn can make a big difference. I use an 8-32 screw, turned with an Allen wrench. Also a ball point on the screw works better than a cup point for me. I also drill a hole through the forearm so that I can adjust the screw with the forearm on. After I get the screw adjusted, I take the forearm off and fix the screw with something such as Loctite. I have been able to improve the accuracy of all the No.1s I have done this to.
Doughty: just where did you drill and tap the hole? just for reference, how far back from the very front of the forearm iron? the only area that i see available to use is at the split where the flat bar that the ejector spring rides in.
porthos,
Here are a couple images that may help. The gap that exist between the barrel and the hanger varies from "just clearing" to "big" so the length of the screw you will need varies too. The one in the image is 1/2 inch I believe and this is a "big" gap. I have used as short as 1/4 inch. I now get long ones and grind to length and shape. Also, it is sometimes necessary to grind off the end of the hammer strut a little, if it rubs against the screw when cocking. Good luck with your project. If there is anything else I can do to help, let me know.
Richard
Attachment 238495 Attachment 238496
Doughty: thanks for the info. thats about where i intended to drill. my thoughts are to bed the flat area of the hanger.(the area on each side of the hammer spring as you look down on it) and bed the rear of the forend to the reciever. this should make a very solid forend (with a floated bbl)
Be sure to use a non hardening Loctite Blue on the set screw threads! Once you have it set, you don't want it to work loose and change the tension.
So perusing back I picked up on this thread.
Questions;
... did you get your Ruger to shooting?
... if you do the "set screw" thing, how can you wind up free floated?
... trying to wrap around free floating the barrel and then bedding your forend to the reciever?
Anyway ... interested in your results and exactly what you did to achieve them.