.223 primer problems

Processing .223/5.56, having problems with some primers getting mashed crooked or off and not going into pocket properly.

Using Dillon 650, running range brass, cleaned ran all through Dillon super swage. Had about 20 rounds out of 100, had this problem. (STOP) hold the press. Investigate. Inspection revealed the primer pockets have raised sharp areas. Catching and cutting primers.

Solution for me, hand prime, off press. So hand primed about 300 off press and they all go pretty easy,except a few. Reamed those, and went fine. I think by not separating cases by head stamping, may be the culprit.

I’m currently out of srp, till I get some more. Have about 1500 range brass to go, and I think I will separate all these by head stamp, ream the ones that are suspect and go from there.

With primers so few and far between, I don’t want to ruin any more.

Any suggestions on my process? Am I doing this wrong or what? Just being impatient?

I swage my .223 pockets with a RCBS primer pocket swagger and prime off press with a RCBS primer bench tool and don't have a problem with mixed brass loading them on my 550.

I been there done that. From not properly swaging. But they fired. I recently got the RCBS bench priming tool. I like it very much.

I haven't swaged as much as I cut the crimp anymore. RCBS has a tool that cuts just enough out of that crimp to remove that issue....I had it happen to me too on particularly tight pockets

It's more labor intensive, adds a couple seconds each to the brass prep which is already a long process....but it's a one and done. Adds a smooth lip to the primer pocket so even if the primer going into the brass is off center a thou or so the primer lip guides it in without snagging

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

I was using a torx bit. Chucked in a drill. But sometimes the casing would spin when holding onto it.

Range brass Clean it first its easier to see head stamp

After cleaning Sort by head stamp .. I put in ziplock bags / ice cream buckets etc / label with masking tape / black marker
I also if a lot of brass has split necks I might aneal the brass before sizing

size single stage ... and any that are extra hard to size or get a belt at the bottom = scrap bucket

I do a water rinse to remove lube and tumble app 30 min to do a final clean and get rid of the water
random check length and if ok in length label ready for primer/load

Ones that are too long .. label too long / or trim

Ones that need primer pocket work label or fix

I have found that different manufactures web thickness vares so have to adjust super swage app 3/4 of a turn to fix primer pockets

I'm not a proponent of blue but I do love my Dillon 600 swage tool. With a spring attach to the rod it auto ejects the brass when you load a new piece.

I swage ALL new-to-me 223/556 brass; it's quick, easy, and saves headaches when you get to seating primmers.

Ballistic Tools, Inc sells a primer pocket go/ no go gauge set for lg and sm primers...:Fire:

Any of the swaging tools that use the inside of the case for support can have issues with mixed brand brass since the webs can be different thickness. In the 233 the inside support rod is small enough that if you over swage you can collapse the primer pocket from the inside and the primer will no longer seat deep enough. That being said the Dillon Super Swage 600 and the Dillion 100/1050/1100 do a superb job when adjusted properly and feed consistent web thickness brass.

From experience you can mostly get by without sorting until you can't. Never had an issue with collapsed pockets on any of the cartridges that use the large support rod. It only and issue with the small rods.

I am currently processing 3,500 .223/556 cases for a buddy. They are a very mixed bunch of manufacturers. They have to be sorted since the webs thickness are significantly different.

I also highly recommend getting a set of these https://ballistictools.com/store/sma...-pocket-gauges

I had a similar issue on my 650. If they hand prime ok it may help to make sure your shell plate indexes correct. I had to adjust the black indexer on the left side of the frame. Is your powder check working 100% or does it get hung up as well?

I tried swagging with a CH4D setup. It did not work very well—has no rod to support the inside of the case, and relied on the case rim.

So, I started cutting the crimps out with a typical older style inside case neck reamer mounted in a drill. I just cut away the top edge with the crimp, and it leaves a slight bevel which helps when priming. It works great, goes fast, and I have not had any negative issues arise. I do this after decapping with a universal decapping die, and before cleaning. I still size and prime on a single stage. Then the primed brass goes on the Dillon for the final load.

I am also getting a healthy supply of 5.56 processed.

My best method is using a RCBS Swage II tool set moderately followed up with an LE Wilson crimp cutter.

When I tried to eliminate the sharp little ridge mentioned by the OP just using the swage tool, I was over sizing primer pockets to the point of creating loose primers, thus ruining the brass.

My technique then involves swaging most of the crimp away and letting the cutter remove the remaining crimp along with the offending portion of that primer catching ridge.

Three44s

Your most problematic brass wasn't A-USA stamped was it? I have A-USA 223 brass that is pure junk for the reasons you are having. Even after primer crimp was removed and pockets uniformed still had trouble with probably 30% of them.