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Hello guys. For those of you that have done this type of bluing. What would happen if I had great bluing on one small area of the gun and after polishing it, lowered it into the salts? Would it harm the old good bluing or change it? Just wondering if any of you have tried this. Thanks and keep shooting.
Roy
Hooker53
It would look different. Best to prep and polish the entire piece.
I'm figuring that as well. Was just wondering how close it would match. Thanks for posting.
Hooker53
It would be almost impossible for you to match the formula the previous bluing had in it and even if you could there are small differences from batch to batch.
Also bear in mind that heat treated parts (revolver cylinder for instance) should not be nitre blued due to the extreme temperature involved, certainly not hot enough to anneal or overly soften a hardened part but plenty hot enough to change it's tempered specs.
Thought about that as well when Bob Brownells was stating it was good for spring maki g. This is something I just wanted to try. If it don't pan out. Will go right back to what Iv used gown through the years. Oxynate 7.
Du-lite is so much better than 07. It is the industry standard. From my shop it was better, cheaper and much longer lasting than Brownells JUNK. The cleaners from the actualy work unlike the dishwasher soap Brownells sells.
I'll 2nd. Geezer, Du-lite is the only product to use.
Hello Geezer. Thanks for telling about the Du-Lite. I will check that out for sure.
Nitre bluing is limited to small, non critical parts, heat bluing or tempering of springs. Keep water well away from it. I use lead or a small pan of brass chips and a propane torch. when you get the color you want, quench it. Surface finish is everything in heat bluing.
It has been awhile since if used my three tank Oxy 7 bluing. What little bluing i'v done is with some of the new cold blues and some do very well if you work with them. I'v never tried Nitra heat bluing. So you are saying trying to blue Say, a L frame Colt revolver is some most wouldn't want to do? Thanks all for posting. Good info here!!
Roy
I think something else being missed here is that Nitre blue is not very durable, at least not compared to hot or rust blue. It maybe is some better than most cold blues and certainly looks better than any cold blue but it is simply a bad choice for big pieces like a frame or any other part subject to surface finish wear, and then add to that the consideration that it could (likely would) ruin the temper of heat treated parts. Basically Nitre blue is for screws and other SMALL non-critical parts and little else.
I am convinced. I will try Nitra only on small parts and investigate geezers Du-lite. Thanks all for posting. Big help. Keep shooting.
Roy
Small parts can be done in your lead pot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooker53