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I have a Remington Model 11 12ga. It's a beautiful shotgun, except for the fact someone installed a Cutts compensator on the barrel at one time. I have considered having the comp removed and having the barrel threaded for choke tubes. If I did this, I would end up with a barrel in the 21-22" range. My question is this, would the shorter (and therefore lighter) barrel have a negative affect on the recoil-operated action?
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Fire it with the improved cylinder choke tube to find out. It should work.
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I can give you a reverse order answer. I had one that had an 18-inch barrel when I got it, a bit short for hunting. I bought a replacement 28-inch barrel from a used barrel dealer and installed it. The gun worked fine with either barrel.
DG
No reason it wouldn't work.
Moving the choke from outside to inside the muzzle shouldn't make any difference to the recoil spring & bushing.
Just be aware there are different positions for the recoil spring and bushing to be switched around for light or heavy loads.
Or just use it as is. I had an Ithica M37 with the Cutts on it and 4 chokes ranging from skeet to full. I liked it just fine. The skeet choke was the business for pats in the thick brush.
I have three Rem 11 - one with Cutts and two plain barrel. I’m sure you are probably aware that the friction ring can be set for standard or Cutts so either will work.
I grew up shooting a Cutts so I’m used to it - but they typically shoot low. When they were more common, gunsmiths were familiar with how to adjust them, which involves pressing on top of the slotted body between two v-blocks to raise the pattern relative to the barrel.
I get the point of your question. No offense but most of the replies are not addressing the real question.
Shortening the barrel shouldn't be an issue for function, since you are removing mass from the barrel. With recoil operated systems, adding mass to a barrel can make it harder to get it moving, removing mass makes it easier. This can affect the functioning cycle.
My situation was similar to yours. I was GIVEN an absolutely pristine 1963 Browning light 12 Auto 5 with a factory installed Poly Choke. While I realize that was the hot setup in '63, and they work exactly as advertised, I just didn't care for the looks of it. I picked up an identical barrel just without the Poly, and carefully packed the original barrel away. I can say that the original barrel required the friction rings to ALWAYS be set for light loads to function because the Poly added ounces to the barrel mass, even when firing heavier loads. And, the lighter barrel would function with much lighter loads than the heavier Poly Choke barrel would. The heavier barrel is harder to get into motion. So, in your case you are making the barrel lighter, and therefore you should not have a problem.
It's the same thing with 1911's. A heavy coned (bushingless) barrel will require a lighter spring for the same power load. My standard profile 1911 would run an 18 1/2 lb. spring for heavy loads, a 15 lb. spring for light Bullseye loads. My heavy barreled Wilson comp gun ran on a 15 lb.spring and 10 lb. spring respectively for the exact same loads.
Oh and this has nothing to do with your original question, but I never cared for barrels that short on a shotgun. That's just me, but unless it's a slug gun or a Tak ti cool shotgun, I like a bit more barrel. Remington 11 barrels aren't cheap but they're out there.
I’ve got a half dozen Remington Model 11’s and several Browning A-5’s . I however have one Model 11 barrel at the moment with a Polychoke . I don’t mind Cutts and actually like the look of them , but I don’t like a Polychoke at all .
Thank you all for the replies. Patrick L, thank you especially for actually answering my question! I actually do like shorter barrels in shotguns, so I think I may give this a go and have the Cutts removed.
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I would have to say I'm the opposite. I've had a few guns with polychokes and they don't seem to be quite as ugly as this thing. The Cutts just looks like a corn cob on the end of the barrel, then when you add the actual choke on the end it adds another 1-2" of ugliness...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 6pt-sika
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To be fair, I had another gun with a Poly years ago, plus this one now. I never noticed anything when sighting down the barrel (which you shouldn't because if your eye is on the barrel you're going to miss!!) and the patterns delivered were spot on. It's just when you are admiring your guns that they bother me!
Never owned a Cutts, but I suspect it's the same.
The Mod 11 was orig mfg'rd sold as a Factory Riot Gun w/a 20" bbl.
So they worked just fine at the time.
Answering the question, an “11” shares similarities with the Browning A-5 and while you have some adjustability the system is designed to work off the inertia generated during recoil, to cycle the action. It may work with some loads and not others or not at all depending where you are on the curve?
I bought an extra (e-bay) barrel for my A-5 16ga and bobbed it short; turning it into a nice “house gun” for the wife. Since it was now a cylinder bore it shot heavy buck or slugs just fine and along those lines; i decided it could have a front sight. So; i weighed the stub i cut off and machined a banded front sight out of Densealloy, which equalled the cut off.
Theres still some model 11 parts around and an additional barrel gives you some options?
I’ve attached a good link with plenty of explanation of the gun.
https://leeroysramblings.com/remington_model_11.html
I have an A5 barrel with a Cutts Compensator on it. I would never consider chopping it off! I have an Ithaca M37 with a Cutts on it and over the last 50 years I finally got all the choke tubes and the box and wrench!
They fit the A5 barrel just like the M37 barrel. What that barrel gives me is the capability to make either one of my A5's into any kind of bird gun I might want, and I can also shoot Trap, Skeet and Sporting Clays with those guns.
The good thing about A5's and Rem 11's is that the parts are pretty much interchangeable. That is probably because Browning sold the rights to make the A5 to Remington first, and during the 2nd War Browning's were made by Remington because Belgium had that Nazi problem, and they were marked "Browning" not "Remington.".
All of the barrels I've got will work on both guns, and the Cutts Barrel came on an early 1950's A5 that I sold with a different barrel that also came with it. I kept the Cutts barrel specifically for use on either my Pristine 1964 A5 that already has a Mod and Full Barrels, as well as my "not as pristine" 1963 Tactical Gun that has a Buck Special Barrel and Hastings Rifled Barrel. Every barrel mentioned runs perfectly on either gun. Shout out to the excellent Machinists that made these guns and the Production Engineers that made it happen. Too bad they didn't figure out how to evolve that to new 5th Gen CNC machines and keep the Real Auto 5 model alive!
It is IMHO, the best Semi Auto Shotgun ever made, and it was designed 125 years ago!!! Why has nobody actually came up with anything that is actually better is beyond me? Lots of tries, no real successes!
My .02
Randy
I should mention, I have three A5s myself. A 1963 Light 12, a 1966 Sweet 16, and a 1971 Magnum 20. Absolutely love them!
Well, looks like I solved my problem in a different way. I just got the winning bid on a 30" full choke Model 11 barrel. Not the ideal configuration for me, but at least it will put the gun back to original configuration, and I can keep the Cutts barrel as well.
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Good decision. Any military marks on the barrel or action?Quote:
Originally Posted by three50seven
https://www.rockislandauction.com/de...rainer-shotgun
i have a number of shotguns with short barrels, 12 ga and 20 ga 18" cylinder and a bit longer. work great in heavy brush for grouse.
Nothing on the gun. It dates to 1928 and has very nice wood with checkering. We'll have to see if there are any marks on the new barrel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvercreek Farmer
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