Anyone know if there's a commonly available screw that I can get to mount 4C H&G molds onto the handles?
Thanks.
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Anyone know if there's a commonly available screw that I can get to mount 4C H&G molds onto the handles?
Thanks.
I have replaced the screws with the exposed heads with a piece of roll pin and a set screw. This makes them slide on the mold guide easier. I think the roll pin is 3/4L and 1/8 in diameter. The set screw is 10-32.
What lightman said...dale
Awesome! Off to ACE hardware I go.
Just wondering how this worked for you?
I haven't been to ACE yet. It's been so damn hot I've been hunkering down in the house. I did shoot a club match yesterday. Way to warm out for an old fat guy.Quote:
Originally Posted by lightman
I'm going to hit ACE on Tuesday when I go into town for my second to last PT session for my knees.
Virtually all Hensley, and Hensley & Gibbs production used standard USA thread designs for the screws. There are a few oddball screws used (like the threaded "shoulder" bolt on the hinge) but for the most part, all the screws for their molds can be found at the average hardware store. Replacement screws may not look the same, but should function the same with little or no modification.Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnt Fingers
If you are trying to find, or re-create the threaded "pin type" screws where the forward part of the threaded screw is smooth and functions as a pin through the handles, I would suggest doing away with that design and instead using the following as a substitute.
Use a threaded set screw about 3/8" of an inch long that matches the threads on your mould blocks. In front of the set screw use a smooth shaft of a cut off nail. What I've done in the past it take my handles to the hardware store and find a nail that fits just a bit loose in the handle block holes. Then, I measure and cut the nail shaft to approximate the same length as the original smooth threaded pin. What you end up with is a two piece screw/set vs. a solid threaded pin. The advantage of this setup is that now the bottom of your blocks are smooth and will lay flat on a flat surface and also function much better if you are using a mold guide.
Just make sure your new two piece screw/nail combination approximates the same overall length of the original threaded pin.
If I can find one of my old mould block setups I will post a pic to this thread showing the modification.
I finally braved the heat and went out in the garage to play with my 4C mold.
I bought some 10-32 set screws and brass rod. I cut the rod into 1" pieces. The set screws were 3/8".
This worked out perfectly. The set screws are slightly below the mold and they don't seem to work loose.
Many thanks everyone!
Glad it worked out for you. I used roll pins but I'm not the one that figured this out. Another member suggested it to me. If I remembered who I would credit them for it.