Mold block temperature

[SwedeNelson]

My goal was to see if controlling and monitoring mould block temperature affected bullet quality.
This was not a exercise in speed but more a endeavor in quality. Wanted round bullets that weight
as close to the same and no frosting.

Started with my lead pot set at 700 deg. Checked with a Lyman thermometer.

Have a digital thermometer and a probe installed in the mould block, a two cavity NOE 311407 mould.
Pre-heating the mould on the rim of the pot. Started to cast at about 200 deg. on the read out.
Cast until I got complete fill out, very shiny bullets and noted the temperature – 315 to 320 deg.
Bullets started to get frosty at 390 and is well on its way at 410deg.

Cast 200 plus bullets keeping the block temperature as close to the noted temperature.
Worked the pot temperature down to about 675 to 680 deg.

Pulled 50 bullets to weigh. Low weight was 169.6Gr. high weight was 170.4Gr.
with a average weight of 170.2Gr. Checked roundness and the average came in at .00048
Used a Mitutoyo micrometer .00005”

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i80/swedenelson/NOETEMP003.jpg

Next ran the same test on a four cavity NOE 287 (7mm) 150Gr. FN. Pre-heated and cast with
the mould until I got complete fill out, very shiny bullets and noted the temperature.
This time it was 280 to 300 deg and got the pot down to about the same 675 to 680 deg.

Again pulled 50 bullets to weigh. Low weight 146.1Gr high weight 146.9Gr. with a average
weight of 146.5Gr. and roundness average came in at .0004.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i80/swedenelson/NOETEMP004.jpg

Went back and checked some of my Lyman 311299 bullets that I cast last year and would
be almost embarrassed to list the variances that I got. But lets say that 3Gr. and .002 was
not uncommon.

Now to incorporate Dale53's cooling fan into my casting routine.
The things you can learn in a year.

Swede Nelson

[a.squibload]

And they look great! Good writeup.

Makes me want a mold temp sensor, but one for each mold?
Wonder how close an infrared thermometer would read?
You could just hold the mold in front of it.
Might be worth it to help keep mold temp in a good range.

[SwedeNelson]

a.squibload

The probe slides out of its hole so you can use it in any mould.
For $28.00 you cant go wrong. Just drill the right size hole and go to town.

Swede Nelson

[Bambeno]

Sounds like your getting some very good results!

[x101airborne]

now that's the type of information that is VERY useful. WAY TO GO!! I have a tape on sensor lead that connects to a digital multimeter. Now I have a use for it!!

[RobS]

Swede:
Alloy???

[Triggerhappy]

Swede, where did you get your thermometer?

[Gelandangan]

As with RobS, I also wonder what alloy did you use for this experiment?

Average joe like us who gather WW's and range leads, usually get unknown mixture of alloy.
Thus temperature requirement VS shrinkage and shininess result will be much different.

However, I concede that with store bought known quality alloy, better and predictable results can usually produced.

[SwedeNelson]

RobS, Galandangan
WW from the tire store.
I smelt them on a turkey cooker and a dutch oven.
I think the "big secret" is to flux the heck out of them
and get your melt real clean.
I do agree your mileage will very, but this gives you a
way to see what is working with your melt.

Triggerhappy
I like the way they worked so well that I ordered a case of them.
I hope to be stocking then in about a week.

Swede Nelson

[swheeler]

Swede very good write up and most interesting! Now those would be some BR quality bullets.

[Blammer]

DOH! now it's gonna cost us extra for the mould temp hole? :D

And a themometer too!

May have to get a mould block or two retro-fitted... :)

[Blammer]

but seriously, 300° is not a terribly hot temp for a mould to be at.

[No_1]

This idea is most interesting to say the least. Incorporate this idea with a hot plate and a caster should be able to know exactly when to start casting and the end result should be good boolits from the get go.

[SwedeNelson]

no 1

Take the guesswork out of it so you get the same bullet every time.
From start to finish. I get very excited playing with this.

Swede Nelson

[bigted]

very interesting...and wheel weights to boot. i am specially smiling to find out that somebody else is smelting down their ww in a dutch oven and over a turkey cooker...small world i recon as i thought id used a pretty origanal idea...small world with plenty "new" ideas to go around.

im new to casting and i admit to wondering already about the optimum tempt for the moulds. my 500gr lyman 45 mould heats up very fast and i have to wait for a small time before i fill it again when its up to heat but till now thats been a by-guess-by-golly aproach for me.

thanks for the temp check and ill try to do this somehow myself as i really like the "perfect boolit" everytime.

[theperfessor]

I'm using a thermocouple from Auber that screws in to a 1/4-20 threaded hole. I use it in conjunction with my hotplate and PID controller to keep my test molds at 400F. Works pretty well. But I like the slip-in idea and may try that sometime.

Here's my set-up:

http://www.lasc.us/DualPIDTempControl.htm

[prs]

I also use a turkey cook'n propane high output burner, but a steel pot sized for 100# of alloy plus working room. I also flux the beegeebers out of it after it has been held at about 700 degrees for a half hour and I don't skim clips until after fluxing. Except the damned zinc threat has got me skimming slow melters early. I have a thermometer with both probe and infra-red so I may try both methods next session (soon). However, I prefer fully frosty booltis as they are so uniform and the liquid allox clings to them so well (plus it leads to fast casting and lots of boolits).

prs

[montana_charlie]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=88&pictureid=630

[geargnasher]

I'm in the 400-420* camp and light frost, myself, but those results are irrefutable. I will certainly keep this in mind when my 311-165-RD gets made, see if I can get straight WW to fill out fully with a mould that cool. I run my pot in the 650-700* range also, no need to go hotter.

Gear

[Doc Highwall]

The important thing with Swedes method is you are monitoring the mould temperature as you cast not just the starting temperature. I bought a thermocouple just for this.

[kirb]

There is and article in the Precision shooting reloading guide. BY Roger Clouser called pouring bullets for extreme accuracy. That has some very good information with mold temp and allot temp. He use alloy temp at 800 and mold temp at 375 with great success for him. It a good read really like the information from your test Swede Hope to use it soon in my bullet casting

Kirb

[geargnasher]

There is and article in the Precision shooting reloading guide. BY Roger Clouser called pouring bullets for extreme accuracy. That has some very good information with mold temp and allot temp. He use alloy temp at 800 and mold temp at 375 with great success for him. It a good read really like the information from your test Swede Hope to use it soon in my bullet casting

Kirb

What alloy?

Gear

[Ron B.]

Wow, great subject, and results!
Those are beautiful bullets; and sexxy! Lol!

We all know a consistant mould temp is very important. Personally, I like seeing a slight frost on my casted bullets. But, without a real understanding of my mould's actual temp, it's hard to be consistant. Especially between those times I need to add more lead to the pot. And, or stop to clean a crusting mould. More gadgets needed.

Thanks for the eye opener; again.
Ron

[geargnasher]

How are you getting lead between the blocks? Pressure casting and getting fins trapped in there, or dropping culls back into the pot and getting splashes?

Gear

[kirb]

What alloy?

Gear,

He dose not list his alloy in the article any where just the temps he using for mold (LBT) and melt and a 20 pound pot, and that your alloy will require small adjustment to temps.

Kirb

[geargnasher]

What alloy?

Gear,

He dose not list his alloy in the article any where just the temps he using for mold (LBT) and melt and a 20 pound pot, and that your alloy will require small adjustment to temps.

Kirb

Thanks for the reply. I was asking because at those temperatures the tin starts drossing out at an astronomical rate, I call it "flash oxidation". Actually the other elements are drossing out, too, but the tin seems to do it faster. If there isn't much tin in the alloy it's not as much of a concern.

Gear

[Doc Highwall]

GoldenRoyBoy, on his page look under Our Products, then under Our Famous Lubes and you will see the Bullplate Sprue Lube.

[SwedeNelson]

Just got in the first of our Digital Casting Thermometers.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=1090179#post1090179

Swede Nelson

[Dannix]

Swede, what's your workflow? Am I correct in assuming you're not pouring with the temperature probe still inserted?

[Dannix]

That 311-165 is due in soon, so I've been thinking about this. I have a Coverite pocket thermometer (http://www.coverite.com/accys/covr2410.html) from my RC days. I was planning on just sitting that on top of the mould. Think it would work?


http://castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=88&pictureid=630
That's one way to skin a cat! How's it working out for you?

[HDS]

Swede, what's your workflow? Am I correct in assuming you're not pouring with the temperature probe still inserted?

I would also like to know this, can you keep it in all the time? I thought that was the case tbh.

[Doc Highwall]

HDS, Swede has a hole drilled into the mould for the probe to be used while casting. You have the option for the hole to be drilled for the probe at no charge when you buy one of his moulds.

[MtGun44]

How about this?

http://www.healthbuys.com/Maverick-Digital-Barbeque-Remote-Thermometer/M/B000P895XA.htm

Bill

[HDS]

HDS, Swede has a hole drilled into the mould for the probe to be used while casting. You have the option for the hole to be drilled for the probe at no charge when you buy one of his moulds.

Thanks for clarifying! I figured as much but wasn't sure.

I assume can also this with other molds, just plug the probe in another block thats been drilled for it (thinking about the mihec brass mold group buy I am in).

[cbrick]

How about this? Bill

I find it very confusing when someone posts links for the purpose of undercutting one of our Vendor Sponsors just to save a buck or two.

Swedes price is close to the link you posted PLUS Swede sends the proper size drill bit along with the digital thermometer, the link you posted does not so the price is even closer.

Maybe its just me but I think our Vendor Sponsors should be supported, not do whatever we can to undercut them and save a buck.

Ok, rant over.

Rick

[DWM]

Hi Nelson did you get my PM?

Daniel