Q: How much force is needed to de-rim 22lr brass?

Alright so I just got BTSnipers package with my core mold and de-rim die. I ran a half dozen or so clean 22lr cases with various headstamps through the die. Using two hands and standing to push the handle down with steady pressure it seemed to take quite a bit of force. On the sixth 22lr case I popped the wooden ball off my press handle (I'll just epoxy it back on). Does this sound right? I read and followed the de-rim instructions to the best of my ability and I would just like to make sure I am doing it right before I screw something up.

Additional details: I have a Lee classic cast "O" style press mounted to a solid reloading bench.

Sounds right to me, I broke my Lee Classic cast de-rimming 22 brass. (The round part the handle mount to) The rest of the process on 22 bullets is pretty easy.

I eventually modified the linkage for less stroke, more leverage. And eventually made a whole new press..

I do not own a Lee press but if you back your die out so that you have used all of your presses travel to complete the work it will be a lot easier. Reloading presses get the greatest amount of power just before they cam over.

Yep, Back your die out to increase leverage. You can back it out a ways. I found that if I backed it out to much the jacket would stick to the punch. So back it out till brass sticks to punch then screw it down slightly.

Federal jackets are thicker and require more force to derim.

I have had customers report that they where able to sucessfully derim jackets that had allready been annealed. Typically we have problems deriming annealed 22lr brass, I found they tend to stick to the punch more frequent but give it a try! Deriming a annealed case would certainly be easier.

Use more lube.

Adjust the Lee handle to give you better leverage. Use the smaller diameter punch I supplied you with if need be.

BT

Good point Aneat. The deriming step is the ONLY step of the entire process that requires any force. The rest of the bullet can be made using only fingers on teh handel of the press to form the bullet.

BT

Thanks for the replies. I'll give all your tips a try.

I am using a heavy duty AmmoMaster & the longer throw prevents me from getting the die up high enough. Brian is going to fix the dies for me, I just need another inch or so. It can be quite easy to moderately hard, depends on brass manuf. Make sure the cases are as clean as possible inside & out. Any grit inside increases the force needed to get the case thru the die.
Brian supplies two punches, the smaller is definiteyl easier. You can always run them back thru ww/ the larger punch after. I am not sure it's making that much diff, but can be done that way too.

The RCBS Ammo Master press is a dandy from the looks of it. This is the first set of dies I have set up for this press that I know of.

I'll have Fredj338 all fixed up very soon. I'm sure he'll have no problem with that big press deriming these jackets. I made his threaded ram addapter and punches a bit long for the first attempt.

Everyone else should be good to go.

BT

Bt, have you tried to change your angle on your di-riming die, I think it help me, I went from a 45degree to a 60 and it seem a little easier.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reload3006

I do not own a Lee press but if you back your die out so that you have used all of your presses travel to complete the work it will be a lot easier. Reloading presses get the greatest amount of power just before they cam over.

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Yep. I have de rimmed on a Lee Bree Lock before without an issue. Back the die out.

I usually have it turned in about a half turn and then keep running one peice of brass through it until it comes off the punch then tighten the lick ring down. Never had a problem.

you did lube them...right..
i didn't break my press but i did rip it off the bench.
i now drill the back of the press and add another mounting point. [on top of using 5" lag bolts in the front]
and add another piece of plywood under the bench where the press mounts.

The problem should be that the lower punch and the derim die are too tight to produce nice caps.
I bend my handle on Lee classic cast deriming the older faithful brass. Use a good lube and be sure that the used equipment is precisely made to your needs.

Not to be a thread gravedigger but I've been a long time lurker and proud recipient of some recent 22 caliber swaging dies.

I decided I better get started derimming the gallon sized bag of mixed 22lr brass (cleaned and lubed of course) I've scrounged. I've read all the threads about the fancy air actuated presses and the force required to derim, seen some videos as well (obviously missed this thread) but until you can put your hands around something words cannot really describe the pleasure of trying to jamb something into a small hole.

I decided to bump the thread to share my pleasure - lol. I consider myself quite a manly man and thought this should be a piece of cake. Well I thread the die and insert the punch and put a nice little 22lr brass on the punch and let it rip. That got me absolutely nowhere, fearing I screwed something up on my first attempt I checked everything out and all looked good so I try again and nothing, cant even come close other than a small dent in the rim.

I am not one to give up easily I added some additional leverage and was able to derim my first case; everything looked good so time to start chipping away.

I must say I enjoyed the force the derimmed cases came out, sounded like opening a tiny champagne bottle - safety glasses are a must . I got though 500 or more before I gave in; soaked in sweat and shoulder feeling like it had been ripped from the socket.

The videos on folks manually derimming look so easy, time to slightly adjust the die to use leverage and the top of the stroke to my advantage.

I have been making derimmer dies for the last year and selling them on ebay and I can say this, if you broke your press, there is something very wrong with your die. The punch should be .199 in diameter and have a slight champhor on the end, should not be totally flat, that will cut the brass. The dies I make have a taper internally that will take the entire .22 case into it before it contacts the .224 area. The tapering must be rounded at this point so that the case goes thru smoothly and almost effortlessly. If it doesn't then something is deffinitely wrong with the die. This is a one arm, slight pressure required operation....at least mine are. And yes the case comes out a perfect .224.

I have had the Corbin Setup for a reloading press for about 25 years. I set up the de-rim die different from most. I raise the die in the press so that the case is de-rimed just at the top of the stroke. Only about 3/16" has gone into the sizer at this point.I lower the ram and the case stays in the die. I lightly lube the punch with a swipe of my fingers and put another case on the punch. Raise the ram and de-rim that case too. Each case pushes the previous case the rest of the way through the die. Once the case is de-rimed there is almost no sizing to be done on the case so it pushes on through easily. This becomes a light effort operation .Almost fingertip effort at the top of the stroke.I use a rock chucker but I have done this on my old Lyman Spartan press too. The punch should be hard and smooth or the case may stick. My steup has a disk that fits over the punch to eject a stuck case off of the punch when one sticks.
n.h.schmidt

That sounds exactly how I set up my Walnut Hill to derim 22. The top 3/16" - 1/4" of press ram travel is where it does the derim. I think some guys might be assuming that the ram should push the 22LR completely through the derim die in one fell swoop. That is just not realistic on anything other than a hydraulic press, but it is also not necessary. Like you, I have the derimmed 22 sticking out of the bottom of the derim die, to be pushed through by the next 22LR. Out of 12,000+ shells, I've had 3 or 4 where the punch knocked the bottom out of the brass. I do get some that stick to the punch, but that's just the punch reminding me to wipe it down with more swage lube before continuing...

You guys bring up an interesting idea leaving that much of the brass case sticking out the bottom of the die for the next to push it not only threw the die but into it as well. I have always pushed the jacket just far enough into the die where no jacket is exposed, and then yes, the next one threw the die will push the previous one out but I'll have to give your guy's technique a try.

I do expect to offer plans and tooling soon to allow you all to make your own pneumatic derim press from simple inexpensive products. Pushing a button to derim is so much easier :)

Good shooting and swage on!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BT Sniper

I do expect to offer plans and tooling soon to allow you all to make your own pneumatic derim press from simple inexpensive products. Pushing a button to derim is so much easier :)

Good shooting and swage on!

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Attachment 110220

Making a pneumatic derimmer using a "silent" compressor is about a $100 deal. Simple to make, all equipment needed can be bought from Surplus Center in NE. Good company to deal with, fast honest and top flight products. A silent compressor is made from a freezer/refrig compressor put on a storage tank. I use out of date propane tanks. Put a relief valve, a pressure regulator and poof, silent air! I keep mine at my reloading press to blow off the loose powder, works great!

Is that a rotary or piston compressor?