critique my shopping list, please.

[chili dipper]

Hi all,
Want to try my hand at casting. Want basic equipment to try out casting. But at the same time don't want to buy things I'll be anxious to replace if I like casting. I got the second bottle of alox even though one's included with the kit because I couldn't find out how many boolits one bottle lubes.

How's this for a starting point, total cost is $173.62?


116429 Lee Lube and Size Kit 452 Diameter

117892 Lee Commercial Bullet Mold Handles for 6-Cavity Lee Bullet Molds

286579 Lyman Lead Dipper

336035 Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold 452-200-SWC 45 ACP, 45 Auto Rim, 45 Colt (Long Colt) (452 Diameter) 200 Grain Semi-Wadcutter

466811 Lee Alox Bullet Lube 4 oz Liquid

593033 Frankford Arsenal CleanCast Lead Fluxing Compound 1 lb

645810 Lee Pro 4 20 Lb Furnace 110 Volt

867465 Lyman "Cast Bullet Handbook: 4th Edition" Book

[hoosierlogger]

One bottle of alox will do literally thousands of boolits.

Get rid of the fluxing compound and just use dry sawdust or a wooden stick to stir the pot.

[Ford SD]

Hi all,
Want to try my hand at casting. Want basic equipment to try out casting. But at the same time don't want to buy things I'll be anxious to replace if I like casting. I got the second bottle of alox even though one's included with the kit because I couldn't find out how many boolits one bottle lubes.

How's this for a starting point, total cost is $173.62?

With the the bottom pour pot you might not need the
Lead Dipper but not familiar withe the lee pot

and for a fluxing compound i have been using pcs pcs a old candle so you might not need the 593033 Frankford Arsenal CleanCast Lead Fluxing Compound

later you will want to get into a bullet lubber&sizer or look for a used one

[AZ-Stew]

The flux you propose buying will attract moisture from the air and its residue on your pot and other casting tools will rust them. This does not apply to moulds, because if you're doing the job correctly, you won't get any flux on them.

a SMALL amount of candle wax or even a wooden paint stirring stick can be used to flux the alloy. The wax will generate quite a bit of smoke, so don't do your casting in the house. SWIMBO will not be amused. You CAN burn off the wax smoke, but it may flame up considerably, causing a potential fire hazard. Don't get me wrong, wax makes a good flux. Just be careful.

You'll probably want a serving-size stainless steel spoon to scrape the dross from the top of your melt. Wal-Mart. Cheap.

If you're going to do some ladle casting, either the Lyman or the RCBS dipper is a good choice. As someone else has mentioned, with a bottom-pour pot you don't really need it. On the other hand, it's a good tool to have around.

Regards,

Stew

[chili dipper]

thanks for the advice on the flux. The lead dipper just seemed like a good tool to have around for stirring, scraping, etc. Planning to cast in the backyard.

[lylejb]

As others have said, with a bottom pour pot you don't need the dipper, however some like using a dipper better, so it's up to you.

As for the flux, I think it's a borax / borate based flux (like marvelux). There's many threads about it. You may want to search "marvelux" and do some reading.

where / what are you going to use for your lead supply? If your like most of us, it will be used / scrap wheel weights, ( or whatever lead we can get cheep or free).

If so, you will need to smelt the scrap, clean / flux, and pour into ingots. This should NOT be done in your casting pot. You want to keep your casting pot as clean as possible.

Many like cast iron "dutch oven" pots for smelting. Personally, I use a stainless pot of about the same size. The thrift store is your friend here. It doesn't have to be new. It doesn't have to be pretty. Watch the Goodwill / Salvation army or whatever thrift stores you have in your area. I picked up my pot for $2. Just make sure it's not aluminium.

You will also need a slotted spoon for skimming the clips and junk out for the smelting pot, a ladle for pouring your ingots, and some sort of mould for the ingots. Again, the thrift store is your friend. Old muffin pans work fine for ingot moulds, as long as you avoid the aluminium ones.

Lee, RCBS, and Lyman do make ingot moulds, if you feel better about making bar shaped ingots, instead of the rounds that come out of mufin pans. It doesn't really matter, your just going to melt the ingots, anyway.

Also, pick up some leather gloves and safety glasses. That lead is HOT. REAL HOT. Better safe than sorry.

It looks like your mould is the conventional lube groove version, not the micro groove tumble lube TL type. That's ok, you can tumble lube the regular types too. Read this thread about a improved version of tumble lube, that helps with the sticky / tackyness some people don't like about Lee liquid alox.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=67654

[turbo1889]

No need to get the extra bottle of Lee Liquid Alox; use what comes with the sizer die until it is almost gone and then order a jug of X-lox from White Label lube. It is the generic equivalent and is much, much cheaper oz. to oz. and comes in a huge jug that will last nearly forever.

Forget the fluxing compound. Use whatever scrap wax or reject home made lube you have handy and of course there is always saw dust. You can use almost any carbon based compound that burns at or below the temperature of molten lead to flux. Fluxing isn’t a complicated science and is basically the simplest part of casting.

[Bret4207]

Don't try and start with a 6 cavity mould. Try a single or 2 cav first till you get the hang of it.

[onondaga]

I'd recommend getting an ingot mold too. or at least use a very small shallow pan on the base of the melter under the spout. Over-pour is important to good casting and a pan or ingot will contain your over-pour neatly as you pour. The Lee Liquid Alox lasts 2 - 3k bullets per bottle, but I stretch mine a lot farther and make it a lot better with the 45-45 10 mix a lot of casters love here---me too. It dries in minutes instead of days and is a terrific blend you can easily mix. 45% lee liq alox, 45% Johnson's Paste-wax, 10% mineral spirits. Gently low heat melt the Johnsons in a pan, add the LLA stir. remove from heat, add the Mineral sririts and re-bottle when cooled. Application is the same, drying time is like 5 minutes instead of overnight and the mix doesn't smoke and stink at the range like LLA does and isn't sticky either. Finding that formula here has been a good positive, time saving experience after using LLA for decades.

A practical and dirt cheap accessory for the caster is a couple of aluminum brownie baking pans. One to drop your sprues into and one lined with a couple damp washcloths to catch your hot bullets. They keep your work contained and make cleanup a breeze..

An empty soup can is perfect to put your charred flux into and the skimmed oxides from your alloy into. I skim with a soup spoon. Don't handle that stuff!!! it is the most toxic byproduct of casting, use a new can every casting day and throw it out immediately when you are done for the day.

Cleaning molds properly and lubing them properly is the biggest problem to new casters. The milling oil Lee uses is difficult to remove. Boil in dishsoap water and rinse a couple of times thoroughly. High heat anti seize lube is easy to find at auto parts places and is a decent lube for bullet mold screws, hinges and guide pins. keep it out of the cavities. Apply it VERY sparingly where you do use it. I put it on with a small flux brush that I have cut the bristles to 1/8 inch long and kind of scrub the stuff lightly where I want it. Use the tiniest amount that will put a shine on where you want it--that is all it takes. More will drift into your cavities, then you will have to clean them again and start over or your bullets will suffer.

[HangFireW8]

Hi all,
Want to try my hand at casting. Want basic equipment to try out casting.

It looks like you are planning on Tumble Lubing a standard groove boolit. This might work OK, I don't know, but Lee makes MicroGroove boolit molds especially for tumble lube. Pan lubing is also an option.

As for 6 cavities, I don't see any need to handicap yourself with a 2 cavity mold for 45. You're going to need lots and lots of boolits to keep up with a handgun shooting habit, might as well start with a mold that will do the job for you. Just remember to preheat the mold, especially the sprue plate. The folks who break sprue plate handles on 6 Cavity molds are not following the instructions and pouring into a mostly cold mold. Also follow all the mold inspection and prep instructions.

Do you have some dial calipers?

-HF

[35remington]

If this mould is for an autoloading pistol, choose your bullet design carefully, because several designs offered by Lee are less compatible with the automatic pistol than others, due to too short nose length or being originally intended for revolvers.

Hopefully the bullet you chose is not the 200-RF. The 90348 452-200-SWC (see Lee online catalog) is closer to an autoloader compatible design. This is the design closest to the original HG 68 save for a somewhat skinnier nose profile.

[chili dipper]

thanks for all the helpful replies. I do have calipers. One of the reasons I chose this mold is it appears similar to the missouri bullet company's 200 grain swc. Which I've had good experiences with.

[chris in va]

116429 Lee Lube and Size Kit 452 Diameter

Probably not needed. Hold off.


286579 Lyman Lead Dipper

Get a Lee bottom pour furnace instead.


466811 Lee Alox Bullet Lube 4 oz Liquid

Skip it. Get some mineral spirits and Johnson's Paste Wax. Lee ALOX is very sticky and generally nasty to use.


593033 Frankford Arsenal CleanCast Lead Fluxing Compound 1 lb

Not needed.


645810 Lee Pro 4 20 Lb Furnace 110 Volt

Again, get the bottom pour.

Also you probably should start with a two hole mold as they are easier to use. I can crank out hundreds of 45's in a couple hours, more than enough for my shooting needs. Plus they come with handles for a total of $20.