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I have AR flat top upper that has a traditional M16 style front sight that's in the sightline of a red dot scope. it really doesn't bother me much but it bugs my wife and a happy wife is a happy life! So I picked up a flat gas block and want to install that but, the m16 style looks to be held in place by two pins. Do these drive out? Or do I need to drill them out? I tried driving them but didn't wack em to hard on the chance of messing them up.
Thanks upfront!
Look at the ends of the pins on each side some were a stright pin others used a tapered pin. Afew were modifies to use 4 set screws against flats cut in the barrel for them to push against ( these allowed setting windage to mechanical zero. Alot used the tapered pins drize from small end to large end with a punch and barrel well supported. Some also assembled these with blue locktite so heat may be needed. The original gas blocks were front sights cut off just above the gas tube mounting and ground or filed to match gas tube mount. There isnt alot of diffrence between the tapered pins ends dia so look close. Also be sure to measure the dia of the barrel and new gas blocks hole to make sure they are compatable.You may need to go the cut down front sight mount as most gas blocks holes are larger
Out left to right. Use a heavy hammer and short blows.
Yep, and have fun getting the pins out. I bought a new barrel for one of mine after fighting w/ the pins for to long :banghead:Quote:
Originally Posted by imashooter2
Thanks for the replies everyone, I went looking for my post and didn't realize I had put here. Geez gettin old sucks!
LOL! I'd buy an angle grinder before a new barrel. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon813gt
The pins were the last straw w/ the barrel. It was a cheap unbranded barrel that wouldn't shoot. I just tossed it in the trash.Quote:
Originally Posted by imashooter2
pretty much how I would have handled it too.
Those pins being that tight may have made an constriction where they went thru being that tight causing the accuracy issues. The op rod block on an m1a if shrunk on to tight can do the same causing a constriction where it sets. to tight pins in it have the same effect as does over tightening the flash hiders castle nut. When the flat tops were being made from service rifle recievers the simple mod was to cut the upper part of the sight off and re countour it. Mounting the sight out at the muzzle on a barrel clamp.
If you intend to use a longer free floating hand guard, just hacksaw the sight off and install a flip up front sight. That way you have the best of both worlds, in case the red dot dies.
For future reference, the chamber section of an M16 barrel can be made into a decent action bar nut wrench for use on a Remington 870. It might work on other 12 gauges also.Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon813gt
Robert
After firmly hitting them I tried oiling them and hit them harder, when that didn't work I chucked it up in the vise (I had just blocked it up on the bench) and heated it and moved from a 12oz. hammer to a 16oz. and beat on some more! Finally said to heck with and cut it off just above the gas tube and then rounded it off to match the tube, a little flat black hi-temp BBQ grill paint blended in perfectly and it looks real good.Quote:
Originally Posted by mold maker
Not enough hammer. A heavy hammer is at least 2 pounds. I generally use a 3 pound drilling hammer. The pins move.Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin101
Agreed, a front sight block, 3# hammer, and a roll pin punch is all it takes.Quote:
Originally Posted by imashooter2
They're tight for a reason but nowhere near impossible to get out.