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Have I’m not sure which top punch stuck in my Lyman 4500 I can wiggle it back and forth if I apply vice grips but no outward motion. been a while since I used the unit and fixing to change everything over for a 9mm run and all I know is the stuck punch won’t work. Any ideas are appreciated!
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Vice grip it. Lower the ram down. Hold the vice grips to the body where the die is with channel locks. Raise the handle and see if you make progress. If no progress there. Vice grip it tight, and peck the vice grips down with a hammer till it moves.
Remove the set screw and squirt some penetrating oil in the set screw hole and on the collar on the top punch. Give it time to work then rotate the top punch by turning the collar on the top punch with pliers or vice grips. I'm thinking that the set screw could have been tightened too much and displaced some metal from the top punch back into the set screw hole creating a burr. With the set screw removed you might be able to turn the top punch and have the burr lie back along the top of the punch.
You can leave the set screw out and just put a little dab of lube on the top of the collar to hold the top punch in place.
I galled the hell out of it when I tried to pull it by vice grips and the ram force, and tapping yielded the same results. I’ll try some WD on it and see if I can’t twist it out of there
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LIKE !Quote:
Originally Posted by C.F.Plinker
Remove set screw.
Penetrating oil , give it time to work .
Grab nose punch collar with small vice grip and turn while applying some downward pressure .
Once out , toss the set screw . C.F.Plinkers tip about a dab of bullet lube holding the punch is spot on. After using lube to hold them I've never had another get stuck in place ... they will pull right out and it works better than the set screw .
Gary
I'm surprised it didn't come right out with some persuasion. My appaulogizes my advice made it worse. For the record, I use my set screw and never have experienced a problem related to it.
Chances are the set screw either deformed the stem or raised a burr. Getting it out will be hard now. that raised section will fight you all the way. If you have turned it try a light tapping side to side with a light hammer or small piece of brass or aluminum round stock. do this in all 4 directions. It may flatten the burr down and help.
If its persistent make a "cheese cutter type puller" Pick up a piece of flat stock 1/2-3/4 wide 1/4" thick and 4-5" long. On one end drill a hole slightly bigger than the stem. about 3/4" back from the end on center. Scribe a line 1" back from end and file in to an angle almost sharp on end to the scribed line, this is similar to the end on a flat bar nail puller. When done lightly stone both sides. set this centered on the punch at the seam. and lightly tap driving in the taper will pull the punch out.
In the future use a brass set screw and only the short end of the allen wrench to tighten it. Another tip is to file cut a flat where the set screw rests with a small jewelers file.
If you can see down the set screw hole you might be able to punch any burr down some.
I was all for beating it out of there before I posted the link by the way anyone have a 460 top punch laying around?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3b84bcbb68.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Bazoo
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Sometimes a little heat from a map gas torch will do wonders. Too darned late now, sorry ;-(
It's ugly, but it would clean up with a file and some sandpaper if spun in a drill.
I checked my stash of top punches, no 460.
With my old 45's you can just punch them out from the top. This is one reason I am still using my old 45's. I am glad you got it out. I think you can make it usable again. Good luck.
Honestly not sure what I used that one with guess I’ll find out when I go to do which ever caliber lol
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IIRC the 460 was use for, among others, the 45 cal 200 grain semiwadcutter.
[QUOTE=TaylorS;4793967] anyone have a 460 top punch laying around?[/IMG]
If the inside where it contacts the boolit is OK and the rim isn't crushed,
just file the burrs off and keep using that one.