id like to know what you use and what works best for predators.
thank you
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id like to know what you use and what works best for predators.
thank you
i have only used cooked baits mine is made of 50/50 roo meat and fish cooked in oil with salt added the bottled well hot.
Bacon grease. Everything likes it.
Tainted cube beaver meat with a mix of beaver castor mix, Also use just beaver tail oil. I also have other mix . I do not want too rot because of it will draw more skunk and possum , I also use urine and gland .
bacon grease ill give that a go.
Bacon grease will work if mix with a meat base will make the meat base last longer , also will work at like a camp fire set.The K-9 will think there is something left there and will dig for it.
thank you thats good to know
I'd take that roo meat raw and jar it up with an airlock to keep the flies out and the jars from blowing up and let it taint awhile, not till it's full on rotted but got a little stink to it, then preserve it with sodium benzoate to keep it where you want it. Then store someplace cool and out of the sun. I doubt freezing is much of an issue so you wouldn't have to worry so much about the antifreezes and such that alot of guys use here. Alot of the things we use here for adding to meat baits might be hard to get there, such as beaver castor, oil sacs or beaver tail oil, muskrat musk or skunk essence. Other common things for predator baits that may be easier to get there are asafoetida, garlic, almond extract and so on. There are about a million and one recipes, and different rates to add the sodium benzoate for what kind of heat it will have to deal with, some guys like more tainted some like less etc... in my experience the older the better, some of our best baits are 10+years old. Cat meat (usually bobcat here) is some of the best stuff in most peoples opinion, as well as keeping glands from coyotes, paw pads and the like. Beware that really tainted baits often trigger a rolling response in canines and have to be put well down the hole so they get pinched before they put a shoulder in it to roll and learn a free lesson on avoiding traps.
Good luck!
Used to know a guy that had one of those cages you transport dogs in.
He'd put a live baby goat in it and wait.
When it started crying for it's mama, coyotes and bobcats would come right in.
And the cage kept the goat from getting killed. After awhile he'd put it back with it's mama.
thank you i will give it a go when i can. i can get alot of the bait additives here but cost alot.Quote:
Originally Posted by 429421Cowboy
Chard wood works good also with some lure on it and urine .Use at start of season with a foothold bed in front of it . the wood that is shape like a Y and chard on the space between the 2 ends to the center of the it will guild the coyotes in. I use that alot and get them. the chard wood is what is eye draw on them. with what is put on the wood is what make them work the set. Bacon grease will help also on this or what ever you like . But set it where they are going to go .
good to know as will thank you
I also have some bobcat meat in 5/8 inch squares treated with Sodium Benzoate in small loose lid Jars that are four years old. The coyote scent glands, urine,and anal glands chopped fine put in small dark pill bottles and covered with no scent (supposedly) Gin, or White Lightning or Everclear maybe, will keep a long time. Also deer tarsal, eye and other glands will keep a long time covered with the alcohol as well. The alcohol evaporates eventually and leaves a gummy texture.
You can also use a white feather with lure and urine with a foothold bed in front of it like a flat set will work also can try a black on also. It is eye contact for the coyote and then lure and urine will go from there. Use different sets because of if there is a trap smart coyote is around you will need to change up on what you do ,You can also snare them too. Or use both in the same area. use what the law will allow and the area calls for.